$30 LCII from eBay

[LaPorta]

Just picked up a little project after recapping my Mac Plus. $30 on eBay. Stated working on the listing, but with the cap leakage, I didn’t want to press my luck until it was cleaned up. Once I have it up and running, I’ll need one of those monitors that goes so nicely with it.

 

[AwkwardPotato]

The leakage on your board surprisingly doesn't look too bad  . I used to have both an LC and an LC II and the audio regions of both boards were pretty much destroyed.

 

[Zippy Zapp]

Yeah, Not too bad.  Nothing a little IPA can't fix.  The last Mac I recapped was a Classic II and it had gook all over the board.  

 

[LaPorta]

In the process of re-capping...of course ripped up a trace (argh) because I didn't realize I had the wrong iron tip installed.

By the way, the rear case screw is missing: anyone able to give me the specs on it so I can get a replacement?

 

[bibilit]

By the way, the rear case screw is missing: anyone able to give me the specs on it so I can get a replacement?

 

Missing most of the time, don't see the point looking for one, cover will clip and stay closed without any.
 

 

[LaPorta]

Just for completeness sake, that's all.

 

[PB145B]

I have never seen one with that in-place. I think that was an optional thing for schools in order to keep kids from being able to remove the top. 

Just a guess; don’t know for sure.

 

[LaPorta]

I at least was able to salvage what was left of the traces. Only three came up to any degree. The reason it is so hard is all the cap crap caked on the solder is a big time insulator and sometimes it is hard to get the solder hot enough for a clean removal.

However, the re-cap worked: she is up and running. The SuperDrive needs to be cleaned, it can barely move. The HD is in good repair, and it started into System 7.1. 10 MB of RAM is installed. The HD is very sterile; not much is on there. The inside is almost dustless; either someone made a great effort to use this in a dustless environment, or it wasn’t used much.

Below are the photos of the re-cap. I always wish it went better every time I do it, but I think it came out pretty well.

 

[superjer2000]

I know everybody has their own style but for a board with corroded leaky caps I have had way more luck with gently pushing down on the old caps and using a screwdriver to  twist a little bit left then right and back and forth probably 50 times and then the cap comes off at the legs. 

I tried two soldering irons, soldering tweezers, even ChipQuik but like you said the cap goo makes it very difficult to heat up the old solder. At the same time, the cap goo makes the capacitor legs very brittle and prone to breaking off. Since I started doing this I haven't lifted a single pad (prob 15+ machines) and it takes about 1/20 of the time. 

 

[LaPorta]

Thanks for the tip. I think I will give that a go. I also got a tip from a guy I know who said to try and use hot air. I know those things are used for surface mount soldering in general...he suggested it could help with this as well.

 

[superjer2000]

Sorry. I just reread what I wrote. I meant pliers. Not a screwdriver, definitely not a screw driver.  I twist it clockwise then counterclockwise (ie rotating) but just literally by fractions of a hair at first and then progrsssively more. I think the pads are strongest laterally and that's the direction force is applied by doing it this way. 

Ive read with hot air there is a risk the cap could blow and you run the risk of making other nearby components too hot. 

 

[LaPorta]

Well, I had a chance to use your technique last night.

after cleaning/lubricating the SuperDrive, I thought I’d take my IIe Card out and give it a go. Of course, I saw that thing also has two capacitors and they had leaked! Figures.

so, I got to try it out.

They twisted off crazy easily. You can see the crud that I managed to get off and resolder a few 22mfd caps I had around. It works great!