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Yellow Be gone!
- Thread starter uniserver
- Start date
CC_333
Well-known member
I have a soft spot for PentiumD's (used an off the shelf eMachines tower powered by one as my main computer for awhile before I got the Mac Pro, and it worked decently, and was relatively fast under XP and even Mac OS X Tiger (it was my first Hackintosh experience, and the chipset happened to be almost identical to the MacBooks and MacMinis of the time, which made it super easy)), so if you find you don't need/want that particular CPU, I'd take it (and its heatsink) from you.
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
Anyway, your work with retrobright (aka Yellow Be Gone!) is impressive!
c
aplmak
Well-known member
I have a bunch of the Dell 520's or 620's.. something like that model number at my work... Had to recap almost all of them.. They were during the time of the bad cap run!!!! They looked like volcano's too.. I have always noticed even in the iMac all in ones it's the Rubycon caps that burst...
Apache Thunder
Well-known member
I think I had some caps fail on my monitor a year back. It took 6+ months before I managed to set aside money to buy a replacement power board that had the capacitors fail. (the power board was only like $15 or so, but I had other priorities at the time.)
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself.
Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)
It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
I noticed two caps were bulging on top so it's obvious they must have been the cause of the problem. This caused the monitor to not power on with the power LED flashing. At first the monitor would not turn on for about 20 minutes after being off for awhile. (during that time the screen backlight would flash on for a bit then go off. Sometimes it would flash on just long enough for the OSD status menu to show up. So I figured it wasn't an issue with the logic board/LCD panel. It would do this for about 10+ minutes before it "warmed up" and finally stayed on)
At one point I got tired waiting for the thing to warm up in the mornings and left it on for a week straight and wouldn't even allow it to go into sleep mode. Needless to say the day I finally turned it off again...it never turned on again after that.
I didn't notice the capacitors until after I had replaced the power board. Even then I would have just replaced the board anyway as I don't have the soldering equipment to do it myself. It would have cost the same or more to get the capacitors and soldering iron to do it myself.
Maybe if the board coast north of $60 I would consider it. But last I checked they are still pretty cheap on ebay for the few listings that there are for them. (just checked the one in my watchlist is still going for $15.88)It was an LG LGE 206W. (I'm not sure when it came out originally. It's been discontinued for awhile now)
I wonder if it was made back during that time of the bad caps. It seems to be a common problem with the particular power board this monitor uses because there's some ebay listings and one on Amazon that sells the capacitors specific to this monitor. A few other models must have used that power board.
I'd replace the monitor, but I certainly can't afford to do that. Good thing I am good at taking things apart. Otherwise I would have considered the monitor a complete loss.
I had the monitor less then a year before it developed bad capacitors. I bought it used though, so not sure how much use it saw. It's been almost as long since I replaced the power board. I wonder how long I have before it becomes an issue again. Last I recall, the replacement board I got used original components so if it's a common problem with this board, I'll probably encounter this issue again later down the road.
I still have the board with the bad capacitors. I might get around to having someone replace the caps on it when I get the money and time to do it. I probably wouldn't install it until after I encounter the issue again with the board already installed.
Last edited by a moderator:
Paralel
Well-known member
Well the caps weren't "bad" in the traditional sense as in a manufacturing/physical defect. They were actually based on a stolen and incomplete electrolyte formula that was obtained via industrial espionage, which backfired since it was flawed. The companies that used the stolen formula knowingly, or unknowingly in a few cases, made caps that would blow after a short time.
techknight
Well-known member
and still are blowing today.
techknight
Well-known member
UV eeprom eraser light is just UV-C, or better known as germicidal lamps.
On ebay they sell the regular compact fluorescent style germicidal lamps.
On ebay they sell the regular compact fluorescent style germicidal lamps.
2dfx
Member
This is with the 40V or your "secret sauce"?
