128 pin PGA sockets for 68030s that don't suck?

[obsolete]

Like most people it seems, at least in the US, I used the HWS4514 socket from Phoenix Enterprises for the 68030 on my Reloaded board, because it's under $5 with no minimum order quantity. I have to say, though, I'm not very satisfied with it. The force required to insert and remove the CPU in that socket is absurdly high; many times greater than the original socket on my other SE/30 board.

The other readily available option is the Mill-Max 510-43-128-13-041001 on Digi-Key for $30 apiece. At that price, it had better be a joy to use, but I'd rather find a more affordable option.

So, does anyone have a source for PGA-128 sockets that they actually like, or should I just resort to cutting and soldering single-row machine pin header strips to the board?

 

[zigzagjoe]

Like most people it seems, at least in the US, I used the HWS4514 socket from Phoenix Enterprises for the 68030 on my Reloaded board, because it's under $5 with no minimum order quantity. I have to say, though, I'm not very satisfied with it. The force required to insert and remove the CPU in that socket is absurdly high; many times greater than the original socket on my other SE/30 board.

The other readily available option is the Mill-Max 510-43-128-13-041001 on Digi-Key for $30 apiece. At that price, it had better be a joy to use, but I'd rather find a more affordable option.

So, does anyone have a source for PGA-128 sockets that they actually like, or should I just resort to cutting and soldering single-row machine pin header strips to the board?

I've found all modern PGA sockets with the machine pin receptacles to be similar: I've tried mil-max, souriau, phoenix enterprises, and samtec. I don't think you're going to find a different design like the original SE/30 socket these days. Having done the trick with the machine pin headers, it ends up with the same or worse resistance than the premade sockets since they use the same pins in both.

I would recommend getting an extractor like this or the daystar one. I personally use an extra-wide spudger to lever one side out, using the PDS as a fulcrum, then once that side is free, gentle wiggling by hand will work it out of the rest.

 

[Melkhior]

You could always make your own

Also, Preci-Dip 510-87-128-13-041101 is in stock at Mouser (France) and much less expensive than the Mill-Max. I haven't tried one, but the 510-83-068-10-061101 was fine for the '881/'882 in my PDS adapter.

 

[Bolle]

You could always make your own

That's not going to be cheap either, getting those machined socket pins in bulk is absurdly expensive too.

 

[Melkhior]

That's not going to be cheap either, getting those machined socket pins in bulk is absurdly expensive too.

Paid €3.27 for 300 (allegedly, didn't count them...) on AliExpress. But yes, preci-dip is likely a better/easier option for 'standard' sockets - IMHO the interest lie more in things like the 'V' version of the 68040 in PGA package, whose socket is not listed in preci-dip's list of pin patterns.

 

[JC8080]

I have used these ones from eBay and have been happy with them, though I haven't tried any of the others so I can't do a comparison.

 

[obsolete]

Thanks for all the info everyone. ZZJ, since you mentioned extractors, you reminded me to post about the 3D-printed one I've been using. Do you think gradually levering the chip out of the socket is easier on the board, though? I was pretty uncomfortable with how much my reloaded board was bending when pulling the 68030 out of its Phoenix socket.

I had another idea this morning--instead of cutting up machine pin header strips, what about dual-wipe SIP sockets? Or is that just asking for trouble?

 

[zigzagjoe]

Thanks for all the info everyone. ZZJ, since you mentioned extractors, you reminded me to post about the 3D-printed one I've been using. Do you think gradually levering the chip out of the socket is easier on the board, though? I was pretty uncomfortable with how much my reloaded board was bending when pulling the 68030 out of its Phoenix socket.

I had another idea this morning--instead of cutting up machine pin header strips, what about dual-wipe SIP sockets? Or is that just asking for trouble?

I wouldn't DIY it, especially with the loose pin receptacles. I used two types of them on my socket carrera board and both were hellish and had issues even with tools to assist in alignment.

I've never been overly concerned by the force taken to remove from the machine pin type sockets. It hasn't been enough that the board has noticeably been warping. To be more clear, I typically just partially free one side then gently wiggle it to free the other. Or, put a finger over the glue and use that finger as the fulcrum for a tool to free the other side.

 

[JC8080]

This is probably not a recommended method, but I use a small screwdriver to pry the chip up between the socket and the chip I do this with a slight twist of the screwdriver, and I do it in multiple small steps. I probably go back and forth between sides 15 or 20 times. When the pins are close to coming out I am very controlled with the twist of the screwdriver so when the pins let go I don't accidentally lift that side too high, bending pins.

 

[aeberbach]

This is probably not a recommended method, but I use a small screwdriver to pry the chip up between the socket and the chip I do this with a slight twist of the screwdriver, and I do it in multiple small steps. I probably go back and forth between sides 15 or 20 times. When the pins are close to coming out I am very controlled with the twist of the screwdriver so when the pins let go I don't accidentally lift that side too high, bending pins.

I also always lever up with a screwdriver inserted under the chip. The official chip remover looked like a tiny rake, intended for inserting under the PGA and levering upwards, so if I can't get one of those the screwdriver, carefully applied, is probably the next best thing.
Beware the cheap machine pin socket! There are many products that look like machine pin sockets available but they only look like the sockets from AMP/Tyco/Molex etc. which are expensive because they're designed by actual engineers and produced on machines with tolerances and they are tested, all inconvenient and expensive steps that dodgy manufacturers have learned to avoid.
I recently discarded a batch of 20 40-pin sockets. The first 4 I used had become so loose after about 4 insertions that the chips were almost falling out. It really does pay to buy sockets that have a published datasheet, and actually conform to that datasheet on matters of insertion force, cycles, construction materials etc. Or else the bargain socket will likely end up causing you more trouble than if you had soldered the chip direct.

 

[rickrob]

To

I have used these ones from eBay and have been happy with them, though I haven't tried any of the others so I can't do a comparison.

I used those too, no issues with them