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Lisa 1 mouse and Mac M0100 mouse repair info

Well in case anyone needs the part numbers (the IR emitter was easy as someone has posted it here in the past and a quick google search found it, but the receiver wasn't so clear cut) so I figured I'd make this post.

Remember to replace the receiver you will need to completely de-solder the cage from the PCB including the header connector so that only the resistors are left. Once that is done you can carefully press the two locking tabs on receiver holding frame out to remove frame and the receivers. Since the IR transmitters can be removed and installed with the cage still installed on the PCB, a reassembly trick is to remove them and reinstall them last to make lining up the legs and PCB easier for the receivers. Make sure you point the emitter in the right direction towards the receiver. Also a tip, if you have a dual channel oscilloscope and a 5v supply you can easily test the mouse outside of the Lisa. You don't even need to set a trigger so you can see the waveforms as you manually move the wheels. The pin out is on the PCB reverse side.

Why do I need this information you may ask... once you verify your cable is fine and use your cellphone camera in the dark with a 5v lab supply to verify the IR transmitters are good it most likely will be the receivers. I had two mice with bad up/down receivers (one Lisa and one Mac 128k).

Here are the parts...

IR Receiver - OPL550 TT Electronics Photo IC Sensor
IR Transmitter - OP240A High Intensity 890nm

I got mine from mouser since they are pretty cheap and offer basic shipping so I ordered 10 of each which gives me 5 sets. Remember each mouse uses two sets if you are keeping spares for the future.

Cheers.
Corey
 
@Corey986
Thanks, bro. Actually, I'm currently replicating an identical Lisa 1 mouse. But I'm still deciding whether to use the internal components of the M0110 or make everything from scratch.
 

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Thanks, this was very helpful!

I'm having the issue of no left/right movement with my 1984 M0100 mouse, and I figured out a way to test it without needing an oscilloscope. I connected ground and power to the DB9 connector pins 1 and 2, then connected 2 LEDs between ground and pins 4 and 5. I removed the wheel from the mouse, and by blocking the sensor I was able to determine I have a bad OP550. When I block the light from the emitter on the left side the LED turns on when blocked and off when not blocked, as it should. But on the right side the LED is always on, even if the beam is not blocked. I can get it to shut off if I shine a very bright light on it, so clearly the right one is bad. I just ordered a replacement and some spares. The OPL550 was out of stock, so I ordered the OPL550A, which should work fine.
 
Hi, are you able to give more information about your repair, I have an Apple II mouse with no left or right movement too. Thanks
 
Never mind, got it, used an oscilloscope and the right position is not working.
 

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Thanks Corey. I had posted something similar 3 years ago on the Lisalist forum. I used an OPL560 IR sensor which did the trick.

Recently, I also had a similar problem with the track zero interrupt sensor of an ST-506 disk drive in a 5MB Profile. See here. In that case, the IR emitter was faulty. I used an SPX4251 which also worked
 
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