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  1. PotatoFi

    3D Print MessagePad 2000 Battery Tray

    What kind of machine? Injection-molding? Looking at this part, it appears to be designed with injection-molding or just straight-up perfect replication of the original part in mind. That's the biggest mistake I see in the world of 3D printing. As with any manufacturing method, it's important to optimize the part for printing. Same is true for CNC milling. It would be interesting to see the battery compartment in a MessagePad 2000, and work within those constraints to make a part that is optimized for printing. It's a good thing I don't have a MessagePad 2000... I don't need another modeling project to distract me from what I already have in-progress!
  2. PotatoFi

    "Cheap Networking" for System 6 and 7 Macs

    That's exactly what it sounds like to me. Double-check your DNS settings in MacTCP. DNS1 should be your home router, DNS2 should be a public DNS server like or In fact, you probably can skip your home router and go straight for public DNS.
  3. PotatoFi

    3D Print MessagePad 2000 Battery Tray

    I'm pretty confident that this is printable. Not the cleanest print... requires some support material, and I would expect the two curved tabs at the top to break off pretty fast. But I think it would work. Depending on how much clearance there is inside, this could probably be refined a bit to make it more printable.
  4. PotatoFi

    A Pile of Stuff from Sweden!

    One of my friends in my professional community is Swedish. He said he had a bunch Mac stuff for me, and said he'd bring over what he could to a conference that we both attended here in the US. That was a couple of months ago... I'm finally getting the chance to post about it now! Apple Extended Keyboard II with ALPS White switches, Swedish layout. AppleCD 150 enclosure with an NEC Multispin drive. This one appears to use CD-ROM caddies which I don't have. I think I'd like to find a slightly newer Apple CD-ROM drive for this enclosure... but I'd be interested in hearing your comments! I have exactly zero experience with CD-ROM drives in the 68k Mac ecosystem. AAUI Ethernet Adapter. My friend @sclements has use for this, so it's going to him. System 7 Personal Upgrade Kit. I haven't cracked the box open, but it is most likely complete! The box got a bit crunched in various bags and luggage which I feel terrible about. Apple Stickers. I don't know that I'll ever be able to bring myself to use them! Various SCSI cables and adapters. Needed some of these VERY badly! The Mac Internet Tour Guide, Cruising the Internet the Easy way. This should be fun to flip through. Microphone. Completely sealed. I'm not sure what to do with this one other than just hang onto it. "Install me First" CD. Not sure what it is for. Sealed. Power Macintosh 6100-8100 "Install me First" floppy disks. Sealed! A whole bunch of Jaz and ZIP stuff. I've heard (from LGR, I think) that Jaz drives and disks were just awful. To be honest, I have no idea what to do with these. SCSI Iomega ZIP drive SCSI Iomega Jaz drive USB Iomega ZIP drive 2.5" internal Iomega Jaz drive in a 5.25" bay adapter 2.5" internal Iomega ZIP drive in a 5.25" bay adapter The one that I'm the most excited about is the AppleCD drive. Would love to hear thoughts on what I should do with it, but I think it would be a very nice compliment to my newly acquired SE/30.
  5. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    I almost got the project back out to work on it last night, but decided to reassemble an Apple Keyboard II that I took apart months ago instead. This week marked the end of 14 weeks of straight travel for work, so I just haven't been home to work on it. Right now, the STL is basically a box. Not really worth sharing at this point. I have some time off around Thanksgiving and Christmas, so I hope to add a bunch of details to the case, and print one off! Keep an eye on this thread.
  6. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Restoration

    Okay, I'm back! And I have some good news: the restoration went flawlessly, and I successfully delivered it to my friend. Want to hear the whole story? Okay, here we go! Here's where we were last time I updated the thread. The machine was pretty dirty and had some stickers and old tape residue, but overall was in pretty great shape. The first step was to pop the back off and discharge the CRT. I've done a lot of these black-and-white compacts now (Plus, SE, Classic II, and SE/30), and I always let the machine sit with the power off for at least 4 hours before following the discharge procedure. I've never heard even a tiny snap - the bleeder resistors that the SE, Classic II, and SE/30 have apparently make quick work of that residual current. I don't use an in-line resistor either; just a wire with alligator clips and a long screwdriver. In about 5 minutes after the discharge procedure, the Mac looked like this. I'm getting REALLY quick at tearing these down! Now that it's all torn down, I want to get started on retrobrite right away, since I literally had less than 48 hours to complete this restoration. The speaker on the front needs to come out, but it's literally melted into place in two corners. My $5 Hakko flush-cutters make quick and clean work of that. I'll hot-glue the speaker back into place later on. The next step to prep for retrobrite is to pop out the Apple logo. I ruined one of these on a keyboard once... the red bleached to white during the retrobrite process. I think it was the heat and sunlight that got it. I remove them with my special wireless router reset tool, e.g. a paperclip. I gently push from the back to remove the badge. I've only damaged one like this when I used something too sharp, and it threatened to poke through the color. The paperclip is blunt so it works fine. Let's have one last look before we start cleaning. I've seen much worse! Beneath the sticker is a nice sneak peek at what the plastic originally looked like. I do know that this machine came from Albertson College here in Idaho. I believe the school has changed names now. This picture isn't great... but it does technically meet the "post-cleaning" photo requirement. I cleaned these the usual way: dishwasher soap, a toothbrush, and a bunch of elbow grease. For stubborn sticker and tape residue, I used isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel. This is probably one of the cleanest Macs I've restored, it just didn't take much work! I wanted to get retrobrite started as quickly as possible due to my time constraints. If you've seen my restorations before, you know that I break retrobrite up into a few main methods: Full submersion in liquid in sunlight (fast, safe) Cream covered with plastic wrap in sunlight (fast, very risky) Cream covered with plastic wrap under a UV lamp (slow, slightly risky) Since winter is definitely here in Idaho, #1 is basically out. When the liquid is diluted with some water in a big plastic bin, heat seems to be very important for making stuff happen. #2 would work, but I find this method to be very risky; anything that dries out under the plastic wrap bleaches too bright, and can't be removed. As a result, I avoid this method at all costs. #3 works well, but takes at least 24 hours and can cause minor but correctible marbling if your peroxide cream isn't even. This happened on my SE FDHD, which had some brown "blotchy" stuff on the side that I was able to almost completely correct with more hydrogen peroxide cream and time under the UV lamp. I experimented with method #1 a bit by purchasing a very cheap $15 aquarium heater that claimed it could get up to 97°F, and putting that in my retrobrite container (just with plain water for the test). Sitting in the driveway, I could only hit about 80°F after a few hours, but I didn't test much more than that. I'm keeping this trick in my back pocket, but for now, I decided to go with the tried and true method #3, which is: A CFL "lizard lamp" from the pet store, which emits UV light A large cardboard box lined with tin foil and a way to suspend the lamp "Salon Care" 40-proof hydrogen peroxide cream from Sally Beauty, evenly and liberally brushed on with a paintbrush Parts covered with plastic wrap, as airtight as feasible I exposed the parts for 8 hours one day, refreshed the cream before bed, and then let the parts for overnight. So 8 hours, refresh, then 12 hours. I think that refresh in the middle is super important, as it helps you keep things evenly exposed to hydrogen peroxide. With the retrobrite doing it's thing, it was time to turn my attention to the floppy drive. After a quick visit to the air compressor in the garage, it looked like this. I always avoid hitting the drive with full air pressure, especially around the read/write heads and delicate flex cables. I always pop out the eject motor first to make sure there's no old grease in there that could cause it to bind and break a gear. It's just two 2.5mm screws, but I always apply LOTS of downward force on the screws when I break them loose; I've rounded off the phillips heads before. After carefully releasing a couple of the little black clips, the internals are revealed. I swabbed them out with some alcohol, but overall they looked pretty good. I added a couple of drops of Teflon Silicone Lubricant. I've been using this stuff on my 3d printer linear rails for like... 8 years now. Works great for stuff like this. After referencing the drive disassembly guide by What's Up TK Here again, I took apart the drive. Sometimes I go crazy with Isopropyl alcohol in here, completely hosing down the drive, scrubbing with a toothbrush, and rising with more alcohol... but this time I just swabbed things out with q-tips. Then, I lubricated stuff with more Dupont Silicone lubricant, reassembled the drive, and checked it for smooth operation with a bad floppy disk. The next morning, I pulled the case out of the UV box, removed the plastic wrap, and cleaned off the peroxide cream, and... Beautiful. Retrobrite is done on this machine! I always use the plastic underneath the Apple badge as a control, and the difference here is super duper marginal. Time for reassembly! A couple dabs of hot glue hold the speaker in place. CRT, then the chassis, then the drives... I did hit the CRT with some Windex before installing it. Next, the analog board! HEY. What about that analog board recap that I promised?! Well... I'm out of time. Fortunately, my friend who is getting the machine is fully capable of pulling the board and sending it to me for a recap if needed. Ew, the power switch is gross. Can't have that. Ah, much better! I may have got a bit overzealous with the alcohol and scrubbing though. Easy to do. We're getting close... but another thing this machine needs is a new battery and battery tray. I bought both from RetroFixes.com. They have great prices, fast shipping, and great customer service. Here's the new tray, almost ready to go in: ...and here it is soldered from the bottom. It doesn't matter which pads you use on each end, as each respective end is connected. I'm not the best at soldering, but I can get the job done. I finished reassembly and powered the machine on to do some testing, and was reminded that the CRT was slightly crooked. I decided to risk my life to fix this problem by touching a CRT while it was on. YEP. TOUCHED A LIVE CRT. AND SOMEHOW, I DID NOT DIE. I didn't get any exact photos, but here's the process that I used. I powered the machine off and unplugged it. I loosed the Phillips screw that clamps the yoke onto the tube, and made sure I could carefully rotate the yoke (see photo) I powered the machine back on. Touching only the plastic nub thingies, I carefully rotated the tube until the picture was straight (see photo). I powered the machine back off. I carefully snugged up the yoke clamp. Powered the machine back on to verify that it was correct. At this point, all that was left was to wipe the hard drive, install System 7, get LocalTalk working, and load up a bunch of software! Sadly, I didn't have time to get a real "post-restore" photo shoot done, but I did have time for this photo. The amount of Macs in my house had peaked, so I wanted to take the opportunity to get a picture of all of them. Sadly, I forgot about a friend's SE SuperDrive that is out in the garage! Going from left to right: Plus, originally a 128k. Has a bad analog board or flyback. Retrobrite in early 2019, beige case though. Plus, completely works. Need to sell it. Retrobrite in early 2019, also beige. The Macintosh SE in this thread. Gone now, with my friend. Another Macintosh SE, retrobrite mid-2019. Delivered to another friend. My prize SE FDHD. My very first Mac, but I've barely had it for a year. Retrobrite in December 2018. It has re-yellowed just a bit... but I still think the retrobrite was totally worth it! Classic II. Retrobrite a couple months ago. Was super yellow. Has re-yellowed a little bit, but again, worth doing. My newest addition: an SE/30! I haven't got this one booting yet. Heck, I haven't even wiped it down. Full restoration coming on that one soon. My PowerBook 160! It also needs a restore, namely new caps. But it does boot and run! Okay, that's it for this restoration! Thanks for reading. Looking forward to your comments and questions about the process!
  7. PotatoFi

    Craigslist Mac SE, Mac SE, and Mac Plus

    I finished up a couple of things on the first Macintosh SE today. In an attempt to fix the shimmering video issue, I recapped the analog board, but NOT the power supply. Why not recap the power supply, you ask? Well, this particular machine is flying down to Vegas with me on Sunday (tomorrow) to hand to a friend, and I couldn't tear into the power supply in time. Still, I figured that an analog board recap would be a good idea, so I got it done. No fix, no surprise. As mentioned before, the squirrel cage fan is VERY noise, so I wanted to provide my friend with a "way out" if he chooses: a 3D printed part that a 50x20mm fan could be attached to, which I'll include with the machine. Finally, I decided to try to do something about the CRT, which is rotated by a few degrees (somewhere between 5 and 15). I found these instructions on how to do it: Following those, here's what I did: Prepared the Mac on a nonconductive surface with the back removed Carefully loosened the phillips screw that clamps the yoke to the neck (red arrow) Plugged in and powered on the machine Stayed away from the anode cap Carefully rotated the yoke, using the spikey plastic ring thingie until things were level (blue arrows) Shut down and unplugged the machine Snugged up the phillips screw that clamps down the yoke (red arrow) Note, that even though I executed this process and touched things while the CRT was on, I did not die! I am still alive! I think I'll go through and do this on basically all of my machines - they all need adjustment. Which leads to a question: why do these machines need adjustment? I think this is the most plausible explanation I've ever heard.
  8. PotatoFi

    A/UX running on SE/30

    This is awesome. I'm looking forward to you getting your case from @maceffects, and installing the SCSI2SD. An SE/30 with 128mb of RAM, a twisted-pair ethernet adapter, BMOW 32-bit clean ROM, SCSI2SD, SCSI CD-ROM (you have that too, right?), A/UX, and a clear case sounds like the ultimate SE/30 to me. Where did you go to find all of the A/UX how-to?
  9. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Restoration

    Back in April of this year (2019), I picked up three compact Macs on Craigslist. Originally, I was doing a restoration thread with all three of them, but that was awhile ago, and it was a bit chaotic to write about all three. There's one Macintosh SE left to finish restoring, so I've decided to break it out into it's own thread. I also need to get this one done pretty quickly, as I've traded it for a 3D printer and need to deliver to my friend in a couple of weeks, when I'll be driving through the city he lives in. So much of what I do with these machines is based on my travel patterns! Here's a photo back from April when I got it. The one in question is in the center with the "Mac 4" sticker. When I first received it, it was exhibiting a "sad mac" on boot. It came with a couple of 1mb 8-chip sticks of RAM, so I swapped them out with the four 256kb sticks that I pulled out of my SE FDHD, and that fixed the problem! No more sad Mac. Now, I have the standard list of things to do to get the machine fully restored: Recap the analog board to promote general health and long-life Clean analog and logic boards Install battery tray and battery Clean and retrobrite case Clean and lubricate floppy drive As of yesterday, I've received new caps for the analog board, so I'll tackle that straight-away. I've also ordered a new PRAM battery and tray (I don't remember if it needs a tray or not). The real challenge, given the timeframe that I have to work with, is going to be getting the retrobrite done. In the past, I've done hydrogen peroxide cream in sunlight, but I've found that the cream is pretty risky as it can produce streaking. Cream under a UV lamp indoors is slower and safer (you can refresh the cream every 6 hours or so), but still not completely safe. The safest method I've found is full submersion in liquid hydrogen peroxide, but this works best outdoors on hot days. Right now... it's about 50 degrees outside. So here's what I'm going to try: I've ordered a fish aquarium heater that is supposed to hit 97 degrees. I doubt it can maintain that temperature outdoors, but I might test that with plain-ol' water in the driveway. If that doesn't work, I'll bring it indoors and see how hot it gets for potential use with a UV lamp. If THAT doesn't seem to work, I'll probably revert to using a UV lamp and hydrogen peroxide cream. This will also serve as a bit of an experiment, as I have an SE/30 (HACK HECK'N YES ZOMG!!!!!) that needs retrobrite this winter as well.
  10. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Shimmering Video

    Super open to the idea, if someone has a list of capacitors (including circumference, lead spacing, capacitance, and voltage) for the Sony power supply ready-to-go. Wish I had time to tear into that support and get all of the values, but for this specific project... I just don't. P.S. Are image uploads broken? I've been trying for a couple of days, no luck.
  11. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Shimmering Video

    Alright, so it sounds like an AB recap is in order, but does that include the PSU, or can I just do the AB itself? Time is of the essence... I need to place a Mouser or DigiKey order today to have any hope of things arrive in time. Worst case scenario, I can just mail him a kit to do it, I suppose.
  12. Your efforts here are admirable. Best of luck to you!
  13. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Shimmering Video

    I have a Macintosh SE that I restored a few months ago, except for one part: I didn't recap anything on the analog board or in the Sony power supply. The machine works flawlessly, except for a slight vertical "shimmer" on the screen. You have to look very closely to see it, in fact, I'll bet that someone who wasn't used to looking at black-and-white compact Macs wouldn't notice. What is the typical cause of this? Is there a specific cap I can replace on the analog board and in the power supply, or do I need to recap the whole thing? Normally I wouldn't be averse to the idea, but I am flying to another city next week, which will be the perfect opportunity to deliver the machine to a friend. I'd like to have it squared away for him.
  14. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    I'm basically a Wi-Fi engineer, but a bit more on the technical training/technical marketing side. I was a technical trainer at a Wi-Fi planning and surveying tools vendor. I will probably continue to do technical training in Wi-Fi, working for myself. As for the 3D printing thing, I built my first printer in 2011. I did moonlight for Printrbot for awhile doing technical support, but other than that it's just been a hobby. As for the IIcx, IIfx, or Quadra 950... not sure! I've never seen any of them in person!
  15. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    I have the drive sitting out in a prominent place where it keeps reminding me! Every time I walk by, I go, "Gah! I REALLY want to work on that!" but I just haven't been able to find the time. On the hardware front, I did get not one, not two, but THREE more 3D printers. First, a Creality CR-10, which is lacking some critical feature like automatic bed leveling, but has an obscenely huge build volume. I'll be able to print an entire case on this thing, no problem. I also acquired a fully assembled but used Prusa i3 MK3, which I'll be upgrading to a MK3S as soon as I have a free weekend. And finally... I bought another Prusa i3 MK3S kit, which is en route right now. Short version of the story: I quit my job, and I've had a bunch of side jobs pop up that have been keeping me super busy. One of those side jobs is printing a couple hundred cases for a little embedded Linux box that we use in the Wi-Fi engineering realm (hence the sudden build-out of a print farm). So from a hardware perspective, I'm getting REALLY set up to produce some of these cases if people are interested. I just need to get some time to do the modeling for this project. Right now, the light at the end of the tunnel is mid October.