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Tantalum Cap sizes for LCIII

Hey guys,

I ordered tantalum caps for my LC III and didn't think to look at the size codes of the caps before I bought them.

The 100uf and 10uf caps are size B, which is freaking tiny. The 47uf caps are size C which is more reasonable.

My question is whether the tiny B caps will work assuming I can manage to solder them properly.

 
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Yeah, the B sizes work. I am actually partial to B over C. In some instances, C can be a tight fit. So yeah, what unity said. :)

 
I do not know what these "B" and "C" sizes refer too, but you need to make sure that they are up to handling the voltages. Most are 10V or 12V, which are small caps. I tend to put in 15V or 16V caps, which are bigger in size, but better able to take voltage spikes and longer life in its service.

But bigger caps does not always mean better caps. You need to look at it's voltage rating and material used in it's construction.

 
Interesting diagram. But I must say that this is not a perfect list, and I suspect it is for just 1 manufacturer.

Given the same µf and V for tant-caps, two different manufacturers created two different sized caps, and even several different sized caps. My experience shows that there are little standards in size and even shapes.

Many prefer the Yellow or Orange tant-caps. I prefer the Black ones, only for appearance purposes. To me they look like they belong there! And they enhance the appearance of the board where the Yellow or Orange distracts it. But that is my opinion on that matter.

Going back to my first point, in comparing different manufacturers' of tant-caps, in being of different sizes and shapes, Size A, Size B, Size C all goes out the window. This would be valid only if we were talking about a specific name brand and the few caps they would make in those physical sizes.

But my advise on this, if any, is this:

Measure the space from the exposed soldered tabs of the traces the cap sits on, and get the cap that the ends fit on that. In this point, what discussion of Size A, Size B, Size C goes out the window once again and you have a cap that fits properly.

But how to solder the cap on the board? Aye, there's the rub! Put some ointment on it...

Use a syringe of solder paste, and dab a tiny amount of solder onto the exposed traces, and then with a pair of tweezers set the tant-cap on the board. Hold down the tant-cap down with the tweezers, hold it down, not press down on it! Dab a tiny bit of solder on the tant-cap's metal tabs. Then touch the solder and the metal tab with a hot soldering iron tip for a few seconds until it melts the solder. Pull the soldering iron tip and let the tant-cap and the solder cool down. After it cools down, you can do the same thing with the other side of the tant-cap, and tant-cap is now soldered to the board!

This takes time and practice. But once you got it down, you will be soldering surface mounted caps with ease.

 
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