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Found 132 results

  1. I've been working on a new video focused on SE and SE/30 fan upgrades over the last month and a half. I don't have any machines with the old squirrel cage fan, but I am aware many SE owners are. I want to add info in my video for those folks. I've searched this forum for "squirrel cage" and read through a lot of posts, but no one has provided a step-by-step upgrade with photos. Uniserver said that in his opinion it was the best fan because it moves a lot of air and is quiet, although he admits that it's noisy when dirty; and the reality is fans get dirty faster than you think. The boxer fans in contrast remain about the same in volume even with a bit of crud on them. Plus, the boxer fans are sold today whereas the squirrel cage fan is not. Anyway, I want to confirm with those of you who have done this squirrel-to-boxer fan upgrade how you did it. Specifically, if all you have is an older SE analog board with the squirrel cage fan, removing that fan means you have no metal bracket for mounting a replacement 60mm fan. (Newer analog boards had 60mm boxer fans.) I did find the following post: But "Velcro"? Really? Seems like it would wobble around after a while. In any case, I'd love to see a photo of that. Another post I found was this: But that is only for a 50x20mm fan, which I personally would not use because it's too small. Even most 60mm fans are rather small in terms of their airflow. Anything smaller would either not move much air at all or need to ramp up the rpms and be noisy to move sufficient air. If anyone knows of someone who created a 3D printable bracket, that would perhaps be the ideal solution. It might a bit more sound damping too as compared to the stock metal bracket, but one would need to print and test such a plastic bracket to know for certain. Any thoughts, suggestions and photos you are willing to share would be appreciated. Thank you.
  2. kahlil88

    CC and SE30 damaged pads

    Destroyed a few pads on my CC and SE/30 boards. CC was the first board I tried to re-cap, with my rusty soldering skills and not the best iron. My electronics guru helped reconstruct most of the traces but we couldn't get this last one and I can't tell what it connects to. SE/30 recap went smoothly (I learned from my mistakes with the CC and took it slow) but I broke a pin off UF8 and then killed 4 traces trying to remove it!
  3. Just this christmas I got a macintosh se/30. I did a recap on it to bring back the sound and to bring back the occasional boot issues with the internal scsi. The internal scsi boots fine now no matter what, but neither my external scsi or external floppy ports boot. The machine starts up and when any external sources is in it gives the flashing floppy. Now I know its not the floppy since Its a emu and it works on my se and my plus. And I know its not my external scsi because It works fine when I use it on my other machines and it works when I put it in the machine. And yes there isn't the slightest of corrosion on the board, I was so surprised to see it in such good condition inside. I have cleaned both the ram slots and the ram. I also cleaned the slot for the rom and the rom itself. It boots fine with an internal but not external. It sees its there because it freezes at boot up to try and boot from the sources but it just wont from either.
  4. kahlil88

    Mac SE/30 no video after re-cap

    Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of which it was used as a door stop at my old high school). Re-cap went smoothly, and afterwards I cleaned the board with soap and a toothbrush, pressure washed with hot water, then shook and sat to dry overnight. Powered on the next day and I get a chime but no video. I decided to have a go at re-flowing UE8, UF8 and the other chips in that row, along with all the caps I had replaced (a few weren't as flat as they could be). Powered on and not even a chime. Went back for a second pass and ended up breaking a leg off UF8. The speaker chimes again but then blip-blips indefinitely, almost like it's stuck in a reboot loop but doesn't fully chime after the first one.
  5. SE30_Neal

    Assigning SCSI chains

    hi guys, I’m looking to daisy chain SCSI peripherals to my SE/30, i’ve not done this before and could do with some advise as i notice some of the peripherals require assigning a scsi daisy chain number others don’t, i have the following:- -Zip100 no scsi assignment number -AVID external HHD has assignment number. -Apple 300 CD-ROM has assignment number. -None branded CD-ROM no assignment number. -UMAX Astra 610 Flatbed scanner also has assignment number. i would like to set up the daisy chain to my SE/30 so questions are: 1.) do i have to set them up in any kind of priority order, ie those with auto numbering first or hhd first 2.) do i need to have them in order of the chain ie if say the avid hhd is first link in chain that must be 1 i know the last in chain requires a terminator which is fine as i have one. any advice of setup would be most helpful. thanks Neal
  6. Just as the topic asks, has anyone tried using a rounded scsi cable for their SCSI2SD or even just normal internal scsi hdd? I don't love the idea of twisting the flat cable to orientate it correctly in my SE/30. I remember in the past buying roudned IDE cables but I'm having trouble finding SCSI. Any thought or advice?
  7. Hi folks, this is my first post here and I’m looking for some help diagnosing yet another video issue with a Mac SE/30 - hoping that someone could point me in the right direction. Usual story, dug the Mac out of storage to find it didn’t boot, display full of stripes and noise. Removed the caps, cleaned out the electrolyte, dirt and oxide, replaced caps. The board looks great, no visible broken traces and squeaky clean. Connected to power, the Mac chimes, POSTs and boots all the way to the Finder normally, the mouse and floppy work. The issue is only the left quarter of the screen is being drawn, as if divided into four columns, leaving horizontal strips across the rest. In the Finder I can make out the trash and menubar but being continually overwritten in the same quarter screen. It’s as if only 25% the VRAM is being written, but the whole memory is being read back out to the video circuit. With the RAM and ROM SIMMs out the Mac shows a stable full screen stripe pattern. Swapping out both RAM/ROM with a known good set yields the same results. I’d appreciate it if anyone could offer any advice on what could be happening. Before I buzz out the entire board or start replacing chips I’d like an idea of what’s going on.
  8. Hello, My Macintosh SE/30 motherboard has been having issues since I received the computer in mid July. First of all, it used to turn on and do the simasimac, and death chimes but then I sent it out to MacCaps, and he tried to repair to no avail. It did the same thing when I got it back, so I tried washing the board in 5% White vinegar, but that didn't do anything. Any suggestions? Thanks! -Ryan
  9. Hi everyone. I'm not English speaker so maybe I can't tell about some problems nicely. sorry about it. Few days ago I bought Macintosh SE/30 with no HDD. it looked some leaking capacitors on the motherboard, so I remove capacitors and then clean the motherboard with dishwasher and dry it out and then recapped. Then boot up SE/30, it looked boot up nicely. She can boot up from internal FDD and external FDD(Floppy Emu). When turn on the power, internal HDD looks spin up and can see blinking access LED. But can't boot up from HDD and can't see from Finder. I try format HDD on some third party formatter software but they can't format. They looks recognize the HDD but can't do any functions. When try check SCSI devices on Lido 7, it says "OSErr= 5 bad scsi command: phase error." on SCSI ID 0. and Pmount shows 0MB Drive on SCSI ID 0. This also happens another 3 HDDs I have. What I can do for fix this problem? Thanks IMG_0614.HEIC
  10. tommijazz91

    Mac SE/30 network problems

    Hello everyone! I recently acquired a CNET technology cn470e PDS card, which I installed some days ago. I wrote another post about it, but unfortunately no-one replied (https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/57586-se30-cnet-network-card/). Probably the post is too dense and full of useless things... . I am trying to surf the internet with the SE/30, but I am completely stuck. I installed OT 1.3 and AppleShare 3.7.4, Netscape 2.02 and iCab 2.99 (freezes at startup). The red LED is on (connection is good) but the greed LED is off (data being transmitted). What do I do from here? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot.
  11. tommijazz91

    SE/30 startup problems

    Hello everyone! My SE/30 has always had a weird problem: if I boot from the internal hard disk, most of the time the system software doesn't load, and the floppy icon appears (as if the HDD took to long to spin). This happens almost every time, maybe it will boot once every 20 times or more, and mostly at cold boot. But if I connect a SCSI Zip drive (even without a cartridge), the Mac boots just fine to System 7.5.5. I have a 8gb hard drive with five partitions, the system folder is in partition 1. Otherwise it's a stock SE/30 that needs recapping (no sound). RAM is 8mb. Anyone knows why this happens? Thanks a lot!
  12. tommijazz91

    SE/30 CNET network card

    Hello everyone! I hope this is the right place to post this, if not so then I'll remove the post. Some weeks ago I acquired on eBay a PDS network card for my SE/30: it's a CNET Technology CN470E card. Just today I found some time to install it, and TattleTech indeed confirmed some stats about this card: Now, as I have never used network cards before, I would like to know if some you could help me in configuring it and try surfing the web/share files/email, etc. There is an older topic on the forum about this card (https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/55066-anyone-able-to-identify-this-se30-network-card/&tab=comments#comment-584140), but it wasn't completely solved and I hope the drivers included with system 7 are good enough. I have also read the pinned guide to connect the SE/30 to the web, but it confused me quite a bit. I also have lots of (probably) unnecessary things in my system folder. Maybe some of you could tell me if I can delete some control panels/extensions and replace them with more efficient ones. I know it's a real mess, but somehow I feel most of those things are not needed for what I intend to do. I don't have many ways to transfer files to the SE/30: I only have a SCSI Zip drive and a USB Zip drive for my modern PC and Mac. Also: do I need a particular router? A particular Ethernet cable? I'm totally new about this. Thanks a lot! P.S. what does the little lever (on the right side of the card) do?
  13. I have a fully recapped SE/30 with 128MB RAM, ROMinator II Mega (with stock software still on it), and I'm booting from a FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Even though FloppyEMU is basically a floppy emulator that connects to Macs via the floppy port, "HD20 mode" allows me to create a disk image (in my case, just over 200MB) on the SD card of the FloppyEMU and boot from it, just as an Apple HD20 hard disk would boot (via the floppy port). Normally the SE/30 cannot boot from an HD20, but the ROMinator II fixes that problem and allows booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode and even from a real HD20. Currently, I am using System 6.0.8 on my FloppyEMU. Everything works fine and as expected EXCEPT for MultiFinder. For some reason I don't understand, MultiFinder won't load when I boot System 6 from my FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. (You always know when MultiFinder loads because you can see a little icon in the upper right of the menubar. When MultiFinder doesn't load, as in my case, that icon is missing.) No matter what I do, I can't get MultiFinder to load when booting from the FloppyEMU in HD20 mode. Yet if I boot from a spinning platter HDD (external SCSI drive) into System 6.0.8, MultiFinder loads just fine. I've tried copying MultiFinder from my HDD to my FloppyEMU without success, and I've tried a fresh copy of MultiFinder from System 6.0.8 install disks too, which doesn't work either. (I am booting in 24-bit addressing mode.) Those of you who have both a ROMinator II and FloppyEMU in HD20 mode booting System 6, have you experienced this problem with MultiFinder?
  14. I've had several PhoneNet adapters in my collection for many years but never used them since my SE/30 has an Ethernet card. But today I was thinking about multiplayer games like MazeWars which might be fun for myself and my two kids. I have a Mac 512k (64k ROMs) and a PhoneNet adapter for it (including terminating resistor), and I also have two Farallon PhoneNet adapters with round connectors for use with more modern Compact Macs like the SE/30 shown here: I am running System 6.0.8 and System 7.1 and 7.5.5 on my two SE/30's, and I have pre-System6 operating systems on floppies for my Mac512 (again, which has the original 64k ROMs, not the newer 128k ROMs of the Mac 512kE or Plus). Since I've never used PhoneNet before, I have the following questions: 1. Can one even play games like MazeWars across different Macs and operating systems? (A Mac 512k is quite different from an SE/30 in terms of floppy disk drive capacity, ROM, RAM and OS compatibility.) 2. What specific software must I have installed on System 6.0.8, System 7.1 and pre-System6 Macs? And, is there a minimum System version for this to work? (Is use of a 400k boot floppy out of the question?) 3. Can I use regular telephone wire? (The kind of wire you'd use to connect a wired phone to a wall socket?) 4. Say I have my Mac512 and both SE/30's all connected via the PhoneNet adapters, and say I have all the required software installed. Now let's say I sit down at the Mac512. I assume I will see both SE/30's in the Chooser? And do I select both SE/30's in the Chooser to start networking with them? 5. Will this LocalTalk setup work with pretty much any multi-player networked Mac game? Thanks. P.S. Yes, I am aware of the Definitive Guide to Networking, but it doesn't answer my questions specifically. Indeed, answers to my questions above may become the new definitive guide since they don't seem to be answered briefly and specifically elsewhere.
  15. Question for those of you SE/30 owners who use a PDS video card with an external display. I have a Micron Xceed video card and grayscale setup. Grayscale works great on the internal CRT, but I've never used the DB-15 port also offered by the video card. I have a 15" Color VGA LCD that's about 10 years old. Would this adapter on Amazon be all that I would need? (Not sure how those DIP switches on the adapter are used in case like this though.) Note the horizontal scan rate mentioned in the Xceed manual page below of 31.5kHz, which seems rather odd (maybe common for Apple though?). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  16. MacinPosh

    SE/30 burnt ROM socket

    I was in the process of cleaning and recapping an SE/30 logic board which had been subjected to a battery leakage. I've checked and rerouted all the rotted traces (totalling about 15) between the RAM, ROM, VROM and GLU but when I was satisfied enough to attempt a boot, pin 63 on the ROM burnt out (causing pin 64 to fall off, but pin 63 was definitely the offender) leaving me with a dead SE/30. Any ideas what might have caused the sudden burning on the ROM? I've checked it in another machine and now it only boots a grey screen with death chimes. Maybe there is a short I haven't noticed, or there are broken internal traces too? Any suggestions are much appreciated, but I fear this machine is un-repairable.
  17. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  18. SE30_Neal

    VRAM SE/30

    Ok guys as micron cards are either rarer than hens teeth or more expensive than the Cullinan diamond can you upgrade THE SE/30’s on board 64kb Video RAM, i.e could you replace it with say a 256kb or 512kb chip? I presume this 64kb chip is soldered on the motherboard somewhere, what chip is it? Or is it just a pipedream and really thetr isn’t a way to up the spec without such a micron card? I ask as im using mine for graphics which is perhaps hadly the perfect machine but fun nevertheless neal
  19. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  20. jupo

    SE/30s with dim CRTs

    Hey, all. I have four SE/30s out of a large stash that have been in storage (long story) for years. I started going through them this week and I think all four logic boards are generally in working order after a thorough cleaning (apart from obviously needing recapped). But what seems to be new is that all four of them have terribly dim screens. I tried playing with the brightness pot on the analog board on one of them and although it did raise the brightness, it also became blurry and introduced diagonal lines unless I turn the front brightness knob back down to about half to 1/3 as bright as the Plus or SE sitting next to it. I've been digging around but haven't seen any clear answers. I don't see visible issues with the capacitors on the analog boards, but is this where I should start anyway? Or the flyback? Or is scavenging a tube maybe from one of the SE's my only option? Appreciate any and all advice...
  21. Crutch

    Micron Xceed Color 30 fail

    My recently acquired Xceed Color 30 worked a few times ... then started failing intermittently (popping noise from the analog board, and bright scan lines on the screen with no video) before failing completely (same symptoms, 100% of the time). I noticed the IC at U1 gets extremely hot (painful to touch) quickly when powered up. I'm hoping that replacing it will solve my problem... two questions for people here smarter than me: 1. That IC is labeled "TIT131FS F74". I'm hoping it's one of these three flip flops. Is there a way to tell which one? Does it matter? TI SN74F74D = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=AMJt07B76usCaqNdeb4hlg%3d%3d TI SN74F74DR = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=sbcp%2f4gpy0%2bgzMKzFBFFrA%3d%3d TI SN74F74DRG4 = https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=mE33ZKBHyE7Fs3ZxegDeVA%3d%3d 2. Any thoughts on something else I might be missing? Is replacing this IC actually likely to help? Thanks for any help or ideas!
  22. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in that thread. I make videos for the enjoyment of it and as a way to give back to the community. I currently don't allow ADs on my videos nor do I have a Patreon account, which is why I've never earned any monetary compensation at all from my videos. (The down side of that is Google doesn't suggest my videos as well as videos with ADs enabled.) I make videos that I really wish someone else had made for me. Even though what you see in my videos isn't necessarily groundbreaking or unique (some of you are far beyond me in terms of troubleshooting knowledge, repairs and mods, for example), I simply am transforming into an easy-to-digest video what otherwise has been exclusively found in "text form" in forums like this. For the new generation of younger people who don't prefer to read, videos are becoming increasingly important. (Even so, I still get Millennials complain my videos are too long, so we can't please everyone. I prefer to be thorough rather than worry about the clock though.) My next video endeavor will be to show the recapping of an SE/30 analog board, and then I will have yet another video showing the recapping of the SONY PSU. Anyway, I hope this information is useful not only for you DiiMO owners but also for those of you who need to recap 5V voltage rails, as the Niobium Oxide caps I chose work perfectly for that, assuming you need 22uF. They come in other sizes though so give them due consideration in your recapping jobs.
  23. SE30_Neal

    Se/30 sound

    Is if normal for se/30’s to crackle on certain games but not others? Lemmings is fine but duel isn’t as an example. any ideas or could the sound chip be on its way out?
  24. nickpunt

    Multiprocessor SE/30!

    "Scientists were so preoccupied with whether they or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should" In all seriousness though, has anyone ever attempted to put two accelerators in an SE/30? For example, a socketed powercache and a turbo 68040: I have no particular desire to be the first to attempt it as I don't want to see two extremely valuable parts go up in smoke, but my understanding is the Turbo040 can be enabled / disabled in software, so if this configuration worked electrically & in drivers, you could have the best of both worlds in software compatibility, given some software works better on 030s than 040s. My guess is daystar software would be rather confused by this whole arrangement, but who knows?
  25. I am starting this thread to see if there is some possibility of getting my two SE/30 motherboards repaired or replaced. In 2012, I went through my collection and realized I had two SE/30 logic boards which showed the Horizontal Lines (Simasimac) at cold boot. Those lines were stable on-screen and would display forever, meaning the SE/30 would never boot. Prior to 2012, I had recapped both boards but found they both had identical Simasimac symptoms. The two boards were recapped at different times, one being one of the very first SE/30 logic boards I ever recapped -- I used electrolytic capacitors at the time and a dab of hot glue to ensure the traces at the feet of the caps wouldn't break if I accidentally applied pressure on them. That board worked fine for a while and then suddenly stopped working. The other bad motherboard was acquired by me and recapped later using yellow Tantalum capacitors, thanks to Trag's capacitor replacement kit he sold back in the day (not sure if he still sells that now in 2018). At that time in 2012, I referenced my SE/30 schematics and spent many hours testing PCB trace integrity, not finding the root problem that was causing the horizontal lines on both boards. Eventually, I mentioned my two defective motherboards in the 68kMLA forum, and a forum member who I will simply name "TK" said he could fix them if I would ship them off to him. I am in Japan, and he is in the USA. I shipped both boards to TK in March 2012. I followed up with TK at various times, but ultimately it took 2.5 years before the boards were shipped back to me. Unfortunately, the boards were not packed properly, and although I was assured they worked before they were shipped, they both did not work when I received them. They showed horizontal lines at the time I received them, which is the same problem they have to this day. I am going to provide repair details now, but let it be know that I am not trying to speak negatively of TK. Rather, I simply need to state certain details as relevant facts for consideration by those who may be able to kindly assist me in repair or replacement. TK discussed some of the repairs in our forum, but sadly those threads were apparently lost in a forum disk crash some years back and I can no longer link them for you. However, I still have my old PM's from many years ago, thankfully. I will now list pertinent details from my old PMs for the purpose of showing what was diagnosed and what was repaired on my two SE/30 logic boards. Again, my aim is to provide detailed information to those of you who might have the knowledge and skill to repair these boards, keeping in mind that TK was quite skilled at repairs. March 2012: TK began exchanging PM's about SE/30 experiences and the board mistakes of others. He told me he saw one of my old YouTube videos showing a SimasiMac SE/30 logic board and that I should send him my board to see what he could to with it. That led to the beginning of my discussions with him and ultimately sending both of my boards to TK for repair. Upon receipt of my boards, TK told me, "One of your boards has almost a near short on the 5V rail. not a short-short, but a semi-short. So one of the ICs is bad somewhere. I am going to have to do micro-resistance analysis to find out where..." Some days later, TK said that the tantalum-recapped board "shows a cascading short on RP2, meaning several ceramic caps inside the filter are leaky/shorted." TK also said, "the other board (electrolytic-recapped) has a short on RP3 between 10 and 11 on a single chain and none of the others." TK used a heat gun to pull RP2 from the tantalum-recapped board, but he said that the heat sensor in that heat gun failed, causing the heat to rise above 800 degrees (°F?) and resulted in burn marks on the bottom side of that board. (Scroll to the bottom and see my board photos, one of which shows that burn mark.) TK said that his heat gun did NOT kill the board though. However, TK said that pulling RP2 did not fix the problem with that board. He did note that the "UD1 74F240 buffer is corroded pretty good" but did not say if that was a problem. TK saw some corrosion on the SIMM connectors and cleaned it. (Tantalum-recapped board) Even after cleaning the SIMM banks (tantalum-recapped board), the board would work only if both banks were used (1 bank couldn't be used, apparently due to a broken trace). Apparently, the Simasimac on this board was caused by "CASLL broken to the SIMM1 Bank A and B." (A broken trace to RAM.) I was told that this broken trace would cause the other negative side effect of being forced to use both banks instead of being able to use just 1 bank of RAM. TK determined that both boards had a bad BOURNS filter which needed replacing. He said he didn't have spare BOURNS filters to do the repair, however. I decided to wait and see if he could source them. TK uploaded a YouTube video his work on my board: TK told me (regarding which board he never made clear): "the ROM select line pulls low and right back high again and nothing happens from there. All data and address lines check out, so I know this isn't the issue. With ROM removed, select line remains high until NMI invoked, then it pulls low and holds, which is NORMAL. So the next thing I am going to do is check the overlay flag. If the overlay flag isn't being flipped, the GLU chip is bad." May 2012: With it having been more than 1 month, I decided to pay $18 to Trag, who very kindly was able to source 6 BOURNS filters and ship them directly to TK. I informed TK of the shipment. May 2014 (yes, 2 years later -- and yes, I had followed-up during those 2 years): Regarding Tantalum-recapped board: One BOURNS filter was determined to be bad and replaced. TK said there might also be "a bad GLU." A "bad trace to RAM" on the tantalum-recapped board was bad, and he soldered in a wire to fix. After those fixes, the board apparently still wasn't stable, resulting in death chimes on occasion during cold boot. August-September 2014: Apparently, the CPU was dead in one of the SE/30 motherboards. TK speculated that must have been caused from a bad PDS card, although I don't think so myself since my PDS cards work in my working SE/30s. So the cause of the dead CPU is a mystery. TK took a heat gun (now with repaired temperature sensor) and removed the 68030 CPU, then put it in another board and tested and confirmed the CPU to be bad. It was at this point TK decided to install CPU sockets to make insertion and removal easier. TK remarked that he has repaired "thousands of boards" but it was the first time he'd ever seen a failed CPU. TK said that long ago he had accidentally connected a NuBUS card into a PDS slot and fried the CPU, which is why he suspected something similar must have happened for my CPU to have been killed. (Which would of course mean that my case of having a fried CPU was actually the 2nd case TK had seen.) TK said the CPU tried to run but all the data bus I/O lines were pulled close to 1.8v when they should have been a little over 4v. That led TK to believe that they must have been shorted in some way to cause damage to the CPU. He went on to say that "the only cause for those is a voltage spike, or maybe an overload of the address/data bus" and that "it is unknown if there was any damage to any of the other ICs." TK quoted me $39.90 for a replacement 68030 CPU and sockets, which I promptly paid him via PayPal. October 2014: A certain knowledgeable forum member (currently, no longer a member) sent me a PM to say that TK had repaired both of my SE/30 motherboards. I asked him how he knew that, and he said, "I speak to TK privately 3 times per day!" I then added TK to our PM conversation and the following facts were explained to me: Tantalum-recapped board needed a BOURNS filter, which TK finally installed in Oct. 2014. (Most likely using 1 of the 6pcs purchased and shipped to TK via Trag in May 2012.) TK confirm both boards were fixed as of Oct. 2014. TK requested $75 for the repair, which included shipping. TK said he reduced the price due to the long time he had the boards. I received both boards in December 2014. Metal prongs that stick up in either side of the connector side of the board were bent due to the lack of soft packing material inside the box. I mention this not to case blame (although I certainly would have packed the box better), but rather to explain that the boards could have been damaged during transport, assuming they were perfectly fixed by TK prior to him shipping them to me. I never mentioned to TK that the boards failed testing on arrival because (1) I was already out a fair amount of money and no better than when I started, and (2) because it had taken 2.5 years. I put the boards back in their anti-static bags and stored them in my closet until now (Sept. 2018). Here are high resolution photos of the top and bottom sides of both of my boards, shot today: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sandxdkcxdss6h1/AABOOjMnrcSKhlD1neFlHOCna?dl=0 One person based in Germany has sent me a PM about these boards; but of course, I must consider the cost of shipping. I am providing all these details primarily for his benefit, but also for others to read too. I would like to hear varied opinions. All said, I've invested $30 (cost of shipping from Japan to USA) + $18 (BOURNS) + $39.90 (new 68030 & sockets) + $75 (repair & return shipping fees) = $169.90, which doesn't include the cost for the capacitor replacement and doesn't include the cost I originally paid to get the boards in the first place. Wow! Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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