• Hello MLAers! We've re-enabled auto-approval for accounts. If you are still waiting on account approval, please check this thread for more information.

JB Weld + broken TiBook hinge = success

So I came back to the Floodgap Orbiting HQ after visiting the folks, took out my TiBook/867 and promptly dropped it on the floor, right hinge down. I picked it up and the right hinge stayed on the floor, with a nice hole in the display where it had attached, stretching the two halves of the display. Because this is a family board, I will refrain from the
vent.gif
comments made by me at that time.

A quick test showed the display was undamaged internally, but it was obviously unbalanced.

The problem is that the rotating element, which was the one that came off the hinge, is under a lot of tension when the top opens and closes. This should be of little surprise to anyone who has tried to repair them before or used the kits to fix the tension so they stop stripping and cracking.

My first attempt was to use (what I thought was) a sufficiently strong Loctite resin epoxy. After 24 hours of cure, it successfully opened, apparently intact. I closed it and the hinge tore out of the display again. Neighbours learned a few new words.

A second attempt with a different slower-set epoxy, plus some cyanoacrylate to improve adhesion, similarly resulted in lots of cussing.

The third attempt was with JB Weld, which is a metal-reinforced epoxy. I'd used this before to repair a broken Commodore SX-64 handle and it is almost the last word in high strength epoxies (ignore the people saying "Devcon B" in the back, that stuff smells like hell), but I was a little hesitant here because this was a one-way trip; you can't get it off with anything short of a jackhammer. I mixed up a quantity, let it stand for an hour or so, and then scooped a bit into the display to mate with the broken hinge piece, sculpted a "restraining sandwich" around it, and then smoothed the polymer around the sides of the wounded display to hold it together. To prevent it from getting onto the bottom half and fusing the laptop closed, I put a paper towel between the halves (in retrospect polyurethane sheeting would probably have been a better idea), and made sure to scrape away weld compound from the rotating portion of the hinge to prevent it from polymerizing that together too. The first attempts with the resin epoxy actually proved advantageous as they had partially penetrated the display and sealed it internally, safely stopping the JB Weld slurry from entering the LCD or backlight. I let this stand for 24 hours, and here is the result:

http://www.floodgap.com/iv/931

This opens and closes like a charm. No cracks!

After I put it together, I discovered that the impact had introduced a slight bend in the display so it's a touch cockeyed, and it needs "encouragement" to latch. Not much I can do about that, but the point is, it works and I can use the Book again. So if you've whacked your TiBook's hinges and you feel like a challenge, JB Weld is your compound. Just don't expect it to look pretty.

 
Not bad.

I was going to reply with "why don't you just replace part for part?", but then I went to ifixit.com, saw the prices and just gulped. You would be looking at replacing the top and bottom cases ($150-$200 and $50-$80), clutch cover ($4.95), and left & right hinge mounts ($19.95 each). So altogether you'd be looking at close to $305 to fix it all. But you ended up fixing your problem for probably about $5-$10 using the JB Weld; I hope it lasts a long time. Keep us posted to see how long it lasts.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 
TiBook hinges are ridiculously expensive - I don't really know how they became so pricey!

Nice work, and good to see you've been liberal in your application of JB Weld; not pretty but it has to be that way. I'm also a fan of the stuff, having essentially been the key in helping me to create my G5-case Hackintosh. It also doesn't stink or do many nasty things when you get it on your hands.

JB

 
Yeah, the parts cost was just unbelievable when I was trying to decide what I wanted to do. For not much more I could've bought a whole "new" unit, and kept this one for spare parts. As it was, the whole shooting match cost me maybe $30 at Home Despot with the two other failed attempts, and a couple hours' time forming it and making sure the compound stayed where it was put.

Truly, JB Weld certainly stinks much less than some of the more ... aromatic high-strength epoxies. I learned from my previous repairs with it that you need to use a lot of it to get a satisfactory hold, and to mix it thoroughly or the hardener doesn't work right, leaving a brittle join. Serendipitously, it does mostly match the colour, and another nice property is it does not expand during the drying process, unlike some other polymer adhesives. What you leave is what you get. And I agree it's much less dangerous than some other ones to handle; it just washes off with soap as long as it's not set.

 
It would be good to know how it holds up in the longer term, since, as JB Weld is so cheap and so readily available, it might then become the tool of choice for certain repairs. And it's arguably a better colour for many of our purposes than are other epoxies.

 
1 drop of model paint and you can make any epoxy any color, good luck with that repair, I hope it holds up

 
I did this with mine a year or so back (with JB Weld) and actually reinforced it much more than you did and it still didn't last very long. Opened it up one day and SNAP.

 
might I suggest some small wood screws for the future

nah it will hold up for a while if your mindful of it, once it goes snap then drive some "piano hinge" screws into it }:)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is JB Weld the strongest solid epoxy you guys would recommend that doesn't produce nauseating fumes?

A project I'm working on requires me to mate two flat brushed metal surfaces (one surface is stainless steel, the other is aluminum) to one another and I need something that will give me the strongest bond possible. The best idea I could come up with was solid epoxy, but I wasn't sure which one to use that won't produce fumes that will incapacitate me and my cat/dog as it cures.

 
I had the same idea, but I'm something of a spaz, so using a torch would most likely end with either me in a burn ward, or the house burning to the ground.

Any other helpful opinions re: solid expoxy for metal/metal bonding? I'm interested in any reasonable ideas/suggestions/resources/experiences people have had, etc...

 
its difficult enough to non "weld" two flat surfaces, the requirement of no fumes greatly complicates things, if its "just for looks" get contact cement

what is the reason behind this "need"

 
No, it's not for looks, it's very much for function.

I was tasked with this after an armature in the lab spontaneously ripped itself loose from the bracket onto which it was mounted, destroying about $300 of equipment, as well as trashing the armature. The steel screws tore the threads right out of the aluminum bracket when the failure occurred. No, we hadn't exceeded the weight limit for the armature nor the bracket, it was well within tolerances. I spoke to some engineers at the company that makes the bracket as well as the armature and they couldn't explain why it happened. Their best suggestion was to augment the screws with a solid epoxy at the point where the steel attachment plate for the armature meets the aluminum mounting bracket.

I'm working on this at home since we really don't have any extra space to spare at the lab (as our budget shrinks so does our available square footage). As such, I want to use the strongest possible solid epoxy that won't produce fumes which will gas me or my animals. However, if overwhelming toxic fumes can't reasonably be avoided without significantly compromising the strength of the epoxy that can be used I am prepared to let the epoxy cure on my screened-in back porch and just not go out there for however long it takes for the fumes to dissipate.

I'm open to suggestions that don't involve solid epoxy, I'm been going with this as I haven't been able to come up with anything else. My only constraints are that it can't involve welding nor substitution of the bracket or the attachment plate.

Any useful insight is greatly appreciated.

 
well ... and just off the cuff, and I have no Idea of material left, or beginning with, or damage done, and the fact that screws were tried, use machine screws and aggressive lock washers and thread locker under heavy torque for the material

though I barley make the connection to flood patching a hinge on a macbook

 
Back
Top