Macintosh SE/30 Vertical Lines w/o start up or chime

[VideoGamer24385]

Hello,

I have just received this macintosh SE/30 a few hours ago, and every time I try to turn it on, I get these vertical lines and the start up chime does not sound. Does anyone know about this? Also if I need that screwdriver it does not reach the screws where the handle is. What type of screw driver (size and type) do I need to reach way back there?

Thanks,

Matt

 

[aftermac]

http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#WavyDisplay

Looks like SimasiMac to me. Take apart info is in the link also.

 

[VideoGamer24385]

Ah thanks, do I need the discharger also?

 

[aftermac]

It's always safest to discharge the monitor before working on a compact Mac. Though you *should* be able to remove and work on the logic board without messing with the CRT. Do so at your own risk.

 

[VideoGamer24385]

Ok so I cleaned all the ram and I checked the capacitors and there is just glue. I found out that the clock battery is dead, could that cause it?

 

[Apostrophe]

Nah. I have a Macintosh Plus with a dead battery also, and the only noticeable effect is that the date/time reverts to something like 1/1/1904 at 12:00 am every time I turn it on.

Capacitors can be damaged even if it's not visible. A component blew on my Macintosh 512k's analog board (causing it to do nothing whatsoever when I try to turn it on), but despite my best efforts to find the component that popped, all capacitors, transistors, power supplies...everything looks absolutely pristine.

So appearances can be deceiving. As long as you're not afraid of lead exposure (which I am, unfortunately), it would be wise to replace all of your capacitors. I hear that soldering isn't all that hard once you get the hang of it.

Hope I helped,

-Apostrophe

 

[trag]

It's always safest to discharge the monitor before working on a compact Mac. Though you *should* be able to remove and work on the logic board without messing with the CRT. Do so at your own risk.

I feel the other way. In my experience, the only time I was ever shocked by a CRT discharge was while I was intentionally discharging the CRT. In other words, just stay away from that connection and don't try to discharge it. You'll be fine. Also, if you don't discharge it properly (through large resistor) you can damage board components.

 

[Scott Baret]

You can avoid the CRT altogether if you're just working on the logic board. You won't need to remove the CRT or the analog board to access it.

I don't normally discharge my CRTs. SEs made in 1988 or later and all subsequent compact models (SE/30, Classic, Classic II) have self-discharging CRTs. I use an insulated pair of pliers to carefully remove the anode cap from the CRT. I've never been shocked using this method and have worked on dozens of compacts.

On earlier Macs, I usually just wait about 2-3 weeks after the machine has last been plugged in to work on it. Keep in mind that to start the discharge process (on either a self-discharger or an earlier model), you actually have to unplug the Mac from the outlet--simply shutting off the switch won't do it.

Personally, I feel the discharge process (with tools or modified screwdrivers) is more trouble than it's worth. As Trag pointed out, it's often riskier than trusting the self discharge or waiting for the Mac to discharge itself!

The riskiest maneuver on a compact is adjusting a CRT yoke, since you'll need to have the Mac on to do it properly and will be touching part of the CRT near the anode cap to adjust it. (This goes for the centering rings on these CRTs too, although there are controls on Classics that largely eliminate the use of these). Even if you avoid the anode cap, you'll still have charged capacitors to deal with on the analog board. (I got zapped by one in a Classic II many years ago).

 

[phreakout]

VideoGamer24385,

When you say, 'there is just glue', what exactly do you mean? Also, do any of the caps appear bulged out or leaking? If so, then I would advise replacing all the caps (C1 through C13). Judging by the photos, you definitely have the symptoms of Simasimac and replacing the caps is one highly suggested solution to this problem.

Don't worry too much about getting shocked by the CRT. The only place you'll have to come in close contact with on that is the raster board attached to the CRT's neck; that's the small circuit board plugged in on the narrow back of the picture tube. Sometimes you might need to remove it in order for your hands to reach down to the cables holding the logic board in.

If replacing caps doesn't sound like your cup of tea, send me a private message and we can discuss arrangements for you to have me do the repair. (See the discussion I posted "Offering of my services to the 68kmla community".)

73s de Phreakout.

 

[VideoGamer24385]

What does that screen mean? I have such bad luck. :'(

 

[aftermac]

What does that screen mean? I have such bad luck. :'(

Looks like it could be a power supply issue. The lines are probably the brightness turned up too high.

Also, for SimasiMac you are looking for the caps on the motherboard. The ones in your pics are of the power supply.

This link shows you exactly what to look for: http://www.teamteabag.com/2008/04/21/retro-computing-corner-simasimac-fix/

 

[VideoGamer24385]

Ok I checked the switch and no dice, it still is the same.... Here are the pictures you asked for......

 

[aftermac]

On this page: http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#WavyDisplay

Check out the sections on "12. Too Bright Monitor with Horizontal Sweep Lines" and "14. Wavy Display, Swaying Back and Forth of the Image"

The display doesn't look wavy, but the "Welcome to Macintosh" dialog box looks pretty distorted...