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  1. PotatoFi

    Macintosh Classic II Restoration

    Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying them! I think I'm going to take your advice about the soft brush. Yes, sadly the worst in my collection. Since this is kinda my "dream Mac", I might swap a CRT in from another Mac? But when it's on, you can't see the burn-in at so maybe I'll just use it as is. Yeah... I've seen this video. I've got my retrobrite process pretty dialed at this point (more on this soon), so I think I'll stick to what I know. I'll document it pretty well here so people can see my methods and the results that they achieve. Thank you! I will! Thank you! Yep, lots of "work"... but I find it to be very relaxing. The worse shape they're in, the more fun. Thanks for bringing this up! I now remember reading somewhere that 6.0.8L added compatibility for the Classic/Classic II, but I'd completely forgotten about it. After seeing your suggestion, I grabbed 6.0.8L images from The Macintosh Repository. After uncompressing the .SIT, I placed the two images on my desktop and wrote them to a 1.44 mb floppy disk with DD in modern macOS and my cheap USB floppy drive. In the Terminal in macOS, start by listing the available disks, and identify which one is the floppy drive: diskutil list macOS had already mounted the disk, so I unmounted it: diskutil umountdisk /dev/disk6 Finally, DD the image to the drive: sudo dd if=6.0.8L\ System\ Startup.img of=/dev/disk6 bs=84 And the results: It looks like this unit has 4 MB of RAM, which is consistent with the 80 MB (!!!) hard drive. So yeah... it has officially booted! Thank you @sixsevenco for the tip... you saved me a lot of time!
  2. PotatoFi

    Macintosh Classic II Restoration

    Time for another update! This will be pretty boring... but it's still an important step. First, I drenched the disassembled drive in 91% Isopropyl alcohol in a Pyrex pan, and gently scrubbed it with a soft toothbrush. Here's a closeup. It's looking a lot better! I alternated between gently scrubbing and rinsing. I even scrubbed the read/write heads, SUPER gently. As soon as it was clean, I took it out to the air compressor and blew as much of the alcohol out as possible. Instead of letting the air compressor fill up, I started using it immediately to avoid hitting the drive with high pressure. Then, I let it air-dry overnight. Remember that Phillips screw that I cammed out of? None of my M3 screws fit, so I determined that it was an M2.5. Three hardware stores later, I found a couple of M2.5's but they're way too long (Anything smaller than M3 is very hard to find in a hardware store in the United States). I screwed on a nut, cut the screw short with some cutters, and then backed the nut off to reform the threads. It worked! The screw head looks stupid but whatever. And here is the reassembled drive! For lubrication, I used Dupont Teflon Silicone Lubricant. I use it on the linear rails on my 3D printer, and I like how clean it stays. It also doesn't get sticky like lithium grease. Floppy disks are extremely satisfying to snap in, and they basically fly out of the drive when you eject manually. Perfect! So... will it read the disk and boot? Well, it will at least read the disk! Curiously this is a 7.0.1 installer disk (Double-Density), but no matter! The drive seems to be working, which is what I wanted. I did pull out my 6.0.8 disk, and this was the result: The Sad Mac error code here is: 0000000F 00007FFF According to the Sad Mac Error Codes page, $000F is "Reserved for Macintosh Compatibility", but it doesn't get into what the second line means. I'm not really worried about it, as I don't even know if my 6.0.8 boot disk is even any good. I think my next step is to make some newer boot disks that I know this Mac can boot up.
  3. PotatoFi

    Macintosh Classic II Restoration

    More progress last night! My goal for the evening was to get it to boot from a floppy disk. First, we need to clean this dust out. Ugh, what a mess. And the cooling fan shroud, once more. After about 10 minutes with the air compressor, it looks better. Still not great, but better. I will thoroughly clean everything when I take it clear apart for retrobrite. Logic board completely cleaned and reinstalled (it will get a recap soon). And the moment of truth... does it power on? Hooray, it does! And the mouse, when plugged in through the keyboard, works just fine! I did decide to take my chances with a floppy disk. The drive would barely even lock the floppy drive down in position. It took a couple of tries to get the floppy to seat all of the way. The drive would seek for a moment, and then give up and painfully push the disk back out with a "X Floppy" icon on the screen. I only tried a couple of times, because I didn't want to snap the eject gear. Clearly, this drive needs to be cleaned (but we already knew that). As I normally do with these machines, I decided to pop the case off and work on cleaning that for a bit to let the CRT bleed off, before extracting the hard drive and floppy drive. I took it outside, and went after it with dishwasher detergent and a soft toothbrush. First, I did a small area on top to see if it made a difference, and it definitely did! On all of the stubborn marks and places that I couldn't scrub, I used a wet paper towel and baking soda. I always use care with this as it acts as a minor abrasive and removes a bit of texture... but losing a tiny bit of texture to have it look completely clean is worth it to me. When I was done and the case was dried, here's what it looked like: So satisfying. I don't feel like I'm going to get lung cancer just by looking at it any more! I'll post a bunch of before and after pics of the case later so you can see the full transformation. But no time for photos... I wanted to get working on that floppy drive! Joel: Says, "No time for photos!" Also Joel: Posts a photo. I'm sure that there has been worse... but this is the dustiest one I've ever encountered, including the Macintosh Plus that I restored (still not working) from the aircraft hangar. Using this video by What's Up TK Here, I disassembled the drive to clean it, but I ran into a problem when I tried to take off the eject mechanism. Does anyone else share my burning hatred of Phillips screws? I tried the rubber band trick, I tried my impact driver, I tried a screw extractor... but eventually, I just gave up and drilled it off. I had the vacuum cleaner right next to the screw to immediately remove metal shavings - those are probably not good for the floppy drive, and this is a prized 1.44 MB drive. I do not want to have to replace it. Drilling off the screw head worked! Curiously, I removed what was left of the screw with my fingers. Figures. It looks like an M2 screw? I'll have to go to the hardware store to see if I can find a replacement. Last photo of the night: That's where I had to call it quits. The drive is now ready for cleaning. My plan is to drench it in isopropyl alcohol, and gently scrub everything down with that soft toothbrush. I'll keep rinsing and scrubbing. I will avoid any direct contact with the read/write heads. If anyone has advice on how to work around these, please let me know. I don't want to risk further damaging this drive.
  4. PotatoFi

    This Does Not Compute SE/30

    One of my favorite YouTubers, This Does Not Compute, posted a video about reviving his Macintosh SE/30. I've watched a ton of his videos, especially regarding Game Boy front light, back light, and bivert mods. I don't know whether he's here on the forums or not. It's a good video, and I don't want to spoil it, so consider giving it a watch. Spoilers after the break. Spoilers begin here! Despite replacing the capacitors, he's still running into "Simasimac", or the strange pattern on the screen. He's no stranger to troubleshooting, but I do wonder if anyone here has some insight that could help him out. I mean, this is an SE/30, after all!
  5. Don't sweat it. Who cares if they're at an angle. Nobody will see them, and they work, which is the most important thing. And those are just tough. Here are some suggestions, keeping in mind that I'm a total novice so this is the blind leading the blind: Tin one (only one) of the pads with a decent amount of solder Position your replacement capacitor near where it needs to go, and grab it with your pliers Heat up the tinned pad with one hand, and slide the new cap into place with the other hand + tweezers, getting it exactly where you want it Remove heat from the tinned pad Congrats, your tiny capacitor will now stay put! Heat up the other side, add a bit of solder, and you're done!
  6. Recently, a Macintosh Classic II came up on eBay for $99 with free shipping. It came with the Macintosh itself, two Apple Keyboard II's, a mouse, a LocalTalk cable, and two LocalTalk transceivers. According to the listing, it would power on and show a "Floppy Disk" icon, but the keyboards and the mouse apparently didn't work. Now, the Classic II has basically been my dream compact Macintosh. Why not the SE/30, you ask? I certainly don't have anything against the SE/30, in fact I would absolutely love to own one. But the PDS slot isn't useful to me due to the price of cards for it. The 16-bit data bus sounds nice, and being able to go for more than 10 MB of RAM I suppose would be cool... but at the end of the day, the Classic II is the one I've always wanted. I decided to take a gamble and buy it. My bet was that the PRAM battery hadn't exploded since there was a floppy disk icon, and that the SCSI drive is probably just stuck. I also laughed at the eBay listing, because he had the keyboard plugged into the LocalTalk transceiver, and the LocalTalk transceiver plugged into who-knows-what. And besides, if the machine didn't boot, there would be no way to test the mouse or the keyboard. It's possible that he fried stuff by plugging them into the wrong ports, but that was a risk I was willing to take. Today, the Macintosh Classic II arrive! Here is is, straight out of the box: Of course, the VERY first thing I did was pop the case off, and check the PRAM battery. The case was super stubborn to get off, unlike my various Pluses and SE's. I was thrilled to see that the PRAM battery hadn't leaked, but surprised to see a wire connecting the VLSI chip and what I think is the ADB IC. Just look at the dust on this thing! I've never seen it as bad as this. For shock value, I'll show you what the board looked like after a quick rinse in the sink. I also scrubbed it with detergent and a toothbrush. I cleaned it more isopropyl alcohol, but didn't get a photo. More on that tomorrow. That blue wire sure is curious, if anyone has any ideas about what that might be, please let me know. Next, I turned my attention back to the case. It looks awful, the worst I've ever seen, and I've restored 6 compact black and white Macs. This will be my 7th restoration. It smells like cigarettes, and it's very greasy. Yikes, I hope I can bring this one back. It is really bad. Fortunately, there are no scratches or cracks. Let's a take a look at the inside that I ignored when I yanked the logic board. This kind of stuff doesn't really gross me out, but it does leave me in awe. You can see why I immediately abandoned my plans to attempt to power it on. Not like this! Check out the fuzzy stuff all over the analog board and CRT: And that's all for now! So here is my current to-do list for this Mac: Blow the dust out of the inside Figure out how I want to clean the analog board, CRT, and neck board (suggestions welcome) Temporarily reassemble and attempt power-on Clean floppy drive Scrub the case, chassis, and all similar parts Attempt to unstick the SCSI drive (nothing to lose) Clean and lubricate floppy drive Retrobrite case (full submersion method) Order tantalum capacitors Install tantalum caps ...and we haven't even gotten to the keyboards yet! I won't be able to work on this for a few days, but I'll post an update as soon as I have one. Thanks for checking this out!
  7. I'm struggling to follow the conversation, which is my responsibility so I deserve nothing here... but if I'm reading this right: The wire wrap is complete You've installed a IIsi NuBus Video Adapter It totally works, except there's a potential conflict with the SE/30 ROM and internal video no longer works Am I reading this correctly?
  8. PotatoFi

    Macintosh Classic II Blues... :/

    Did it work!?
  9. PotatoFi

    SE/30 Fails to Warm Boot

    Additional data point: restarting the SE/30 seems fine, but if you power it off with the power switch, and power it back on, that's when the problem occurs. Apparently, other than that, it's been happily running A/UX all day and accepting Telnet sessions! I am totally jealous, sounds like a sweet little machine!
  10. PotatoFi

    SE/30 Fails to Warm Boot

    I don't think he has access to a scope... is the reset line the same as what gets triggered by the programmer's reset switch?
  11. PotatoFi

    SE/30 Fails to Warm Boot

    Yo, fellow super-old-Macintosh users! I recapped an SE/30 for a good friend of mine, and mailed the board back to him. IT WORKED! He got A/UX installed on it last night, but we're running into a weird problem. It boots up completely fine, but upon reboot, sometimes it will only show the last image on the screen before he flipped the power switch, and will not boot beyond that. If he shuts it down for 30 minutes and boots it back up, it's fine. It only does this when he attempts a warm boot. Any ideas? I feel like it's related to the ROM, so I know he cleaned the ROM card contacts. He also just bought a ROM-inator II which he has not installed yet.
  12. PotatoFi

    Craigslist Mac SE, Mac SE, and Mac Plus

    No issues with the RF paint whatsoever! I've done retrobrite on 5 of these compacts now. No problems with that.
  13. PotatoFi

    Craigslist Mac SE, Mac SE, and Mac Plus

    Thank you! The Plus you are seeing here is a different one; both of these Mac SE's and the Mac Plus were picked up on Craigslist. The dead Mac Plus was given to me by a friend (it was their family computer).
  14. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    Not sure why I just noticed this... but that is a FANTASTIC idea. Much more viable on a desktop 3D printer, too. If someone wants to send a 3.5" external drive my way, I'd be happy to model that. Might not be very fast (my track record so far is pretty bad). I'm ready to take it apart. Can you point me towards this resource?
  15. PotatoFi

    Brightness Knob on Macintosh SE

    One last update: remember that I pulled the "bad" potentiometer out of my Macintosh SE FDHD, and swapped in a known-good knob from a regular Mac SE? I took the old, "bad" pot, rinsed it thoroughly with alcohol while repeatedly turning the knob lock-to-lock, and soldered it back into the Mac SE that I stole the "good" potentiometer from... and it works great now! Moral of the story: always try the easy/obvious stuff first. It was a dirty potentiometer all along.