TAM

[HAL2001]

The guy with all the parts in The Netherlands is on this site: http://www.xs4trade.net/index.php?cPath=1_5_22. I refurbished 2 TAM's in my time. I've got a lot of software and manuals, did a lot of research but I always worked on TAM's that worked. What you're doing is a whole different ball game. Good luck. If you ever get it to work and if you need software: just contact me. You need a driver for the crescendo card i.e. I've got it. And whatever you do; don't try to install OSX. It will damage your TAM. 

 

[ScutBoy]

As long as we're talking TAMs, if anyone has the pen/pencil set from the TAM that they want to sell, let me know. I think that's the one piece I'm missing from the "set".

 

[haplain]

Sadly don't have any extra of those but have a proto TAM I'm considering selling. It's a pretty neat machine. 

 

[HAL2001]

Are you sure? People always claim they have a complete set but in my experience almost everyone has lost some bits and pieces.

 

[haplain]

I have 1 brand new in box set so I know it's all there. Even have the receipt for it. 

The proto TAM components but really in great shape and an awesome machine. 

 

[falen5]

how we doing people.........9 hours in work to calm down

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I thought seems the board had an acid leak, that might have caused a short and blown the psu......so went to try another....pity it was 8 amp and not 6.3 like the one that was in it.

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that's why I did not plug in the tam......was not sure what would happen. I have it on film (the dam thing going bang) and you can see how I was about to plug it in ...on my lap.....and then opted to

put it on the table for fear of what actually happened............just as well I did....I could of been in hospital with some serious burns........ in some serious places !!!

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its not the end of the world.

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im ordering another psu.........its for a pc...but if the board is the same I plan on swapping the wiring from the dead psu to the new one.

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[falen5]

THIS LOOKS CLOSE

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Delta-Electronics-DPS-150GB-A-Apple-614-0039-150W-Power-Supply-150-Watt-/141661288905?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20fbabb9c9

 

[falen5]

took out the blown components, looks like 4 caps and what I think is a rectifer

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rest of the components look 'non exploded'

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might be worth ordering up these parts and some correct fuses. Why is the board covered in that white glue?. is it to keep parts still?, stop ratteling?.....heat dispersion

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looks bad.........but ill give it a wash and see how it comes up. Looking at the soot on the board it seems that it moved away from these components. There does not appear to be any other visible damage anywhere else

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any advice is very welcome at this stage

 

[falen5]

actually done some research. The 2 small caps are varistors. The chip is a rectifier. I took the rubber covers off the 2 varistors and managed to get the serial numbers. The second one has its lower section (between the 2 pins) blown out completely,   far worse than the first. The switch for selecting 230v/110v wires are soldered in amongst these varistors.  I made sure it was on 230 volt.

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thinking about it... the guy who sold it to me made a point of telling me about this even though he had it set.........   Ive bought many things with switchable voltage but have never had a case where I was told about the 230volt switch 2 or 3 times.

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he sold it to me for 150 knowing if I got it working it could get 1/2 grand......................starting to think he knew more that he said........

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anyway I have the values of all the blown parts............will order them up.....along with a bucket of 6.3amp fuses.

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with the correct fuse it should not explode again? ....or could it............maybe a 4 amp fuse would be better.

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gave it a wash and it appears that it was the 2 varistors , rectifier and maybey the 2 470uf caps that blew.

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feck it....will buy the similar board and if it is too different to this one then hopefully it will have these components

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[unity]

To be honest, wrong voltage setting is what I though caused this. But I am not too knowledgable on such things. I did check your voltage switch location and while your supply is not the same as mine, relative to mine it would be in the correct 230v position.

This sucks

 

[falen5]

just spotted something in the previous pictures I posted here.

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on the previous page (3) look at the 2 pictures I took where I got out the fuse. In the picture on the right... look at the left side of the picture...under the caps.........

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the board has a light layer of black soot...........that's before I plugged it in!!!!!!!!!!!

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and the guy I bought it from ,pointed out to me, more than once about it being switched to 230volt

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he blew it when he brought it back from the states.........that's why the fuse was blown..........

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I got it , found a blown fuse.......didn't look for anything else, put in an 8amp fuse and blew it up again.

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I did the exact same thing on one of my 128k's about 2 years ago.....its on here somewhere

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and I got the exact same result

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come on Stephen in Dublin...........if your reading this...own up.........you plugged it in at 110 didn't you!!!!!!

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weh hey

 

[unity]

You are right, cant miss it now. Its been blown before. By replacing the fuse, you just doubled up on the damage again even with the right voltage set. Ouch!

 

[falen5]

right voltage unity but an 8 amp fuse..........ouch is right!!

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is there any hope in replacing the blown parts and it ever working again?..........I have no idea what so ever what other damage this might have caused elsewhere

 

[unity]

Same supply as a 6500 as mentioned, or at least looks the same. My concerns at this point would be damage to the Bose audio board in the power supply as well as damage to the TAM. I am basing this on the previous owner powering it up under 110. Hard to say what made it down the line.

If it was me, I would hunt down a different supply. I think someone linked to one above. Probably the safest bet. But others may know how far the damage can go.

 

[falen5]

never thought of that unity......he probably did have it plugged in.............saying that when I blew my 128k I was finished all work  and it was  all together (board connected, drives , everything). After blowing power board I  replaced with good board, tested it and everythinmg else was allright.

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ive been sitting here trying to figure out what to do. Ill go with your advice...new similar model and hope the boards are the same....although the amps on the 12+ on the psu on ebay is lower than on mine.

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cheers man

 

[unity]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Astec-AA19360-Apple-P-N-614-0039-150W-Power-Supply/131507018040

That one certainly looks the part. But again not the same ratings. I dont think the TAM draws too much to worry about anyway.

 

[techknight]

the MOVs are designed to clamp on overvoltage. The previous attempt may have shorted them out when the fuse blew. 

Soon as you powered it up again, it just finished off the MOVs. 

Measure the pads where the main filter caps go, and check the resistance. IF there are no shorts there, its safe to power up without the MOVs as long as the voltages are set right. 

 

[falen5]

unity - been looking at the 614-0039   model and  614-0060 - cant see any difference....still don't know what to do

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techknight - thanks for the info - appreciate it - but as usual I havnt a dam clue what MOV's are - are they the varistors?.  main filters are the big 470uf caps?...just checked for a short and no beep on either 470uf caps.

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what about the rectifier.....it looks like it has a burn mark on the back......could I do damage by trying it again.....is there a way to check if it is ok with just a multimeter?

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looking at the rest of the psu I have the feeling it is ok...no proof...just a feeling......I think the power got no further than the damaged components

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the brother in cork has promised me an osiloscope...and said he would show me how to use it.....

edit - metal oxide varistor....mov.......im becoming too dam lazy and asking too many questions.........google is awesome .....sorry for the laziness people

 

[falen5]

parts ordered

 

[techknight]

The bridge rectifier is probably ok. Did you test it with the diode check on the DMM? If its ok then its safe to throw it back in, throw the filter caps back in and another fuse. It looks like the rectifier just got blasted with soot from the MOVs, thats all. 

it should take off and work.