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  1. That’s not mold, it’s corrosion and other byproducts of the leaking batteries. It can (possibly) be repaired, but will take a lot more than simple cleaning.
  2. I’d be interested in this too. Not least because I enjoy stuffing and soldering PCBs.
  3. No, not as far as I know. The logic board was redesigned for the ROM03 machines, so you can't put a ROM3 on a ROM0/1 board, or vice versa.
  4. I really don't understand this. There's a limited amount of Lisa hardware in the world. Not all of it can feasibly be refurbished. If you'd rather do your own repair and refurbishment, you should! But why call this garbage? I've never paid to have an old computer repaired, nor do I plan to. A big part of the fun of the hobby for me is fixing things. I'm a hardware and software engineer by profession, and I love working on these old machines in my spare time. Usually fixing means repairing board damage, replacing capacitors, tracking down bad components and replacing them, etc. In some case
  5. As a hardware engineer myself, those prices don’t seem outrageous. They’re going to sell hardly any of them in the scheme of things. And I’m sure they’ve spent countless hours doing the engineering for them. I’m just excited to see somebody doing something so cool for a machine that is a small niche in the niche that is retrocomputing. (My own Lisa is a 2/10 in great, working shape.)
  6. This is super cool. Sapient Technologies (Todd Meyer) has announced that they're going to be making new replacements for several Lisa boards in partnership with other Lisa enthusiasts: http://www.callapple.org/hardware/the-apple-lisa-hardware-conservation-project/ I think this is especially great news for Lisa 2/5 owners since so many of those have been severely damaged by leaking batteries.
  7. He’s working on more right now. I’m on his email list, and he sent out an update a few days ago.
  8. I'm interested in the 128K with "Macintosh 128K" badge (ie. second-generation 128K) if we can put together a pool of people buying.
  9. Replacing all the caps, the 24V (28V) regulator U1, and Q5 on the video board did the trick. Seems to be running beautifully now: So, still on my list is the serial number issue, as well as replacing the foam pads in the keyboard. Thanks so much for the help here!
  10. Thanks for the advice, Rick. I don't see a screen mod transformer. As I understand it, it would normally be affixed to the side of the card cage to the right of the CRT. There's nothing there, nor any evidence that it was once there. Here's a photo I just took: (The video board is missing and the CRT wires floating because I unsoldered them to remove the board. Haven't finished recapping it yet.) Also the seals on the video board adjustment pots were intact when I opened the machine up. I broke them to adjust the width and height.
  11. Thanks everyone. The adjustment wouldn't take the width far enough to fill the screen. It seems like a good idea to recap the video board at the very least, so I've got it out and am doing just that. I'll troubleshoot and fix the deflection issue after recapping.
  12. I recently got my hands on a Lisa 2/10 in amazing cosmetic condition, but non-working. I repaired the power supply by recapping it and replacing the transformer that's part of the 5V standby and 18V power supply, which was bad. I also disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the floppy disk load mechanism which was completely seized by hardened lubricant. Anyway, after doing those two things, the machine boots and runs really well! The only remaining (hardware) problem seems to be incorrect deflection on the CRT. The image is a little too narrow horizontally, and a little too tall vertically,
  13. A little more information: I measured the voltages coming out of the power supply. With the logic board connected (but floppy and HDD disconnected entirely), the voltages are around 11.2V and 2.2V. With the logic board disconnected, the 5V rail is about where it should be ~4.9V. This seems to suggest that either the logic board is drawing too much current pulling the 5V rail down, or the power supply is sagging under a normal load. I haven't measured current drawn by the logic board yet, but will do that when I get my hands on a schematic. Any common/obvious causes of a low 5V rail on a C
  14. I have a Mac Classic II that I picked up for next to nothing recently. When I power it on, the fan starts up, but the screen stays blank. The floppy drive makes a little noise every few seconds. Otherwise, nothing happens. My first thought was bad caps, as I know that's a common problem in these. The caps on the logic board didn't show any obvious signs of leaking (no pooled electrolyte, no obvious corrosion of surrounding pads and component leads). I replaced the capacitors with new ones anyway. I also reheated the solder joints for the connectors and wires on the analog board. (I'm not s
  15. I never did get the Mac Plus to boot from the SCSI2SD. I saw something regarding Mac Plus ROMs prior to version 3 having a bug where drives that issue unit attention on power up will cause the Mac to go into a reset loop and fail to boot. (See http://www.jagshouse.com/plusrom.html).The SCSI2SD configuration tool includes an option to enable/disable unit attention, but changing that setting didn't seem to make any difference on my Mac Plus. For what it's worth, the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode works great with my Plus. Boots just fine.
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