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PotatoFi

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  1. PotatoFi

    Kinetics Etherport SE Ethernet Adapter

    I've heard some people suggest that newer hardware might not speak half-duplex 10 Mbps Ethernet... but I've had good luck with both my Cisco SG300-10P and my Ubiquiti UniFi In-Wall HD (which has an integrated 4-port switch). I think I also had success with a Linksys WRT54G. I would recommend trying a few unmanaged switches, you can probably find one that speaks half-duplex 10 Mbps pretty fast.
  2. PotatoFi

    SCSI to Ethernet Adapter on New Hardware

    So admittedly, I haven't read through this entire thread... but I just wanted to say WELL DONE! There is a huge need for this kind of hardware, I'm thrilled that you took on the task and figured it out. Amazing work. 10/10 am interested in getting a hot air station so I can do SMD work to make some of these. I'll be following the thread closely!
  3. PotatoFi

    Kinetics Etherport SE Ethernet Adapter

    Thanks ArmorAlley! I have located a driver package at VintageApple.org, but I haven't tried it yet. It's an 800k HQX so it will take a bit of work to get it over to my machine. The very first thing I did was design and 3D print some plastic standoffs. The inner diameter is just large enough for an M3 to cut threads, so there's an M3 on each end. They only reason I did this is that I don't have a supply of nylon standoffs. I was a bit worried about keying for the ribbon cable, but Sam pointed out that red always goes to Pin 1, and "P1" is clearly marked on both boards. Since my SCSI2SD 5.0b has to be moved from the expansion slot, I decided to design and print up a new bracket for it: Everything fit perfectly, until I realized that the SCSI connect was oriented incorrectly, and the stock cable isn't long enough to reach if you have to put a single twist in it. Ultimately, I ended up tearing it back down and flipping the whole bracket and SCSI2SD over, which then meant that the LED cable was too short... but at this point, I just wanted to get it up and running, so I used the extension wires from the last mounting location for the LED. I think I'll try to redesign this mount at some point, so you don't have to use an extension cable. Not sure yet. Everything installed. You can see how the SCSI2SD bracket is now "upside down". And here's the transceiver connected! It was pretty late by this point, so I tried plugging it in to see if it would "just work"... no luck. Tonight, I'll get software for it and see if it all works!
  4. My good friend @sclements sent me a box that was SUPPOSED to have just an Apple CD-ROM drive... but included some other awesome goodies. One of the notable ones was this, a Kinetics Etherport SE Ethernet adapter! Also includes was a CentreCOM 210T Twisted Pair Transceiver, which plugs into the AUI interface on the Kinetics. I'd also like to note that while the controller card says "Kinetics", the expansion card that goes on the back of the Mac says "Shiva". There's a but of surface rust around the AUI and BNC connectors, so I decided to scrub at it with some isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs a bit. Okay, that helped a little bit. It's certainly cleaner now. If you have any ideas about how to get this rust really cleaned off, I'm open to advice. I can't really take it apart anymore. Now, it's time to take apart my Macintosh SE FDHD! This is my "original" compact black-and-white Mac, the first I ever received and restored. It's still my "best" machine, boasting 4 MB of RAM and a SCSI2SD 5.1b. Sadly, this Ethernet adapter will displace the 3D printed backed for the SCSI2SD, so I'm going to have to figure out where to move it to. I'm thinking that I'll design and 3D-print a bracket to put it where the hard drive used to be. Next, I pulled out the logic board, and slotted the Etherport into the PDS slot. Unfortunately, this is where I had to stop for the night, as I need some plastic standoffs to properly mount the Etherport to the logic board. I measured the distance between the boards, and it looks to be 16mm. So I need to either 3D-print or source standoffs. I'll update the thread when I do!
  5. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration

    I meant to post these earlier. Better late than never! Quantity 10 - 47uF 16v Capacitors Quantity 1 - 1uF 50v Capacitor Quantity 1 - 470uF 16v Axial Capacitor - Would have rather gone with Panasonic here, and the lead diameter barely fit through the board, but it did work Quantity 1 - 220uF 16v Axial Capacitor - Would have rather gone with Panasonic here, lead diameter was totally fine As for what goes where, this post has a great photo reference. I also always have to look up tantalum SMD polarity to make sure I get it right, so here's that:
  6. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration

    Thank you everyone for the compliments! Much appreciated. I enjoy these restoration logs quite a bit, it's a fun chance to "hang out" with people who like the same stuff that I do, and hopefully encourage others to dig into similar projects. On to today's update! This morning, I plugged the machine in. On the display, I got this: On the audio spectrum, something very significant happened. Instead of trying to explain it' I'll just show a video. IMG_0228lq.mp4 I'm really at a loss about how to describe that. I've seen the term "Chime of Death" a lot, maybe this is it? I'm not sure. It doesn't seem like a ROM issue to me, because if you remember, I could see a floppy disk "?" when I did my initial power-on, and this sounds a like like a "chime" to me, which I think comes from the ROM. I decided to investigate the most obvious problem first: DNS. It's always DNS, right? Well, it didn't end up being DNS, so I investigated the next most obvious thing: RAM. First, I reseated the RAM. No change. Next, I dug into my box of spare parts to try some different RAM, and was very surprised at what I had laying around. The most interesting was the 8-chip sticks in the middle; they were in a plastic bag labeled "SE/30", which reminded me that these originally came out of Bank B on this machine. One of the slots is broken (more on that later), so I had removed the RAM immediately and never put it back in. I decided to swap these four sticks out with the RAM that was in Bank A. I also discovered a PRAM battery from RetroFixes.com! I ordered one earlier today for this machine... oops. Oh well, always good to have a spare. I went ahead and installed this one, although I did manage to break part of the battery clip. And now for the power-on with the 4 sticks of 8-chip Apple RAM! There's good news, and bad news. The good news is that the machine doesn't make that horrible sound anymore! It also once again shows a blinking "?". The bad news is that it's exhibiting the exact same patterns as before, so a recap didn't fix that. I feel like this is a pretty common issue, but I don't remember the name for it. I did consult the Dead Mac Scrolls, and it doesn't mention this issue, so I have some research to do. I do think that it must have something to do with video generation.
  7. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration

    Up until now, I thought that the twisting method was lazy and dangerous... but I was clearly wrong. I tried it on all 8 remaining caps, and it worked beautifully. Half the time, the cap would come clean off the board, leaving the legs attached to the pad. The other half of the time, the legs would pull out of the capacitor, leaving the plastic base on the logic board. I'd snip off the legs with flush cutters, and remove the base. After removing the capacitor, here are three different stages of pad preparation: cleaned an ready for a new capacitor, only cleaned with alcohol, and not cleaned at all. After removing the cap, the first thing I did was swab everything with isopropyl alcohol, being careful to not tug at the pad. Next, I'd liberally coat the two pads with flux paste. Next, I heated up each pad with the iron. The combination of heat and and flux seemed to quickly burn through the awful junk on the pad, and dislodge the leftover pins from the capacitor. Here you can see that only the pad on the left is done, but the old pin has floated away. Next, I dragged some desoldering braid across the pad with the iron on top. The desoldering wick seems to have a very lightly abrasive action on the pad, which cleans them up nicely and removes any old solder. Each pad got a couple of quick passes with the desoldering wick, maybe a bit more if they were really nasty. Finally, and fast-forwarding to all three of these being done, I clean everything with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. Everything else all cleaned up. Here you can see one of the pads that I lifted when I was attempting to desolder the old caps. Okay, time to solder! I find SMD stuff to be very easy, once you know "the trick". I always start by tinning just one of the pads. Next, bring my parts to the board. Next, I heat the tinned pad, and slide the part into place. When I have it where I want it, I remove the heat before letting go with my tweezers. Finally, after double-checking that polarity is correct, I go back and solder down the other side. After soldering everything in, I needed to deal with the mess I'd made at C13. One of the pads was completely gone, and the other pad was moving around, but was still connected when I tested it with a multimeter. I decided to tack the capacitor down to the floating pad, and then use a small piece of solid wire to connect the positive terminal to the nearby via. Here's the wire: And here's what it looked like, after solder. It's messy, but there's continuity where there needs to be. I added a dab of hot glue to keep it in place. C13 is a +5v supply filter, so if things don't work, or stop working, I'll know where to go first. And I'll be ordering some wire to have it for next time, or to rework this. Once I was done soldering everything, I washed the board down with alcohol and scrubbed around the capacitors with a toothbrush to remove any leftover flux. Here's the completed board: And it's installed in the computer, but I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to try powering it on. It's had most of the afternoon and the whole evening to dry, but better safe than sorry. I just noticed that the machine is missing the hard drive caddy, expansion slot bracket, and SCSI ribbon cable. I'll need to track those three things down. Plans going forward: Test for power-on and boot up from floppy Tear down Inspect analog board, recap as needed Clean and lubricate floppy drive Clean everything Retrobrite case Source hard drive caddy, SCSI cable, and expansion bracket Install SCSI2SD Install more RAM (either 64mb or 128mb)
  8. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE/30 Restoration

    I planned to do a restoration thread like I usually do... but sadly, this one got off to a very rough start. If you have SMD recapping and pad repair, I could really use some advice! Read on... --- I was in Portland, OR a couple of months ago to teach a class, and decided to check Craigslist for Macs while I was there. I found an ad for an SE/30 for $100 with no images and almost no description: "untested, for parts". I emailed the seller and asked for more information, but he wasn't really willing to say anything more about it, other than "it's untested, that is why it is so cheap". Based on that, I asked to come look at it, but kept my expectations in check... this one screamed "blown up PRAM battery". When I arrived, I found that the seller was very much into vintage computing, but claimed that he just hadn't tested the machine. He was willing to pop the back cover off to check and remove the PRAM battery which I very much appreciated, so I gave him asking price for his machine. He did mention that he has a YouTube channel, which I went and found. Here's where he received the SE/30. It looks like it had a Micron Xceed videocard with it, which he sadly did not include with the Mac. I'm not sure why it wasn't installed in the machine, but it has the bracket that my SE/30 is missing. Here's a photo of it that I snapped in my hotel room that evening: A few days later, I got it home and did a power-on test, here are the results. There was actually a floppy icon blinking back there, but it definitely would not boot up. I knew the caps were probably a mess, so I shut it back down, removed the logic board, and gave it a good scrub with soap, water, and a toothbrush. I chased the water out with alcohol, and left it to dry. After letting it dry and trying again, I got a different pattern on the screen. At this point, I took the obvious next step, and ordered new tantalum capacitors for the board. A friend of mine had sent me another SE/30 board to recap, so I ordered two sets of components. At this point in time, I'd already successfully recapped both an SE/30 and a Classic II for him, and now had a second SE/30 logic board to recap for him. The parts arrived, and I knocked the whole thing out in about 30 minutes. Here's one of the caps from that job. I was (key word, was) feeling VERY confident about my recapping skills at this point! Tonight, it was finally time to recap my own SE/30 and see if it would boot! Curiously, I noticed that one of the old caps on the board was kinda crooked: Note the mess around these capacitors. This is a bit worrisome... but the traces look okay everywhere, so we should be good, right? I got to work, desoldering the old capacitors. Here's my usual process (more details about how I do it are available here): 1. Clean around the capacitor with cotton swabs and alcohol, scrubbing as much corrosion as possible from the pads 2. Hit each pad with a flux rework pen 3. Grasp the capacitor with tweezers, and heat one pad, while very gently rocking the capacitor up and away from that pad 4. Switch to the other side and do the same, going back and forth until the cap eventually is disconnected from both pads and can be lifted away. But, luck was not on my side... I just couldn't get the pad to flow, no matter what I did. And then, disaster struck: WHOA, okay, okay. Only one pad lifted and there's still continuity... I can fix this! Let's just move to another one and come back to this later... HECK'N. LIKE SERIOUS HECK HERE. I MEAN HEEEEEEEECK. And... that's where I'm at on it tonight. Four successful, almost completely uneventful logic board recaps... and then this. I very carefully tried a couple of other capacitors (there are 8 left on the board), but I just could not get anything to flow, no matter what I tried. So I stopped before causing any more damage. So... I need advice: How can I repair the two pads at C13? One pad is totally gone, and the other is barely hanging on. Where can I buy copper to cut a new pad? What kind of epoxy do I need to stick them back down, and where do I get it? How do I desolder the rest of the caps without causing more damage? My usual tricks just aren't working here. If I need to run wires, what kind should I use and where do I get it? I have a typical soldering station at my disposal, I little Hakko FX-888D. If you have any advice for me... I'd love to hear it.
  9. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Restoration

    This seriously needs it's own thread. Not in a "YOU'RE HIGHJACKING MY THREAD. GET OFF MY LAWN" kind of way, but a "This deserves to be discussed a LOT more than here" kind of way!
  10. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    The rear panel could absolutely be laser-cut. Right now, the slot is 2mm, but that is insanely easy to adjust. As for general holes inside for drives and components, you bet. We'd basically just need to figure out what we'd want in there. The sky is the limit. I like the idea of it being a modular platform of some kind... something where people could install whatever accessories they want. Hard drives, CD-ROM drives (would require front modifications), SCSI2SD's, SCSI ethernet adapters, modems, etc.
  11. PotatoFi

    3D Print Replica HD 20 SC Enclosure?

    I finally had some time today to work on this! Here's what I did: Rounded corners. Each edge on the case has a slightly different radius, so I decided to pick a middle ground and stick with that. So it's more artistic then perfect replica, but it simplified modeling a lot. I could go back and make it accurate at some point, probably just an hour or so. This is where Fusion360 would have been way easier... SketchUp sucks at fillets. Carved out the box. It's empty now! The inside is absolutely NOT dimensionally accurate, but considering that this is intended to hold stuff other than the original contents, I decided that it didn't matter. Cut out the back. Going with HP's idea of modularity, I cut out the back so it can be printed as a separate part. That way, someone could build a completely custom plate back there for connectors and stuff. So next, I need to print one! I decided to let go of the Creality CR-10... I tried a few test prints on it, and found the user experience to be frustrating without the quality-of-life features on my small fleet of Prusa MK3S printers. Because the bed on the MK3S is shallower, I can't print "full depth" cases, but I should be able to print them at the same depth as a Mac base. Lemmeh know what you think!
  12. PotatoFi

    Macintosh SE Restoration

    I used whatever is offered by retrofixes.com. Whenever I pass a Mac on to a friend, I give them a very strong warning about leaving the battery in for an extended period of time, but I figure any battery should be okay for 5 or 10 years, right? Interested to hear your thoughts. Yeah... will Bolo run on a black-and-white Mac?
  13. PotatoFi

    3D Print MessagePad 2000 Battery Tray

    What kind of machine? Injection-molding? Looking at this part, it appears to be designed with injection-molding or just straight-up perfect replication of the original part in mind. That's the biggest mistake I see in the world of 3D printing. As with any manufacturing method, it's important to optimize the part for printing. Same is true for CNC milling. It would be interesting to see the battery compartment in a MessagePad 2000, and work within those constraints to make a part that is optimized for printing. It's a good thing I don't have a MessagePad 2000... I don't need another modeling project to distract me from what I already have in-progress!
  14. PotatoFi

    "Cheap Networking" for System 6 and 7 Macs

    That's exactly what it sounds like to me. Double-check your DNS settings in MacTCP. DNS1 should be your home router, DNS2 should be a public DNS server like 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8. In fact, you probably can skip your home router and go straight for public DNS.
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