Re-finish IO shield for SE/30 reloaded?

[JC8080]

I am getting close to wrapping up my SE/30 reloaded build and finally removed the IO shield from the old board. It has a fair amount of surface corrosion. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to refinish it and keep it from further corroding? I thought about cleaning it (wire brush or sand blaster) and painting with rust-killing primer and paint, though I think the heat of soldering it onto the new board would likely burn the paint.

 

[aeberbach]

Depending on where you live a nearby metal shop may be able to bead blast and then galvanize it for you?

 

[obsolete]

Evapo-Rust is magical for cleaning up stuff like that. Ideally you could get it re-galvanized, but I don't have any experience with getting that done; no plating shops nearby.

Maybe this would be a decent substitute? I've used it before but never tried to solder anything coated with it. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/cold-galvanizing-compound-spray

 

[finkmac]

Evapo-Rust is magical for cleaning up stuff like that.

+1 Evapo-Rust. that stuff is like magic. dunk it in for a few days, then steel wool and clearcoat it if need be.

 

[croissantking]

+1 Evapo-Rust. that stuff is like magic. dunk it in for a few days, then steel wool and clearcoat it if need be.

I sprayed one of mine as a test. It’s not a bad result, but not amazing either. I did mask off the solder points. I wish one could get these made up new though.

 

[JC8080]

Doing some googling it looks like Evapo-Rust sells a rust remover product to soak the metal in, as well as a spray-on rust inhibitor. @croissantking, did you use the spray, or did you spray it with something else? I agree a plating shop would be the best solution, I would expect it to be a bit pricey but I have not looked into it.

Do you think just connecting the shield to the LB with the two smaller corner pins would be sufficient for the chassis ground to work properly? I would ideally like to install the shield temporarily so I can put the board in the chassis until I figure out how to coat the shield properly. Those corner pins were easy to de-solder so it would not be much trouble to remove it later. I figured the multiple connection points between the shield and LB might be more for structural reasons, rather than needing all those connection points for a good ground.

 

[trag]

What metal is the SE/30 shield? IF it is iron based, then a wash of phosphoric acid is a good choice. I've bought this treatment under various covers over the years, but I think the most recent was a Rustoleum product. Regardless of who is packaging it, it is a thin, green colored liquid.

The phosphorous displaces the oxide on the iron and leaves a durable, flat black coating, which is also very paintable and prevents future rust. Great for auto body applications too.

I found and posted a place that will cut metal to spec in the group buy thread -- or maybe that was on that other forum. I haven't used their service though. One would need to make careful measurements of the dimensions of the shield.

 

[s_pupp]

For my floppy drive cage, I used EvapoRust (excellent stuff, and reusable) followed by cold galvanizing paint. I plan to put a coat of latex paint over it, as recommended on the cold galvanizing paint can.

 

[olePigeon]

You can get cheap home electroplating kits for $75 these days. Presumably you can use the same kit for electrolysis rust removal. I kinda like the idea of black zinc plating everything.

 

[obsolete]

I found and posted a place that will cut metal to spec in the group buy thread -- or maybe that was on that other forum. I haven't used their service though. One would need to make careful measurements of the dimensions of the shield.

Was it SendCutSend? I've used them for car projects in the past and have always been very pleased with the results. I have contemplated making reproductions of these plates for SEs & SE/30s but I haven't decided whether I'm willing to hammer one of mine flat to take the measurements yet...

 

[trag]

Was it SendCutSend? I've used them for car projects in the past and have always been very pleased with the results. I have contemplated making reproductions of these plates for SEs & SE/30s but I haven't decided whether I'm willing to hammer one of mine flat to take the measurements yet...

Yes. I had to find my old posting because I couldn't remember: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/se-30-reloaded-group-buy.2337/post-22017

They were suggested by someone in my rocketry club.

The phosphoric acid solution from Rustoleum is Rustoleum Rust Dissolver -- or that was the product name a few years ago, the last time I bought a bottle.