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About Franklinstein

  • Birthday January 20

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    Tokyo, Japan
  • Interests
    Macs, Japanese cars, disco

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    Network infrastructure technician

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  1. Franklinstein

    Power Mac 7200 Broken Plastic Tabs

    In short, welcome to mid-90s Apple. If you look up "brittle" in the dictionary there's a picture of a PowerBook or beige Power Mac, either a 7200-style or 5200-style case, depending on which dictionary you're looking at. That big louvered thing is important because it helps direct airflow over the PCI and processor cards, but it's not a big deal if its mounts are busted; just lay it back in place and it should stay. The drive caddies can be had on eBay or from some people here. The black case support and the little flip-out stand aren't essential. Power buttons and case latches are kind of hard to find in one piece.
  2. Franklinstein

    Color Classic/Mystic weird video issue

    It may be trying to run a video mode the CC doesn't support. Try booting the board in question with a Disk Tools disk after zapping PRAM.
  3. Franklinstein

    Quantum Prodrive possible repair

    I posted in this thread about rubber replacement a fairly detailed description of what these bumpers do and where they are on both the ELS and LPS drives. I figure silicone of some sort would be a perfect replacement material for them. You can probably use silicone beads if you can find them; the bumpers don't have to be perfectly cylindrical, just with dimensions in the ballpark of the originals. I'd like to find something made of silicone shaped roughly like a glue stick that I could cut to size. The "parking brake" is Quantum's AIRLOCK armature. Its function is to prevent the head armature from moving out of the landing zone in the event the drive experiences shock. It utilizes the air current generated by the spinning platters to move the arm out of the way once the drive spins up, and it's spring-loaded to automatically deploy when the drive spins down. You'll notice that in older drives such as the LPS, the lower capacity versions have an odd black plastic platter on top. This is because the air currents required aren't generated without two platters. However, this problem was solved in the newer ELS drives: the single-platter drives have a wicked-looking attachment at the top of the spindle that generates enough air to move the AIRLOCK armature. The head armature really don't have any torque so the slightest stickiness to any of the bumpers will keep it from moving. Your drives are probably sticking on the bumper underneath the platters (if you use an ELS drive), though if the AIRLOCK armature doesn't move once the platters are at full speed, there could be something unusual causing it to stick.
  4. I don't know what they were thinking with the 3.5" CDROM. I've only ever seen maybe ten retail CDs in that format and I doubt any developers were terribly excited to accommodate another weird Apple decision, especially one so unnecessary. If they had moved a few things around internally (such as the IR module and using flip-down feet instead of the spring-loaded ones) they probably could've shoehorned a full-size CD drive in the 5300's case with only an extra cm or so of depth. But of course arbitrary and unreasonable management ruins everything, as usual. As for the 3.5" MO, like every other Apple drive it would have been built by someone else and who would have then slapped on a sticker with an Apple logo. 98% chance it would have been a Fujitsu unit (like the ones VST and Logitec ultimately used), though at the time IBM also made MOs, and Olympus was a noted manufacturer of high-speed MOs, though both were mostly focused on desktop devices. I'm sure that if MOs were more popular in the States they would have brought it to market, but between the expense and poor availability of the disks outside of Japan, I guess they figured it wasn't worth the trouble. Or, perhaps they couldn't get a deal with Fujitsu to make the drives to Apple specifications. What would also be interesting would be a collection of 3rd party expansion bay models that aren't a Zip drive. Apparently there were some internal power supplies built, but what else was actually available? I have a VST MO 230 (sadly dead) but that's the only other thing I've seen for these machines.
  5. Franklinstein

    Pre-Production LC

    I have one too. It came with a DayStar Value 040 installed.
  6. Franklinstein

    Cheap IDE on scsi bus solution?

    Oh yeah? I figure a good SD controller with one of those high-speed SD cards would surely outperform an average HD, especially if you're not spending a ton of money on a fast HD. Most of these machines have problems with drives and/or partitions exceeding 128GB anyway; I'd stick with a 32GB flash card and call it good. These drives only have so much controller memory available and are not reprogrammable without specific commands being invoked; none of them could autonomously reprogram their local memory. On a lot of drives, especially in the late 80s/early '90s, the program data was stored on an EPROM and couldn't be changed anyway. Anything modern with SMART typically keeps everything related to defect management (among other parameters) in a special reserved area on the drive's media. I would imagine older drives do the same, except perhaps on ancient MFM-era drives that have the defect list printed on the top of the drive. Even then the disk driver/file system often keeps a record of bad sectors (at least SilverLining would map and reallocate bad sectors at format time or on-demand as errors arose). Typically with trial and error it's possible to switch controller boards among any drive within the same family (so, a Quantum Fireball TM with another TM, or a CX with another CX), whether it's SCSI or ATA, higher or lower capacity. It doesn't always work, especially if there were large revisions somewhere in the product's lifetime, but it does more often than not. Apparently the Fireball TM had a very poor reliability record in ATA guise but was fine with the SCSI controller (though honestly it was a lackluster drive regardless of interface); I have a couple of the 3.2GB variant on ATA that aren't recognized by any host computer that I'm keeping in case I get a bad SCSI version to swap boards. Generally only consumer-class drives (Quantum Fireball, Seagate Medalist, some IBM DeskStars) were sold with the same HDA on either ATA or SCSI; the high-end HDAs were only ever sold as SCSI ("real" Seagate Barracuda or Cheetah, IBM UltraStar, Quantum Atlas), though you could swap boards between narrow, wide 68, and wide SCA versions.
  7. Franklinstein

    G4 Cube DVDRW drive

    The early PBG4s used that same drive, but I think they were all Matsushita units where the Cube and iMac mostly used LG units. Either way they were huge and not terribly reliable, and with the rubber on the loading rollers and drive belts dried out after so many years, they tend to be unusable. I don't bother with the internal drive in my Cubes; I just use an external FW DVDRW that's faster and easier to use than any of the slot-loaders I've come across. MCE sells the mounting bracket that you would need included in the $99 kit, whereas the $69 kit assumes you already have the mounting bracket. The bracket is pretty simple, just some stamped sheet metal. Other people have apparently gutted the old drive and mounted the new one in its case (like on this tonymacx86 thread.) Otherwise try using the Wayback Machine with Cube Owner to see if you can recover the pages relevant to 3D printing a bracket (though I'd imagine this would be the most labor-intensive option).
  8. Franklinstein

    Cheap IDE on scsi bus solution?

    I found a SCSI-to-IDE bridge for about $5 in a junk shop a while back. After looking it up for sale online it seems to go for about $100, so needless to say it's not cheap under normal circumstances. You're better off with the SCSI2SD setup because they'll both cost about the same while the SCSI2SD will be noticeably faster. The 8100 does indeed have a secondary internal-only SCSI bus utilizing the NCR 53CF96 fast SCSI controller. It runs at 10MB/s, twice the performance of the primary SCSI controller. Pretty much every Mac with onboard SCSI used the slower 5MB/s controller, with some exceptions: most high-end Power Macs had two buses, the slow internal/external SCSI bus for the CDROM and whatnot and the fast internal bus for the hard drives, and there were also a few high-end 68k boxes (IIfx, a couple Quadras) that used fast SCSI.
  9. Franklinstein

    PowerBook Duo 270c

    Also try booting with a good Disk Tools 7.0 or 7.1 disk. Try a different power supply. Any Mac power adapter up to the original G3/iBook yo-yo power adapters will work (except for Portable, 1x0, 500 series, and 190/5300). Do you have a Dock with external video capabilities? Try using it in that to see if it has the same problems.
  10. Franklinstein

    is this card anything special?

    Are there any hints as to a manufacturer or model? It's not the Apple IIsi NuBus adapter because those have the FPU and NuBus controller on the card with just the one NuBus slot where this has only an FPU slot but has two staggered connectors. It could be a DayStar PDS adapter that allows for both a processor upgrade card and a PDS card in one slot, or possibly a SuperMac IIsi video card adapter that allows for two cards to fill the one external slot. If there are no markings I doubt you'll figure out exactly what it is. Check eBay's completed listings for values; without the companion expansion cards I really doubt it's worth much.
  11. Franklinstein

    Calibrate 800k/1.4mb Floppy drives 3.5"

    Larry Pina's books often have procedures for aligning floppy drives without lots of the specialized test equipment that Sony requires for a factory calibration. Try checking your local library for The Dead Mac Scrolls or any flavor of Macintosh Bible that he's published if you want a good walk through. From my memory, the basic procedures (for Sony manual inject only, though it should work on auto inject drives): You'll need a certified good Mac floppy for testing, either factory produced or formatted on a known-good Mac, to use for alignment. Make sure the disk is LOCKED or you will ruin it and/or screw up the alignment process. You will need full access to the drive while it is operating so don't try to do this in situ on a SE or Color Classic; you really should use an LC or II of some sort, better yet if you can fabricate a very long floppy cable so that you can have the drive connected outside of the computer and thus have lots of room to work on the drive. Also, clean the drive first, including the heads, to eliminate dirt as the cause of your problems. This procedure assumes the drive hasn't been damaged and isn't missing pieces. For track-0 alignment (generally only necessary if the drive has been completely disassembled and the drive asks to format every disk): There's a post on the side of the head assembly (an interrupter) on the side opposite of the motor, and it slides into a slot in a black plastic thing (the optical assembly) toward the back of the drive. The interrupter interrupts an optical beam when the head assembly moves into position, and when this happens the drive knows that it is at track 0. To adjust this, mark the current position of the optical assembly, slightly loosen the screws securing the optical sensor assembly, move the assembly slightly forward or back, tighten the screws, and then insert a disk. Repeat the process until the computer attempts to read the disk rather than simply saying it's "not a Macintosh disk." If the head alignment hasn't been bothered, this should be all you need to do as the drive will be properly aligned to track 0 and thus be able to read a good disk. However if the computer has problems reading the disk even after adjusting the setting for track 0, you'll need to adjust the head alignment. For head alignment (for a drive with new heads, that has been completely disassembled, or regularly has problems reading manufactured disks or disks formatted on other computers/other computers can't read disks formatted in this drive): There are two hex screws on either side of the stepper motor that drives the heads. Mark the current orientation of the drive chassis to the stepper motor body. Loosen these screws slightly and turn the motor body slightly one way or the other. Insert a disk and wait for the computer to respond. If it says the disk has problems, eject the disk, twist the drive motor body a little more in that direction, and reinsert the disk until the computer reads it reliably. If it instead says the disk is unreadable, try rotating the drive motor in the other direction until the drive attempts to mount the disk. Usually you would rotate the motor body until the drive starts to read the disk well, mark the position, then keep rotating it until it no longer reads the disk, mark the position again, and then rotate it back to a middle point between where it starts and stops reading the disk properly before tightening the screws. This usually ensures the best drive performance and is as good as it gets without getting into crazy test equipment.
  12. Franklinstein

    Colour Classic - should I or not

    I had one or two not work after a recap but they typically also are victims of battery leakage or other corrosion so there are probably other underlying problems that are not cap related. Another one had something leak onto the processor and basically dissolved half of the pins on it. I tried to replace the processor but that did not end well so I just got a replacement board. You'd figure original CC boards would be pretty common with everybody throwing them out in favor of various upgrades and mods, but it took a while to find a reasonably priced replacement (which I still had to recap).
  13. Regardless of all of the supposedly amazing things you're doing with grafting high-end chips into Amiga desktops, the purpose of this thread is to install a new processor in a vintage laptop that has virtually no ventilation and only the most meager of heat sinks. Thus, if you want to use the thing on battery for more than 30 minutes and/or not have it shut down from thermal overload in about the same amount of time, a low-power cool-running chip such as the CX or CXe, with a maximum power draw of 6.7W@366MHz (and less at the maximum 333MHz it would run in a PowerBook 5x0), is something to be desired, not scorned. I mean if you want to build your own 7447-based PowerBook 5x0 upgrade (which will draw up to 23W@1GHz and top out at just 924MHz (28x33MHz)), then please do, but the rest of us really aren't ready to take it to that level just yet, seeing as how they're still trying to arrange to do the original 603e-to-740 processor swap being discussed here. As far as the 750CX/CXe's package goes, yes it's wire-bonded and that's not the fastest technology ever, but it has a max of 700MHz and since its multiplier tops out at 10x (just like its contemporaries until the 750FX and 7450), the fastest it could possibly go in a 5x0-series machine is 333MHz, so it's kind of irrelevant. Also, yes, it has a heat spreader integrated to the top of the otherwise plastic BGA package. How is this a problem? It provides a large surface area directly bonded to the die, able to safely withstand a 2.2kg static load, and utilized to transfer heat to a proper thermal solution. Also the encapsulant on the underside of the package is designed to insulate the board from the die's heat, not transfer heat to it (the encapsulant is also a minimum of .244 mm away from the system board so there's no direct heat conduction). It doesn't transfer any more heat to the system board than would any comparable chip. In fact, I'd wager that it conducts less because normal FCBGAs have balls directly beneath the die. Anyway it's just a recommendation for one of the Plan B variants: 750CX on an interposer on the original BGA-style upgrade card. The low ball count and low package profile of the 750CX make it easy to work with and keeps the total installed height within original specs so you don't have to fab custom heat sinks or anything, and keeping the original upgrade card greatly reduces cost and effort compared to designing and building a whole new card. You'd still have to reduce voltages though since the CX only runs a 2.5V I/O instead of the 3.3V of the 603e, but this is a requirement in order to use pretty much any chip outside of the originally desired 740.
  14. Interesting. I had never bothered to read into the history of ZV before. I just knew it showed up in Macs around the CardBus era, so I figured it was related in some way. I would have to assume that the previous TREX controller doesn't support it, or at least the '030-era video controllers in these older 'Books didn't have any provisions for it. I have seen only one or two ZV cards in person, and the only one that comes to mind is the hardware MPEG decoder card for the WallStreet.
  15. They use the same package and that was the only picture I could find in a 10-second search that illustrated the point that I was making in that the CX has a flush top with the protected die mounted on the underside.