SE with Parkinson's...

[Schmoburger]

Well, as of late I have noticed my SE Superdrive has developed a bit of a jittery display most noticable when it first powers on, and some ever so slight dimensional changes with changes to or from largeish areas of white. As the machine warms up the jitters diminish... and a tap or so on the side seems to affect it somehow.

I am tempted to think the jittery screen (which seems like electrical interference) may be the filter capacitors on the PSU on their last legs... is this a fair appraisal? Aside from the jittery behaviour at startup the machine otherwise functions perfectly, and has been very well treated and cared for for the 12 years or so I have owned it and to my knowledge prior to that it didnt have a hard life either.

 

[360alaska]

If tapping helps/hurts, it's a sure sign that some solder needs to be re-flowed... Here's something I've been working on:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_Xp3uN-BcxsRThRU1NOQ1RXR1k/view?usp=sharing

Look at L2, L3, C15 and P1

Also: look into replacing C15 if it's original

 

[Schmoburger]

CHeers mate that looks to be worth it's weight in gold. I might look at pulling the A-board out when I have time and give it some hot air to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Elfen]

The area to look at like 360Alaska stated is those parts. But also there are 2 cable jacks to look at, most importantly the one that connects to the CRT Yoke. It should be 6 to 8 pins and the solder on a couple of those pins crack over time. You need to desolder, clean up the area and resolder with fresh solder. This will give a strong repair that will last a few years. Reflowing the solder will temporarily fix it for a couple of week to a month - depending on how often and how long you have Mac on.

While you are there, look at the top of the analog board where T1 is at and desolder, clean and resolder any suspect joints there too. These two areas are connected and affect each other. If you have cracked solder joints at one place, you will have solder joints going bad at the other.

You do not need a hot air station for this, just a simple iron, solder wick, flux, and a roll of solder. It should only take an hour at most to do. 1/2 hour if you're with an iron.

 

[360alaska]

The area to look at like 360Alaska stated is those parts. But also there are 2 cable jacks to look at, most importantly the one that connects to the CRT Yoke. It should be 6 to 8 pins and the solder on a couple of those pins crack over time. You need to desolder, clean up the area and resolder with fresh solder. This will give a strong repair that will last a few years. Reflowing the solder will temporarily fix it for a couple of week to a month - depending on how often and how long you have Mac on.

While you are there, look at the top of the analog board where T1 is at and desolder, clean and resolder any suspect joints there too. These two areas are connected and affect each other. If you have cracked solder joints at one place, you will have solder joints going bad at the other.

You do not need a hot air station for this, just a simple iron, solder wick, flux, and a roll of solder. It should only take an hour at most to do. 1/2 hour if you're with an iron.

The yoke connector is P1 and it is 4 pins... I generally don't use my hot air tool for through hole components...

 

[Elfen]

Good to hear, 360Alaska.

Incidentally, that last sentence is supposed to be "1/2 hour if you're good with an iron."

 

[360alaska]

Good to hear, 360Alaska.

Incidentally, that last sentence is supposed to be "1/2 hour if you're good with an iron."

Happens to me more than I'd like to admit

 

[Schmoburger]

Ah excellent information gentlemen! I will take it apart sometime soon when I have some spare time on my hands and have a look what I'm dealing with.