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SE/30 Restore ..I think I'm done?
- Thread starter smrieck511
- Start date
Nixontheknight
Well-known member
This is entirely optional, but you could get the micron xceed clone bolle is making to get 256 grays on the SE/30's internal display
s_pupp
Well-known member
You’ve done a great job. If you want to go further, here are some suggestions:
1. Have you made the component substitutions on the analog board as recommended by Larry Pena in his books? For longevity, it’s worthwhile to do so.
2. Is the case yellowed? If so, careful use of Retr0brite can help.
3. Do you need to calibrate the screen position and geometry (careful - doing so improperly can kill you)?
4. Do you have the metal lock tab inserted into the slot at the back of the SE/30? (optional)
5. Are the SE/30’s rubber feet in good condition, or do they need replacing? If you want as original an appearance as you can get, try making a silicone mold of a foot that is in good condition, then make a polyurethane rubber cast (after mixing in black and white pigment to recreate the original color. It will take some experimentation.). You might consider using a non-silicone mold, then casting the feet out of silicone. Polyurethane rubber casts at that size do not seem to cure very well, and are a bit oily.
6. If you can find a NOS flyback, consider replacing the stock one with it. While you are at it, replace the analog board resistors with low-drifting metal film resistors. Replace all silicon components as well, for maximum life of the board. Don’t replace the choke coils, ceramic caps, or metal shield around the flyback, though - that would be silly.
7. If you find yourself at #5 or higher, you have joined me here, which is so far down the rabbit hole that you have reached Wonderland and have taken the form of the Mad Hatter.
1. Have you made the component substitutions on the analog board as recommended by Larry Pena in his books? For longevity, it’s worthwhile to do so.
2. Is the case yellowed? If so, careful use of Retr0brite can help.
3. Do you need to calibrate the screen position and geometry (careful - doing so improperly can kill you)?
4. Do you have the metal lock tab inserted into the slot at the back of the SE/30? (optional)
5. Are the SE/30’s rubber feet in good condition, or do they need replacing? If you want as original an appearance as you can get, try making a silicone mold of a foot that is in good condition, then make a polyurethane rubber cast (after mixing in black and white pigment to recreate the original color. It will take some experimentation.). You might consider using a non-silicone mold, then casting the feet out of silicone. Polyurethane rubber casts at that size do not seem to cure very well, and are a bit oily.
6. If you can find a NOS flyback, consider replacing the stock one with it. While you are at it, replace the analog board resistors with low-drifting metal film resistors. Replace all silicon components as well, for maximum life of the board. Don’t replace the choke coils, ceramic caps, or metal shield around the flyback, though - that would be silly.
7. If you find yourself at #5 or higher, you have joined me here, which is so far down the rabbit hole that you have reached Wonderland and have taken the form of the Mad Hatter.
MichaelLAX
Active member
More information please.
