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Compact Mac Power Meter Tool. :-)

MJ313

Well-known member
lol, I just wanted to feel like I knew something that you all didn't, which never happens around here. lol

 

bigmessowires

Well-known member
Let me know if you get that converter board made. I just submitted some identically-sized boards to OSHPark: $6 shipped for three copies. Hard to beat that!

 

uniserver

Well-known member
ok maybe next weekend i will log into smart prototyping.com   might get like 50 made up.

it sure is a beauty :)

 

uniserver

Well-known member
id like to make an half size version of your floppy emu, for hd 20 only.

i am going to experiment with Mike Mcmasters SCSI2SD and mod it to run from termination power.  so it can be bus powered. pretty excited about that!!!!!!

 

techknight

Well-known member
Yup, and the PCB at least the versions I saw,  has a spot for the diode but its un-populated. Once you populate a diode in there, boom you have termination power. 

 

CC_333

Well-known member
I wonder why termination power on the Plus would be deigned in, but left unimplemented like that?

c

 

techknight

Well-known member
Good question... Its also a 1985 board, so it could be a later version but they didnt populate the diode. I dont know why. 

 

unity

Well-known member
Mine came in today from Uni - time to give it a test drive. I know I could have made one cheaper, but its just nice to not have to do all the work sometimes! :D  Thanks man!

 

uniserver

Well-known member
yeah now you gotta get over to bmow and buy a Plus128k 512k rom kit :)

 
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techknight

Well-known member
oooo Now we are talking!!

And actually, with a slight redesign on the floppy emulator, and using the internal ADC reference of the AVR and some resistor-dividers, technically the atmel can monitor voltage supply and report it to the LCD. 

 
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bigmessowires

Well-known member
I got back the boards for the two DB-19 substitutes, and put them together today. Both versions use pins sticking out of a PCB, and a couple of rectangular LEDs as mechanical guides. Then there's an IDC-20 connector on the other side of the PCB, where you can attach a cable.

Version A is based on a modification of Uniserver's idea, and uses 0.1" header split up into a few unevenly spaced sections. The DB-19 pin spacing is close to 0.1", but not exact, so the header pins end up getting kind of bent. That's not great, but this version is pretty cheap and easy to build.

Version B uses 19 individual D-SUB crimp pins. The spacing is perfect to match the DB-19 female port. But it's kind of a bitch to build this version, since you have to stuff 19 pins one at a time, and use a female port as a jig, and then cut off the crimp section of each pin when you're done. And the crimp pins are a lot more expensive than regular 0.1 inch male header.

Both versions seems to work just fine. I ran a Floppy Emu through some exercises on a couple of different Macs, with both versions of this board. There were no problems, and the connector stayed firmly in the socket. 

I think I'm going to make another revision, that's a tweak of the version A shown here. But instead of splitting up the 0.1 inch header as 5-5 and 5-4, I'll split it as 3-4-3 and 3-3-3. That will be slightly more work to assemble, but will result in less pin bending.

Photos below, version A on right, version B on left:

db19-alt-2.jpg

db19-alt-3.jpg

db19-alt-1.jpg

 

uniserver

Well-known member
so i just got my single row headers from china. what if you just cut a bunch of individual pins of header, and just had them all properly spaced by the pcb?  you need to make the LED's light. i'm sure it wouldn't be that hard.

 
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