Resoldering contacts on the analog board ?

[srieck]

After verifying a good logic board (runs fine in my SE), my next step to getting my SE/30 in shape seems to be resecuring the solder points on the analog board.

I may take this to a pro to do but I'm imagining that white protector cover (case side) on the analog board comes off easily ? And therefore it "might" be possible to do this without fully extracting the board ? Is that nuts ? I'd assume a risk of shock unless there's some reason this could work?

Just checking...

 

[phreakout]

Just make sure you don't resolder the analog board while it is still plugged in. Otherwise, you should be perfectly safe enough to attempt a resolder. It would be best for you to completely remove the analog board assembly before resoldering. That way you can pop the plastic rivets out of that white cardboard without bending it.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[srieck]

Thanks. What's the easiest way to get the board out ?

 

[phreakout]

After you remove the logic board, start by disconnecting the raster board on the back of the crt by very gently rocking and pulling it straight off. Then you unscrew the small green wire that attaches to the chassis from the casing of the power supply. Next, unplug the P1, P2, P4 and P5 connectors. Then, you'll need to remove the anode cap (suction cup) from the side of the crt. The easiest way to do that is to fold back one side of the suction cup and push on one side of the clip connector until you see half of it come out. Then you can move the clip the other direction and it will come out.

On the rear side of the analog board, you'll see 4 screws securing the analog board to the metal frame (chassis). Unscrew the 4 screws. The analog board will be loose enough to remove. You'll need to both lift up on the top right hand corner (from the upright point-of-view) and gently but firmly pry on the metal frame to get the entire board assembly out. One part of the metal frame will be caught on a corner of the casing for the power supply, near the power switch, which is why I said to pry on the metal frame until it's clear.

Once removed from the chassis, there will be 4 screws holding the power supply to the analog board. Remove those screws and also unplug the P3 connector. Finally, there will be 5 black plastic rivets securing the white cardboard to the back of the analog board. Simply pull up on the rivet heads to remove them and separate the white cardboard. Now you should have the solder points visible.

Once resoldering is completed, simply reverse order the take apart procedure and double check that everything looks in place. You'll be good to go from there.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[srieck]

Man...I'm just too chicken to mess with that CRT. There's a guy who runs a tv repair shop down the road. He said he'd help me out with it so we'll see what happens.

 

[phreakout]

Don't be. I've worked in and around the crt and analog board hundreds of times. Not once have I ever gotten electrocuted. I've even taken apart an SE/30 after 1 minute of powering down. The larger amount of electricity has been dissipated by the bleed resistor.

Now large screen crt TV sets, on the other hand, those are more dangerous, since the power is much higher and you do run into a particular model without that bleeder circuit. Even TV sets from the 1920s through the early 1970s have more chances of fatality than your SE/30. How else have these old sets been nicknamed the "widow maker"?

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[JDW]

Man...I'm just too chicken to mess with that CRT.

Don't be. I've worked in and around the crt and analog board hundreds of times. Not once have I ever gotten electrocuted.

phreakout, your sage words of advice might as well have been spoken into the air during an electrical storm because none of the CRT Chickens out there have ever listened to reason nor will they now. Our very own Professor Tom Lee at Stanford University provided some excellent advice which I have trumpeted many times over the past few years. And yet, this silly topic keeps rearing its ugly head. Perhaps it needs to be made a sticky under the title of "CRT Danger & Fear-Mongering" so people will finally take note.

This will be the last time I say it, you chickens...

Step-1) With the machine powered on, crank the knob under the faceplate on your compact Mac so the screen is at Full Brightness.

Step-2) Yank the power cable at back.

Step-3) Open the Mac and do your job without worry of death by CRT shock.

And for those of you who are still not satisfied and demand a technical essay on why all the talk about CRT Danger is little more than fear-mongering:

http://lowendmac.com/tech/crt_danger.html

 

[srieck]

Yeah I'd like to see that as a sticky. Very good article. Thanks for pointing that one out and sorry to dwell on covered topics.

 

[srieck]

One interesting point...

I was able to get those plastic pins that hold in that white plastic sheet over the analog board VERY easily by gently easing them out with needle nose pliers.

After that I just laid the SE/30 on it's side and resoldered the contact points no problem.

I suppose there is a potential risk from the voltages in the caps so I made sure never actually touch the thing (I was so chicken I actually wore heavy rubber gloves...but that's just me)

Fixed my SE/30 completely!