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Dismantling a Mac SE/30 for retrobriting?

Johnnya101

Well-known member
My Mac SE/30 has a white spot on the top from something sitting on it. Its also a shade of yellow... along with the keyboard and mouse.

How do I go about retrobriting it? I know the actual product, I mean taking the thing apart!

The back case is easy enough to get off, just the four screws. However the front part... that looks tough. I was hoping to not discharge the crt, however it looks like I may have to..?

The keyboard just has the screws on front and back, and I think the keys pop off? Yes, I know, be careful of the space bar spring.

The mouse has a few screws, should be easy.

I am worried that the retrobriting will eat away at labels. Not the pop out pins (taking those out) but like the back SE/30 sticker and the front label that says Macintosh SE/30... will it harm anything? Or what about the grey paint inside the back of the case?

Would gel be better since the back of the case is so big???

Thanks for your help!!

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
It seems I need something like h202 or something that's 3%? Could someone link me to some that's the best for this?

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Also will the analog board have any remaining electricity stored in it? Is that something I should be really careful about?

 

Juror22

Well-known member
What I have always done is removed the power supply analog board and CRT all as one unit from the front of the case. That way, I don't have to disconnect the analog board from the CRT. Then removed the frame and finally the speaker and the little front apple emblem. If you use higher than 3%H2O2, you will run the risk of bleaching the SE30 printing on the front.

One additional note, don't experiment with retrobriting on your prize SE/30, start out on a crappy mouse with no cord or something and get down the process and time required, first.

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
I've got an IIGS mouse, a common one. I'll try that first.

Here's what I plan on using. The general stuff everyone talks about. I think I'll brush it on (very evenly and thick) with the cling wrap.

Are you sure I can just remove the entire thing without discharging? Of course I'd yank the plug on full first.

(Imgur gallery, product at the bottom)

https://m.imgur.com/a/lv5oM

EDIT

The stuff is on sale, gonna go ahead and buy it. Also I have to remove the analog board to get it recapped. And the psu.

 
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Juror22

Well-known member
Discharging needs to be done if you are disconnecting the CRT from the analog board, make sure that you follow a good procedure.

I have never been a fan of strong peroxide, be sure to dilute it down to 3%, because the one that you are getting is 12%.

This VOLUME...... contains this PERCENTAGE of hydrogen peroxide

10 volume or V10  = 3%
20 volume or V20  = 6%
30 volume or V30  = 9%
40 volume or V40  = 12%
 
Here is a link where I gave advice to another person that was starting out on Retrobrite.
https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/28134-1989-model-macintosh-se-crt-discharge-for-retrobrite/

 
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Scott Squires

Well-known member

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Juror Ill cancel my order and get the walmart stuff and some oxiclean then.

Thanks Anthon, that will help!

I knew that yanking it will remove SOME of the current, but I was like why would you ever just do that with no discharge?

 

 

unity

Well-known member
The SE/30 is self-discharging. But keep in mind, its the CRT that holds the charge. I just unplug the anode cap by pushing it to one side, tilting up, then push the other way. Comes right out, easy as can be. Then just be careful how you handle the CRT as usual. Its not rocket science and its not like the CRT will kill you - unless you have a pacemaker. The caps on the sweep board are pretty harmless if they have a charge. I've been working on compacts a very, very long time - and before I even knew enough that the CRT stored a zap - yet I have never been shocked.

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Unity, forgive me if this is a stupid question as I've never worked with crts before, that would mean once it's fully discharged using the screwdriver method, then the crt is fully safe to touch, correct? I'm assuming you mean don't throw around the crt once discharged, I'm very aware that the back tube is extremely fragile.

EDIT

Also, this is a discharging question. I can just clip one end of the discharging wire to the metal chassis and have the other end clipped to the screwdriver and discharge it? It doesn't even need to be grounded or anything? Again, never worked with stuff like this...

 
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unity

Well-known member
The idea is not to touch were the anode cap plugs in (red cap) weather charged or not. The back end, the cathode, I dont think you can be shocked by that (not sure!) but yes -very fragile on that end. But besides that, its pretty safe to handle when not plugged in. As for grounding, correct. You can have it plugged in if you want but of course that opens other dangers (mac is now somewhat HOT). What you are doing is balancing the charge out. Like touching a door knob.

Even if you get a shock, I've been told its just annoying. Its not going to throw you across the room, etc.

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
So even touching the frame afterwards will be fine with a minor shock at the most, along with crt, correct?

 

jsarchibald

Well-known member
I always just give the frame a tap, just to be sure.

I've taken out the CRT and analog board still connected together to transplant from one machine to the other a number of times, no issues here.

 
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