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3D-Printed Objects

maceffects

Well-known member
I don't like hijacking maceffects, but I have a couple from a scrapped centris 610...

No worries, these are probably a better fit for his machine as they are pre-owned and have that "used" look which would make the fact that one foot is different less noticeable. 

 

Daniël

Well-known member
I don't like hijacking maceffects, but I have a couple from a scrapped centris 610...

-pic-
If shipping to the Netherlands isn't too crazy, I'm definitely interested :)  

Given you mentioned a scrapped 610, do you happen to have the spare middle blank bezel or CD-ROM bezel for that same computer too, that you might part with?

 

MarNo84

Well-known member
Hi,

sadly I couldn't find my fine measurement tools :( I just tried my best on some pictures :/ maybe someone also has a CC and could make it much better than I did ;)

View attachment 29176

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Hmm I just want to ask again ;)  does anyone every tried to recreate the Macintosh Color Classic front badges/logos? Unfortunately I lost my small logo/badge after I measured it :/

 

Jinnai

Well-known member
If shipping to the Netherlands isn't too crazy, I'm definitely interested :)  

Given you mentioned a scrapped 610, do you happen to have the spare middle blank bezel or CD-ROM bezel for that same computer too, that you might part with?
Putting in a random address in the Netherlands returns an estimated shipping cost for up to a pound of $23.28 USD. Its $13 if I select "large envelope" but... especially with a bezel, an envelope would be impossible.

 

Daniël

Well-known member
Putting in a random address in the Netherlands returns an estimated shipping cost for up to a pound of $23.28 USD. Its $13 if I select "large envelope" but... especially with a bezel, an envelope would be impossible.
At that shipping price, I'm definitely interested, feel free to shoot me a DM.

 

jessenator

Well-known member
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4494947

Finished the flip-out foot for the Dekstop PCI Power Mac line. My 7200's ...let's just say I underestimated just how brittle these plastics can be. I thought I was being gentle, but apparently that wasn't gentle enough, so I mocked this up last weekend.

Hmm I just want to ask again ;)  does anyone every tried to recreate the Macintosh Color Classic front badges/logos? Unfortunately I lost my small logo/badge after I measured it :/
Just curious, MarNo84, you're looking for just the plastic piece itself, right? I haven't seen anything (at least on the consumer level) that can do the 3D object printing and the screen printed text. I think the best one could hope for is a 3d print, with a clear printed label, similar to what Maceffects did for his SE/30 clear case purchasers— i.e. a clear label set in Apple Garamond. 

As far as making an STL. I could probably do it, but this is one of those pieces I'd need to have in-hand—a bit impractical in the current climate :/  When I duplicate parts I constantly take measurements with my micrometer. I'm not saying all of this this to completely put the idea down, but just expose the reality, if you haven't already been thinking about that yourself.

The pain points are really the curve/bevel on the bottom. Another is the shape—that gentle curve across the face of it— getting the resolution on that will be a tall order for the average consumer printer. I'd really need to have it in-hand to be able to take the subtle measurements and refer back to it, without having to have the back-and-forth of camera angles, etc.

Finally, the color. Unless you don't mind white or a gray that doesn't quite match, it's going to be very tough, nigh impossible, to color match it.

 
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jessenator

Well-known member
A couple of people asked about these specifically, in reference to my adventures in CRT swapping land, so I finally got them up on Thingiverse: trim pot adjustment tips. These are long enough that one could potentially use them freehand, but are also designed to fit into 4mm hexagonal toolkit driver handles. 
HCs09tih.jpg.fa89db03edc1cb5099b39d1eea77efc2.jpg

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4499563

FYI, on my analog board, most of the trim pots the flat blade worked fine, but the width coil adjustment needed the 2.5mm hex.

 
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MarNo84

Well-known member
...

Just curious, MarNo84, you're looking for just the plastic piece itself, right? I haven't seen anything (at least on the consumer level) that can do the 3D object printing and the screen printed text. I think the best one could hope for is a 3d print, with a clear printed label, similar to what Maceffects did for his SE/30 clear case purchasers— i.e. a clear label set in Apple Garamond. 

As far as making an STL. I could probably do it, but this is one of those pieces I'd need to have in-hand—a bit impractical in the current climate :/  When I duplicate parts I constantly take measurements with my micrometer. I'm not saying all of this this to completely put the idea down, but just expose the reality, if you haven't already been thinking about that yourself.

The pain points are really the curve/bevel on the bottom. Another is the shape—that gentle curve across the face of it— getting the resolution on that will be a tall order for the average consumer printer. I'd really need to have it in-hand to be able to take the subtle measurements and refer back to it, without having to have the back-and-forth of camera angles, etc.

Finally, the color. Unless you don't mind white or a gray that doesn't quite match, it's going to be very tough, nigh impossible, to color match it.
Well to be true.. I would just need the badge/part in it's shaped form - even without the printing. I know it's a hard level 3d printing every detail and especially these secure points and curved shape - I would be ok with a little afterwork, grinding and sanding. My printer is capable printing very small and round structures - it's worth a try. If I would have a spare logo plastic, I would mail it to you...but actually there is no spare case to take it from :/

 

PotatoFi

Well-known member
I've created some 3D printed "ROM Clips" that hold a Mac ROM-inator II in place on the SE/30. More info (and discussion) here:




 

markyb86

Well-known member
I’ve finally finished this model after two years of working on it 7/18/18 is the date in fusion360!

Macintosh Quadra 700 micro

for the pi zero

https://p3d.in/u/zero82386

This final version just needs 4 M2 2.5x3 knurled nuts and 4 M2 screws to hold your board in place.

Optionally you might want an LED and a switch so you can use the button(s).

I have not come up with a good solution to mount the lid, however I painted mine and it fits snug. Thinking about adding magnets.

The case has room for the board to sit flush even if you soldered headers on. I even have included room for a 12-15mm tiny fan on the back.

9D337C1F-A856-4D5E-BB3E-63B13D1753A2.pngA696F32A-66BA-4873-B2EE-5ECFE9E57F37.jpeg

 
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olePigeon

Well-known member
View attachment LaserWriter Paper Stop.stl.zip

Made a stopper plate for the original LaserWriter / Plus paper cassette (works in letter/A4 cassette and legal cassette.)  I got a legal paper cassette for my LaserWriter, but it was missing the stop plate for the smaller page sizes.  So I managed to track down the apparently only image of one from an eBay listing, and used that as a reference image.  Then created a new one in Sketchup.  Printed it out on a Dremel 3D printer.

Reference:

orig.jpg

3D image:

00.png

Stopper in action:

01.JPG02.JPG03.JPG

 

Merk

New member
These are great! Does anyone have models for a Performa 6400 comm slot cover and the front bezel snaps?
 

thanks!

 

jessenator

Well-known member
I have 3d-printed a couple of different versions but it's not the same.
Sorry cross-quote from the SE/30 switch thread...

I'd like to see a different version from this if you know of one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2579509

I've been looking at this and photos of a real one and there are some ...interesting liberties taken, which I don't understand. I think some might be due to the brittle nature of PLA, but with something like nylon, a print closer to the actual thing might work. Stronger, far less brittle as well. Also less stinky than ABS.

Referencing that one linked, the actual "pins" going to the buttons on the logic board are thicker and seemed to be far too long. And as far as one print orientation being better, I found them equally awful with PLA, anyway. They never seemed to hit the mark. I'd ask someone in the States to borrow one so I could make a 1:1, but I haven't quite finished tidying up this one, and I feel embarrassed to again have someone loan me a part, while the first isn't complete*.

Something like the programmer switch would be bread & butter simple for me to get 1:1, far easier than the CC badge below  :/  probably because I'm not formally trained in solid modeling.

*Thanks to @ian128K I've got a Colour Classic front badge STL nearly ready, @MarNo84 ! : I just need to thicken the "legs" a bit and it should be 100% (you'd really need a .2mm nozzle and z motor gear reducers to do a part like this justice—something finer than bog standard, anyway.) https://imgur.com/a/PS7dFGh I imagine, with just a touch of paint it wouldn't look out of place with the standard .4mm nozzle print/ as-is. The gear reducer/finer layer height would really tighten up that front/fascia curvature.

ObsCOt4.png.8df6ffac4060ec6c3d6e975885d3ab8d.png


Also, due to said informal training (I think parallel training is a better way to describe it, because I have 3d modeling training, just not for "engineering" purposes, i.e. I don't know how to use SolidWorks), I have just a few non-manifold faces, but they don't effect the final print that I can detect, so I don't care too much at this point.

 

aeberbach

Well-known member
The one you linked is the one I printed. When I say "not the same" I mean it works fine, just doesn't look right. Even in highest detail in Prusa PLA Vanilla White you still see obvious layers. I have some hope with my new roll of ASA filament (much tougher apparently and acetone-smoothable) but since it is a bit toxic to print in the room where you work all day I am waiting for some time to move the printer.

 
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MarNo84

Well-known member
...

*Thanks to @ian128K I've got a Colour Classic front badge STL nearly ready, @MarNo84 ! : I just need to thicken the "legs" a bit and it should be 100% (you'd really need a .2mm nozzle and z motor gear reducers to do a part like this justice—something finer than bog standard, anyway.) https://imgur.com/a/PS7dFGh I imagine, with just a touch of paint it wouldn't look out of place with the standard .4mm nozzle print/ as-is. The gear reducer/finer layer height would really tighten up that front/fascia curvature.



Also, due to said informal training (I think parallel training is a better way to describe it, because I have 3d modeling training, just not for "engineering" purposes, i.e. I don't know how to use SolidWorks), I have just a few non-manifold faces, but they don't effect the final print that I can detect, so I don't care too much at this point.
Amazing :D  - great job done here! is there a final or "beta" file available yet? ;)  I would like to test out my printer - especially with some clear or translucent PLA/material :D  

 

redruM69

Active member
@alaska360:

Your Mac Portable battery v3.0 model has a couple of minor errors that can cause slicing issues, and a weak print.  2 of the 4 corners on your outer box have disconnected shells, which caused those 2 corners to print as if they are free standing.
I fixed it.  STL download below.

error in model.jpg

View attachment portabattery30(FIXED).stl

 
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aeberbach

Well-known member
Would this be from Fusion 360 perhaps? I absolutely hate that the default is not “join” rather than “new body” when possible...

 
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