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Macintosh Color Classic repair adventure

agent_js03

Well-known member
So about two weeks ago (or so) I bought a Macintosh Color Classic from a lady on Craigslist. She told me that it worked, and poor, gullible me believed her. She met me outside to make the deal and it looked like a shady part of town so I was reluctant to ask her to test it. I guess I should have figured from how eager she was to sell it for a price way lower than she asked for it. Oh well... to make a long story short, I brought it home, plugged it in, plugged the keyboard and pressed the power button. Nothing. I ran through the usual list of things you are supposed to do: cleaned the contacts on the front of the board, cleaned the board itself (I used a compressed air can and some cotton swab tips with 90 percent rubbing alcohol). I looked online and found out that the number one reason these things fail is bad capacitors. I looked at the caps on the logic board and sure enough, there was leakage galore. That must be it. So I ordered tantalum capacitors from mouser electronics to replace them.

I want to mention that in the meantime I was able to turn the computer on without the logic board in; the fan turned on, the hard drive spun up, and the power light came on, but nothing more. I also tried plugging in the board while the machine was in this state. Nothing happened except a faint high pitch noise.

Two weeks later (today) my capacitors finally arrive in the mail. Man those things are tiny! I solder them in place where the old capacitors used to be. Did one last dust blast from the air can, plugged in the board, plugged in the keyboard, pressed the power button. Nothing. I took out the motherboard again, powered on the machine, then plugged the board in. This time, I heard a sort of coughing sound from the speakers, and I could hear the floppy drive whirring up and down repetitively. Something is different obviously...

I will be hopefully posting pictures later. I am wanting to know if there is anything else that I might be missing. On capacitor C3, I noticed some darkness in the copper underneath the green silicon layer; these are the leads that you can see very clearly if you look at a picture of a color classic board, one leading to the 103490 chip and one leading to the blue 101 thing below it. It is possible that the capacitor leakage had caused some corrosion and broken those leads, but I am unsure. Down by C9 some of the green film had chipped away; I glued down as much of it as I could find, but I don't think that it necessarily disturbed any of the underlying leads, just exposed them.

I am wondering if there is anything else I could be missing. Perhaps I have bad solder joints on some of the capacitors. Perhaps there is something I need to do with the PRAM battery. Perhaps there is something wrong on the analog board. I don't think any of the pads lifted when I was desoldering, at least not that I could tell. I cleaned that board as best I could too.

Any tips would be appreciated; I will do my best to provide photos of my work.

 

Juror22

Well-known member
Waiting to look at the pics.

Did you wash the board either before or after recapping? (see references to this activity in other posts)

So to be clear, you powered on the mac (with no motherboard installed) and then inserted it while the mac was running?  I can't believe that would work and not blow out something.  Correct me if this is possible, but I would not try this with a hard drive, let alone a motherboard.  Not trying to nitpick - I would honestly like to know if this is something that would work, or not.

 

LazarusNine

Well-known member
Well, the Colour Classic motherboard is quite a finicky piece of kit, especially once the caps have gone. I had a very similar experience to you when I received a CC. Without the mobo, it booted. With, it wouldn't. I had recapped the mobo and same result.

The solution, in the end, was rather ridiculous. In a last ditch effort, I chucked the thing in the dishwasher and gave it a good shake and 24 hours in a bowl of rice. Plugged it back in, and the thing booted. Seems one commenter's point was correct - the cap goo had done its work. Hopefully it hasn't rotted any traces in your case.

I've linked to that thread below. Also, I share the previous commenter's concerns about plugging the mobo in while the computer is already running, but hey ho.

https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/26177-colour-classic-not-booting-after-correct-sequence-recap/?fromsearch=1

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
I have pictures but am having a hard time figuring out how to put them on here. I feel a little silly. Can someone help me out here?

I think you guys have a point, the board is pretty dirty. I was reluctant to run it through the wash so I just rubbed it down with a cotton tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. If washing it is what it takes, I will do it.

To be honest the PRAM battery is probably also dead. I know that others have talked about this being the issue for their CC. Unfortunately I do not currently have access to a good pram battery.

I was looking to see if I could just replace the whole board, on eBay there are boards selling for between 130-200 dollars. That's ridiculous. I am unwilling to pay that kind of money on a 23 year old machine that maxes out at 10MB RAM. It's not worth it.

 

bibilit

Well-known member
Posting pictures is easy, on the bottom right you have got a "More Reply Options" in the Reply window.

You can then choose a picture and add it to the post.

Yes Pram battery can be a problem, but most of the Logic Boards can do it without.

Another trouble found in this forum, is a special area on the back of the logic board where a trace can be damaged (near R56 IIRC)

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
Thanks guys. I ran it through the dishwasher and now it is all shiny and clean. I will try it again next weekend (that should give it time to dry).

Here are the pictures (before the wash):

IMG_0312.JPG

Here is the area I was talking about around C9, where the green layer was chipping off of the copper circuit beneath:

IMG_0315.JPG

Here is another area of concern I talked about. There was a lot of leakage around C3. Notice the very dark colored leads coming from that cap. I am worried that there is corrosion beneath the green silicon coating.

IMG_0317.JPG

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
Here is another closeup, this one of C6.

IMG_0319.JPG

This is the last picture. Sorry, this one is very blurry. This is a closeup of the single 100uf 16v cap. This one was the tiniest capacitor. I had to solder it on its side because it was so tiny I couldn't hold it in place and solder it face down. It clung to the solder pads fine. I notice there is a lot of orange around the contacts... I think there was some corrosion there. As far as I could see, the pads were all intact. I used a solder sucker to remove the solder when I took off the old caps.

IMG_0320.JPG

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
Thanks for the reply, techknight. Were you referring to the area around C9 I was talking about? Or were there other places you saw in the photos that look like trace rot?

 

snuci

Well-known member
Let it dry thoroughly and try it before doing anything. There is capacitor goo all over the board in your "before" pictures.   

 

bibilit

Well-known member
This is a closeup of the single 100uf 16v cap.
Should be 10 uf isn't it ?

Did you clean the old solder before applying new one ?

I had to solder it on its side because it was so tiny I couldn't hold it in place and solder it face down
Holding capacitors with tweezers is the best solution i have found to keep them flat and lined up.

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
You're right bibilit, it is a 10uf not a 100uf.

For that one, I cleaned as much of the old solder as I could. There was some that was sticking there and wouldn't be removed.

 
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agent_js03

Well-known member
I tried again turning the machine on after the wash, no go. I have ordered the same model pram battery from amazon. When it gets in I will replace it and try again before I go connection chasing. I know y'all have said that the pram shouldn't make a difference, but I have heard too many stories online about people who replaced the pram batter and magically everything started working.

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
Hey bibilit,

that is interesting. I am wondering though, first of all, how does one determine that a via is bad, and second of all, once the determination is made, how does one know where the other end of the via is? The circuit has multiple layers. It seems like it would be impossible to find out. Does that trace just happen to be one that goes bad a lot of the time?

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
I borrowed a multimeter from my coworker yesterday. I turned the board over and touched those two contacts (C56 and the via by R36, as in the picture) and the multimeter beeped. I set the MM to measure resistance on the lowest setting, and touched these two again, and resistance was almost zero. This seems to indicate that the via must be good, or that there is a direct connection between these two points. Am I right, or missing something?

Also I tested the other two traces that I thought had been too corroded by the electrolytic fluid; apparently there is still a connection on them, they are not too far gone.

I don't know if there is any other trace rot, at least I don't know how to look for it. I may just have to wait for the pram battery to come in. If anyone else has recommendations, let me know.

 

agent_js03

Well-known member
Well the pram battery didn't solve it. I guess I can try removing the solder again and get rid of all the corroded stuff on the pads.

Anyone else have any ideas before I give up on this project?

 
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