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    • Thanks for the tip on the logic board molex connector. However, I normally have the computer set normally when I reinstall the logic board, so I can't really put my hand below the logic board.   As for the anode cap, I always thought you could simply squeeze the fingers holding it in place from the outside. Guess I was wrong, though.   Tried powering up the Classic today and it was acting up again. I was able to get it to a flashing question mark icon ... hard drive doesn't seem to spin up. (I'm assuming it isn't getting the proper voltage.) On a couple of tries the machine chimed multiple times, one try it chimed probably 5-6 times. Also noticed the pattern slowly goes away. Unlike last night, I couldn't get it past the flashing question mark icon.   Guess I'm going to have to have the analog board recapped.  I knew it was just a matter of time though... I've heard that the Classic/Classic II are notorious for having bad caps, although any old computer isn't immune.   I have a video of the behavior, but it's shaky.
    • I was curious about this as well: Does anyone know if the neck tube connections for the 5155's CRT are the same as, say, a 10ATY4N or other monitor used in pre-Type-B (i.e. non-Classic later and Classic II tubes)?   Replacement CRTs come up every now and then. I know that a neckboard and yoke from an original, say, SE/30 would be necessary to drive the tube, but as long as the neck board connector is the same I might pick one up next time I see one.
    • When pushing those molex connectors back into the analog board, a good idea is to put opposite pressure from the other side of the board. This keeps the board stiff and it doesn't bend away from you when you press the connector into the socket. This makes it a lot easier to not use so much force from one side.   Also, the anode cap is not hard to remove at all. As long as you have discharged it (as you stated you will), you can then get long, thin needle nose pliers under there, pinch together the metal fingers that are holding it in place, and lift up. The biggest benefit to the Mac ones is they are clear, and you can somewhat see what is going on under there.
    • Not as far as I can see, no—this will run quite cheerfully on a 68000 without any MMU at all, it's only a little bit more complicated than CP/M.  None of the assembly code seems to do anything special with distant addresses, certainly (not that I really know what I'm talking about).  So any 68k compiler ought to do, I think.  The one I'm using at the moment is insanely basic, to be honest.   I'm especially amused that the linker has no way to suppress the GEMDOS executable header in outputs so all the other tooling just works around the fact that things like the file with the master copy of the boot sector have a GEMDOS executable header on them, and it just ... doesn't copy the first 28 bytes.  This is all pretty spartan.   I'm very grateful for the Atari-targeted tools (i.e. disassembler) that I've got here, which are making this much easier!
    • I already know to discharge it at the anode cap. I've heard most CRTs from this era (should say the driving circuitry) are pretty good about discharging the CRT itself, but never a good idea to rely on that. When reinstalling the logic board in this machine, I was careful to keep my hands in the bottom part of the machine. The biggest problem for me is plugging in the molex plug coming from the analog board... sometimes I have to put a little bit of force on it to get it to snap into place properly, which makes me worry whether I'm putting too much force on the connector/board. As for the floppy/hard drive connectors, I've found that I can pull the logic board out and feed the cables through the bottom of the frame. Usually there's just enough slack in there that I can plug them in and slide the logic board back into its proper place. But, of course, the Classic has a smaller logic board and is built different from the earlier models.   That sucks about accidentally breaking the neck. That would be my worst nightmare... accidentally breaking the neck and hearing the hissing.  These old Macs are extremely rare around here (at least for a decent price) so it took a couple years just to find this one. Plus, its CRT is in really good condition. It appears to have been a low-hours machine. Will do. I'm assuming the big cable going to the CRT is the high-voltage one that goes to the anode cap? Also, isn't there a ground screw on one of the CRT mounts that must be removed?   Thanks everyone for your replies. This is making me extremely nervous, because I'm afraid I may use a little too much force or may accidentally jostle something wrong and snap! hiss! It might be a while before I'm able to actually get the analog board recapped.