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Cleaning The External Case of a Compact Mac

Paralel

68020
I'd like to clean the case on my classic II, what is the recommended procedure for doing so?

It's mostly just grimy, but it does have 4 distinct areas where apparently old Apple stickers were stuck which left behind some kind of transparent adhesive residue.

I'd like to clean it up, and remove the old sticker residue, without damaging the case or accelerating its yellowing. I don't intend to try and reverse the yellowing that is currently present since it is minor and isn't an issue at this point, but I don't want to make it worse either.

Any insight is appreciated.

 
Dude, I would highly recommend the Retr0brite. Its awesome!! All my Classic Macs are white now! Get Clairol Pro 40 cream developer and a brush. Clean the case well with Simple Green and brush the developer on the case and leave it in the sun. Every 30 min or so reapply the creme with the brush. in about 4-6 hours your Mac will look brand new.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

 
GOO GONE, its a citrus type of adhesive remover quite safe for plastics, however there is a product by a similar name called goop off, and that stuff will eat plastic like mad, so pay attention

 
Gotta be careful with the magic erasers as they will abrade the plastic and smooth it if it has a textured surface. Magic Erasers will also remove the printed name from the case if you're not case (I faded mine accidentally trying to clean it).

Tempest

 
Yup, the extruded melamine acts as a mild abrasive. It will clean hard to clean spots, but you do need to use care.

 
I've used the following:

RECOMMENDED:

Endust for Electronics: Good at removing both dust and sticker gunk, also surprisingly good on sharpie marks (won't remove them entirely, but makes an impact). Make sure you have a well-ventilated room to use this one. I usually used this one with an old hand towel. It also works well on dusty CRT televisions (which is what I originally purchased it for).

Techspray Keyboard Cleaner: Probably my favorite from a bottle. Does the same thing Endust does but doesn't need as much ventilation (you'll want some, though). I have usually use Techspray with actual keyboard cleaning wipes. While I liked Endust, I have used this one for the past six years for most computer cleanings because it's easier to use in rooms/climates where window ventilation isn't always possible.

iKlear Apple Polish: I use this for displays, mostly. In particular, I've used it on LCDs, but if you use the wet one on a CRT it will do some good. This stuff is expensive but works very well. It comes in the form of towelettes (similar to the moist towelettes you get at restaurants or the alcohol pads used in medicine).

Read-Right Wipes: Again, a moist towelette, and one that is well-suited for cleaning heavily-soiled areas. I'm not sure if they still sell these, but they do work well.

NOT RECOMMENDED

Mr. Clean Magic Erasers: Don't get me wrong, they have some good purposes. However, cleaning Mac cases are not one of them, as they remove the top layer of plastic when used. They may make the computer nice and shiny and could lighten it up a bit, but you'll be dealing with uneven texture and an odd shine.

 
I've used the following:
RECOMMENDED:

Endust for Electronics: Good at removing both dust and sticker gunk, also surprisingly good on sharpie marks (won't remove them entirely, but makes an impact). Make sure you have a well-ventilated room to use this one. I usually used this one with an old hand towel. It also works well on dusty CRT televisions (which is what I originally purchased it for).

Techspray Keyboard Cleaner: Probably my favorite from a bottle. Does the same thing Endust does but doesn't need as much ventilation (you'll want some, though). I have usually use Techspray with actual keyboard cleaning wipes. While I liked Endust, I have used this one for the past six years for most computer cleanings because it's easier to use in rooms/climates where window ventilation isn't always possible.

iKlear Apple Polish: I use this for displays, mostly. In particular, I've used it on LCDs, but if you use the wet one on a CRT it will do some good. This stuff is expensive but works very well. It comes in the form of towelettes (similar to the moist towelettes you get at restaurants or the alcohol pads used in medicine).

Read-Right Wipes: Again, a moist towelette, and one that is well-suited for cleaning heavily-soiled areas. I'm not sure if they still sell these, but they do work well.
Those are fine and dandy if your computer is a little dusty.

 
outside the scope of this topic, but rubbing alcohol and a little elbow grease will get rid of sharpie pretty quick

dont use magic eraser, I erased some wallpaper with it

 
I'm quite glad I listened to my inner voice that said not to use the magic eraser on the Mac. I never realized they were such a powerful tool. The spongelike appearance is deceptive.

 
I will give you my advise from my experience.

My first Mac was a 128k purchased in January 1984. I upgraded and continued using that box until I purchased a Mac IIvx in 1993. I started buying compacts again several years ago. I frequently had need to clean the housing. What I found most effective, event to this day, is 409. Spray a lot of it on one side and leave it there for 15 minutes. Obviously, doing this in the evening or otherwise out of direct sunlight is best. Leaving it to just sit on the plastics let's it really pull out dirt, grime, pen marks -- you name it! Then wipe it with a rag. Sometimes you may need to do this twice. I've had very nice results, even on cases where stickers had been applied.

The next step up from 409 is LumpyBright -- my name for our very own LumpDog's low-H202 version of RetroBright. You can read about my experience, which was based on Lumpy's earlier work, in this deyellowing thread.

So give 409 a chance and if you want more, go with RetroBright.

 
I''ve found 409 to work on any plastic surface. The dirtier it is, the longer you simply need to leave the 409 on it. I've even used 409 on wooden tables that have pen marks (ball point, felt tip, etc) and it pulls up the ink in no time. And although it won't fully deyellow old Mac plastics like Retrobright, it will very so slightly lighten the color (back to the original color) if you leave it on long enough. Again, use it in a dimly lit cool place for best results, then wipe it off (I use old rags -- relatively clean ones, of course).

 
It doesn't damage the plastic in any way?
If you knew me better, while reflecting on my previous comment about having used 409 to clean Mac plastics since 1984, you would know that "it does NOT damage plastics." :b&w:

I treat my Macs like they are a part of my own body almost. So no, if I detected even the slightest discoloration, cracking or other "damage" I would have ceased use of 409 and never recommended it here. But the simple fact is, it has worked for me for years, and yes, that includes repeated uses on the same plastics over and over during a span of many years.

If anything is going to damage your plastics (i.e., "blooming") it is the use of H202 in very high concentrations, which is why my approach to RetroBright followed LumpyDog's work, using low strength 3% drug store H202. So use the 409 a few times first. And if you want even better results (i.e., deyellowing), go with LumpyBright.

 
we used to take 409 and pour it in a new spray bottle with about 25% rubbing alcohol in it back when I worked at a compaq refurb house ... anyway kills the foaming action that happens with 409 and textured plastic, + cuts the residue from 409 + removes ink

good stuff

 
aftermac,

Magic erasers are highly caustic, that's why they clean as well as they do. I don't think it's such a good idea using one on a Mac case. It's a good idea to check the label of anything you might be thinking of trying to make sure it's non-reactive with plastic and if in doubt, contact the manufacturer. They will usually share such information and if they won't, I wouldn't buy anything from them anymore.

 
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