@Jockelill I do have some spare 'kits' (populated board + connectors + switch ready to solder) in France I could let go, PM me. You probably should double-check the GitHub design first to make sure all is OK with you (the soft-power circuit is as yet unconfirmed to work, it's dead motherboard-side on my IIci).
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IIci etc. ATX to 10pin Adapter
- Thread starter Phipli
- Start date
This is a great project. I’m just looking at these adapter boards and wondering how they get used inside the case.
Do you open the original PSU, gut it, insert a new ATX one, and somehow get the connector in place where the existing one was? Or do you scrap the old PSU altogether and just plug this into the socket on the board, with an ATX fan wangled either into the case or left external?
Or is this not meant for anything besides bench testing?
Do you open the original PSU, gut it, insert a new ATX one, and somehow get the connector in place where the existing one was? Or do you scrap the old PSU altogether and just plug this into the socket on the board, with an ATX fan wangled either into the case or left external?
Or is this not meant for anything besides bench testing?
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No definitive answer really. Bench, or replace the guts, or arrange a new mounting setup.
Most likely you'd replace the guts of the existing PSU. You could either cut the opening larger and run a ATX lead from a small PSU inside the original PSU housing. Or you could make a 5x2 extension lead. Or you could use the original connector, desolder it and solder it's wires to this board, so that it mounts exactly as before, and you plug the ATX to the PSU end.
It depends what suits you best. I've not built one into something yet. Likely I will in the next few weeks, but I need to research what PSUs I want to use in my setup.
I guess I need to take an old PSU apart to see how it looks on the inside. Can this adapter board and 2x5 connector fit where the 2x5 connector so on the original?
I doubt it. But like I said, you could just wire the original connector into it.
Oh man! Be careful everyone. @MrFahrenheit noticed that the gerber files are incorrect. The transistor is rotated 180 degrees. I think they fixed the error when I had my board made, but I suggest you check your boards.
Mine was originally going to look like this:
Mine was originally going to look like this:
MrFahrenheit's changes we're rolled into the github at the time. It isn't a transistor. It isn't the gerber that was rotated, it was the pick and place file.
When did you pull down the files?
That little fellow is an inverter, the soft power signal on PCs is inverted compared to old macs so you need to flip it so that the computer doesn't power on /unless/ you're pressing the button!
Glad they spotted. The files should be updated now, JLC also recently changed their formatting and didn't really deal with it very well. They just told people that things were formatted incorrectly, things that they had accepted a week before with no issue.
UK based folks, I have some spare green boards if anyone wants some.
Bare board £1+P&P
Board with SMD components fitted : £3+P&P
I only have a small number of the SMD chips left so there aren't many of those, but I have more bare boards than planned. You'll need to source your own connectors as I don't have any spares.
Postage at cost, which should be about a pound for Royal Mail second class.
Bare board £1+P&P
Board with SMD components fitted : £3+P&P
I only have a small number of the SMD chips left so there aren't many of those, but I have more bare boards than planned. You'll need to source your own connectors as I don't have any spares.
Postage at cost, which should be about a pound for Royal Mail second class.
I've had that issue a lot with JLCPCB, the rotation in the pick'n'place file is predicated on the original orientation of the footprint. If the one from your tool is different from the one JLCPCB uses, chaos ensues. I have designs where nearly everything not a passive has to be re-oriented in the website... Now I just had some very explicit '1' or such markings where JLCPCB's pink dots are supposed to go, makes things easier.
Which I realize I didn't do for the 1G04 in my own version of the adapter. BTW, I've had a report soft-power works, so both position of the switch are OK (soft-power or always-on).
If anyone wants to build a bunch of these, and needs at least 10 of the ATX connectors, I have 50 of the "wrong type" which I sourced before finding out the PCBs needed to be adjusted for them. I'm told the PCB design on GitHub currently has spacing for both types of connectors in the same design, but I haven't verified this myself (I ordered the old style).
The initial project had the ATX holes in a specific spacing, and quoted a particular ATX connector part. I was assisted in obtaining more affordable parts, which included an ATX connector that had spacing which wasn't the same as the original design (of which I had pre-assembled PCBs coming for). So instead of re-ordering a batch of PCBs, I instead ordered different connectors to fit the PCBs I already had in production with JLCPCB.
So I have a box full of the ATX connectors I cannot use. If anyone wants at least 10, I'd be happy to drop some in the mail to you (US only) for $8 USD including shipping costs. If anyone wants all 50, I'll sell at my cost plus shipping. DM me.
The initial project had the ATX holes in a specific spacing, and quoted a particular ATX connector part. I was assisted in obtaining more affordable parts, which included an ATX connector that had spacing which wasn't the same as the original design (of which I had pre-assembled PCBs coming for). So instead of re-ordering a batch of PCBs, I instead ordered different connectors to fit the PCBs I already had in production with JLCPCB.
So I have a box full of the ATX connectors I cannot use. If anyone wants at least 10, I'd be happy to drop some in the mail to you (US only) for $8 USD including shipping costs. If anyone wants all 50, I'll sell at my cost plus shipping. DM me.
There are two designs on the github, you need to select the "alternative" named design for the Chinese 2x10 connectors.
They are confirmed to fit.
Attachments
It's good practice
I hand soldered mine.
I'm considering organizing a group soldering party to build a few of these. Could somebody please help catch me up on differences between the different versions? Is this correct:
Original Version by George Rudolf - https://github.com/GeorgeRudolf/OldMacATX
Original Version by George Rudolf - https://github.com/GeorgeRudolf/OldMacATX
- two-layer PCB
- 0805 SMD components
- uses Mac's soft-power on circuit
- "alternate" PCB version supports real Molex 10x2 connector or low-cost Chinese 10x2 connector
- four-layer PCB
- 0603 SMD components
- has a switch to select between Mac's soft-power circuit or always-on behavior
- has a power-good LED
- 10x2 connector support???
