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About beachycove

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  1. It's great to see that those machines have found a good home. Only a dozen or so more machines left to go.... Psst: Anyone want an AWS 9150?
  2. Well I figure I can get the RAM off reasonably easily, as I do have a hot air station and am not a complete neophyte in soldering terms. I have zero conception how to examine the address and data bus, though.... There I be an absolute beginner. My question was really just, would it boot if I removed all the onboard RAM? The idea was to remove an obvious potential problem in order to see if the board is otherwise viable. 4MB is not a big loss, and then if I wanted to, I could solder 4MB back on. Otherwise, I have some 32MB chips that would make that missing 4mb moot. Alt
  3. I have an LC520 logic board that gives the chimes of death no matter what is connected to it. I am not ultra-keen to throw it out, as it is probably worth real money in the open market as a Color Classic upgrade, assuming it could be made to work. Now, of course other problems could be the explanation, but my suspicion is that the onboard RAM is bad. What would happen if I were to remove it? Could that potentially "fix" the board?
  4. It is a different machine altogether with an LC 520, LC550 (Color Classic II) or LC575 (Color Classic Mystic) board inside. Unfortunately, a stock Color Classic is almost unusable. Basically, the only thing the original logic board really is good for is troubleshooting the hard drive with utilities that expect the thing to be stock. As has been said, it is hard to understand why Apple manufactured and marketed such crap. There were alternatives, and they weren’t that much more expensive to make and sell.
  5. There is some interesting information (in French) here: https://forums.macg.co/threads/batterie-pour-powerbook-140-180.1291284/ Scroll down and the Duo battery comes up. Google translate is your friend (assuming that your high school French teacher was not).
  6. Does the 540 have a reset button on the back?
  7. Have you taken out the main battery?
  8. There are specific battery reconditioning utilities that can significantly extend the runtime and presumably the life of NiMh cells. Years ago, I managed to revive almost dead batteries (like 30 seconds of runtime) so that they would give an hour or an hour and a half of runtime using these utilities; that battery in your 2300 was one of them. The utilities worked best alongside of freezing the things (physically, as in a freezer or leaving in an unheated space overnight) beforehand, which has an effect on crystals that form in old cells. You just let the thing thaw for a day or so, which (one
  9. I can’t remember what cells I used when I did the duo battery years ago, but if I am not mistaken, it was simply tabbed NiMh AAs. I soldered them together myself, which turned out to be a mistake, as the heat damages the cells (it was my first attempt, followed closely by a 540c battery). The proper way is a quick, more or less instantaneous weld. Unless you have the equipment, it’s unrealistic to think you can do this yourself. So buying battery packs that are already made up and making minimal modifications by adding the fuses etc to duplicate what you find in the battery once opened seems t
  10. The 7100 has a 50 pin scsi drive. There are adapters for more modern spinning SCSI drives, including Nubus to 68-pin or simple plug in adapters, or you can indeed go SCSI2SD. 1 GB is likely plenty. The 636 has some sort of early IDE drive specification, but again doesn't really need the capacities available in the later ATA drives (80GB or whatever), nor the capacities of solid state for that matter. I think I'd pop in a Compact Flash adapter and a 1 or 2 GB CF card if I really, really wanted a solid state conversion in this machine. Neither are going to give you much b
  11. I think a base fan would most easily connect to the molex connector on one of the drives. If you aren’t going to be doing much gaming, though, the 7500 will be perfectly happy without a fan. My kids did manage to cook a fanless Radeon 7500 in a Cube years ago while gaming (I think it was endless Harry Potter and the something or other) but all the same, it ran for a couple of years in intensive use by adolescents, and the identical replacement card is still going strong. Not that the latter has had such frequent or heavy use, mind.
  12. I’ll have to take the case apart and examine the board to see if there is any obvious sign of capacitor trouble. I do seem to recall that there are electrolytics in the Wallstreet — there are on the charge board, at any rate — so I will disassemble the thing in the next wee while to see what can be seen. My plan is minimally to recap a charge board, refashion a backup battery (I have had the requisite six Panasonic VL2330s for ages, just haven’t gotten around to doing anything with them), and transplant the two into the working unit. My Wallstreet is one of my favourite machines;
  13. My old faithful Wallstreet II (266mhz) has been languishing with a failing hard drive and a failing display (a rectangle of artifacts covering about 1/3 of the screen), so it being the Christmas holidays and me having some time on my hands, I decided today to do some work on the machine today. I have replaced the 40GB drive with a 30GB that I had on hand, and am currently imaging the old hard drive for installation on the new (transplanted it into a Pismo, booted in FireWire Target mode, and am doing the imaging on a G4). I hope it continues to spin long enough to recover all my ol
  14. One of the things that interests me about this thread and the baking of PowerBook screens (!) is that it pretty much confirms the moisture theory surrounding tunnel syndrome. So here’s a question: has anyone witnessed tunnel syndrome on a machine that has been kept in a desert environment, e.g., in the SW USA or the like? I once scrapped a Duo 280 (greyscale) because of the screen problem. I am regretting it now.
  15. If you could find the James Wang of the AV Macs FAQ (could well still be active), e.g. at Berkeley, which is where he was at the time of the FAQ, you could try a direct approach by email or — shudder — a letter in the post!
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