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iMac G4 20” connector removal?

wottle

Well-known member
Trying to recap my iMac G4 20” and I’ve run across a connector I cannot seem to remove. On the 17” iMacs there is a similar connector with a plastic cap over it that seems to be intended to lock the connection in place. This one looks like it might be similar, but I’ve tried prying and sliding and wiggling and so far I cannot seem to get it to come off.

Any insight into how to remove this guy? IMG_2738.jpeg

Thanks. Unfortunately because the connector is different on the 20” than the other two sizes, the online disassembly guides and videos never show what to do with this one. Hopefully someone has done it before and we can document it here.
 

wottle

Well-known member
So, I couldn't figure out how to do it, so just went cave-man and replaced the capacitors with the thing hanging off the bottom of my iMac's base. Would still love to have an answer from someone who's removed it. It does appear to be the cable that runs to the display.

Also, thoughts on replacing the 150uF caps on the logic board? You can see one here and it looks identical to the OS-CON Polymer caps I bought to replace them with. My understanding is that these should never leak. I can always replace later if the machine has issues, but do the polymer caps have better longevity?
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
Polymer caps don't leak and last longer (the datasheets will often tell you so). Series SVP is indeed polymer, so you can leave that alone.

The display connector should've come out with a firm enough yoink, but eh, if you managed to work around it, no worries.
 

wottle

Well-known member
Polymer caps don't leak and last longer (the datasheets will often tell you so). Series SVP is indeed polymer, so you can leave that alone.

The display connector should've come out with a firm enough yoink, but eh, if you managed to work around it, no worries.
Thanks for the confirmation. Yeah, there was some less than ideal angles when trying to solder on the new SMD caps, but I managed.

I pulled pretty hard, and even tried some medium prying with a plastic spudger tool, nut didn't want to risk breaking anything, as 20" G4s are pretty hard to come by around here. If I ever have to take it apart again, maybe I'll work up the courage to pull a little harder. The 17" G4 connector, once the plastic cap is removed, pulled away very easily. The 20" connector felt like the plastic cap had been glued down.
 
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