Yellow Be gone!

[Paralel]

I've treated several buckets, and I haven't had any problems with the RF coating coming off.  I've treated both the thinner, shiner anti-RF, and the older, thicker dark gray stuff.  Neither came off.

Huh, good to know. I might do this afterall then.

 

[pixelwrangler.design]

Well, I had to give this a try! My first attempt:

I looked up the MSDS sheet for the compound in uniservers' OP, the active thing in it was hydrogen peroxide, at 12.5%. There turn out to be several brands of 40V or 40 Volume Developer, the kind I got at Sally Beauty Supply was rated at 10-15%

I left a coat on for about 13 hours, but this was overnight and in a garage, so no sunlight. Will see what the results are.

 

[uniserver]

i think you need UV light + the Developer, that is why they say sun, i suppose you could use black lights as some have done in some youtube channels but i think they all agree that the sunlight is the best.   anyways, great post your results.. i still havent had to the time yet to do this process yet.

 

[Apache Thunder]

I've read somewhere that it's easier to maintain the creme method if you cover the covered areas with plastic wrap which keeps it from drying out. I personally will prefer the submerge in liquid method. It will likely coast a bit more in material (like finding and buying a clear plastic tub large enough for my Macintosh SE or SE/30 when I have one). So I've decided the submerge in liquid method to be the safest route for me.

 

[techknight]

I bet thats the only reason people chose to go with the creme method is because of the huge parts like that. Small stuff like mice, monitor front bezels, etc. are ok. But large cases is why the creme I bet. 

 

[Danamania]

40vol stuff is awesome. I've tested a couple of kinds out in the sun vs indoors - it does nothing indoors, but does too-fast work outside in sun UV. I'll add the same disclaimer for any drive-by readers that I make about Australian sun and retrobrite here too - 40vol, here, in country australian sun, will nuke a mac's case to white blooming in minutes. It needs to be REALLY diluted to give a good result, so here the submerge method is the only useful one. Test first!

I find yellowing can come back subtly over many years, but only in the same places it was originally yellowed; My guess is it's the leeching of bromine from only the parts of the plastic originally damaged in the past. My IIci/IIcx case top is my benchmark there. Kept in the sun originally, it was heavily yellowed on one side with a far less-yellowed shadow of the monitor on top. It keeps re-yellowing slightly in the same pattern.

 

[uniserver]

i didn't put gloves on and the tips of my fingers are kinda of numb and bright white.  -- not good...

 

[rsolberg]

If you rinsed your hands well after exposure, the whitening and numbness should pass after a couple hours.

Source:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf&ved=0CBoQFjAAahUKEwiIuPCO4qfIAhUBKogKHRNKDcQ&usg=AFQjCNECTLNzu2_EfSZmjBFHlvLv4RRujQ&sig2=N-G-8xrEi6CCMGuyOJCzmg

 

[uniserver]

yes its fine now, was kinda weird! 

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0335.pdf

haha,  yep that is what happened

darn-it...   must be careful!!!!!

 

[uniserver]

i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.

i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.

i bought all the BL stuff that had,

it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours

i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.

and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.

 

[LazarusNine]

I'm running the 40vol test at the moment with very satisfactory results in my opinion. I've done a mouse and the back of a CC and it works well. Unfortunately, I'm in Britain and it's passed the point of no return weather-wise (01 October). With brief flashes of sun and even a cloudy day, this method DOES work. It's probably just worth leaving it out for two days instead of one.

P.S. I like your BL setup, uni!

 

[joethezombie]

P.S. I like your BL setup, uni!

Yes, the "pedestal" holding the case off the ground is most impressive.

 

[techknight]

i have 3 - 14 watt spagetti BL bulbs in reflectors.

i have 4 - 17 watt 24in single tube fixtures taped together.

i bought all the BL stuff that had,

it seems like the gel has dried up in the past few hours

i need like a dish and a BBQ brush to slather this crap on.

and i forgot to buy gloves at walmart when i was there.

Screen Shot 2015-10-04 at 2.32.31 AM.png

Screen Shot 2015-10-04 at 2.32.49 AM.png

How did that work out? I didnt think the blacklight had the correct wavelength. I always thought you needed narrowband UV-B like in tanning beds, etc. 

 

[uniserver]

 honestly... i am thinking you can use use heat...   From what i understand the peroxide needs to be activated... that is why

it does nothing when you just smear it on.     and Heat and UV light both activate peroxide...  what has to happen is the peroxide has to bind to the

bromide, and when that happens the yellow is be gone.

Once you get the yellow be gone,  you can protect your plastic with silicone oil.  if you coat your de-yellowed plastic with Armorall or Pledge.

it will be protected,  the reason the yellow stains on the plastic is because the bromide reacts with the oxygen in the air.  and those products will keep that from happening... so if you have a mac that is not yellow, Protect it with a silicone oil product.

this is really not my thing, just so you guys know.  i am only doing this because one of my customers offered me a Turbo 040 @40mhz for my Iici if i De-Yellow his SE/30.

so i figured if i am going through all the trouble i will do it right...  I am a turbo kind of guy and i want to accerlaterate this process as fast as possible

i am thinking i am going to use heat and BL, next.

i ran out of time...  I need to pick up some saran wrap,  some rubber gloves and 2 extra wide tubs, because at the office there is just a bathroom sink and nothing else for me to wash bigger things like these plastics

by the time i got all the BL set up, i had already applied the 40 developer,   and it had started to dry.

but i could tell just front he UV from the normal lights in my office after 3 hours it was removing all the yellow from one side of the thing.

so i ran out of time last night,   i will have to restart the process tonight hopefully if i get time,

so far the LC-III is pretty screwed up looking as its streaked all to hell.

the product had already partially dried up, after i put it under the BL.

this guys uses BL, seemed like he had great results with this apple iie.

 

[uniserver]

the pedestal is a mini dell, i got a whole stack of them for free... they all need caps

 

[uniserver]

bought some more stuff,   the BBQ brush gets it on nice.

used gloves this time… and bought some plastic wrap.

i guess ill check tomorrow and see what she does...

-- btw using the bbq brush and a dish is a much better way to apply this slop.

 

[uniserver]

ok so took these at 3:00am  about 4 hours later, and  i tell you what.. 

it looks completely de-yellowed to me.

the sides are still a slight but of yellow so i will reposition the the other lights

but looks like the saran wrap was the ticket!

 

[techknight]

Whats funny, is the blacklight really brings out where the monitor used to sit. Almost as if the plastic got embedded with something else as well... 

 

[uniserver]

and bam… Yellow BE Gone!




i just might have accidentally found a chemical solution that removes yellow instantlly but I don't want to say too much about it before we do some more testing…  but its slightly exciting.

MJ, hey… do you have a mac that you don't care about that is yellow

can you mix 50/50    91%IPA / acetone ,  then spray, then kind of Buff wipe off with a cotton terry cloth and tell me if it works… if it doesn't , try 40% IPA and 60% acetone. just for shits and giggles.

what ever you do, do not use more then 60% acetone,  i'm just sayin  

 

[uniserver]

there is a point of diminishing returns, and that point is anywhere between 4 hours and 6 hours, as i think the the solution wears out.  and you defintally want to be very generous with the jelly substance. slather on liberal ammounts. maybe even up to 2-3 MM thick or around 1/8th of an inch, or at atleast more more then 1/16th.