Apple Monitor M2943 and lack of parts

[lowlytech]

I have an apple M2943 15" multisync monitor that needs a new flyback transformer, as it makes loud zaps and pops every 3-4 seconds in between showing a great looking image.  I am no stranger to power supply repair and such, but I have never swapped out a flyback before.  However I can't find one that has the same part numbers anywhere on ebay or google.  Was hoping someone here knew something about flybacks and if you can substitute as long as it fits physically and has the same amount of leads coming out or if there is some rating or something else that needs to be taken into account.    The flyback that is currently bad has these markings...

TLF 027-06A4-11, 582205MJ  (front printed in dot matrix style.  probably a lot or date code)

Tatung TFB-247T  (<----affixed white label, this is what I have been searching)

5062624760

I have been reluctant to swap out flybacks in the past cause everyone scares you to death, literally.  But I am prepared to try (after a confirmed discharge of course) cause I can't seem to get a working vintage CRT monitor for my Power Mac.  I have received 2 monitors on ebay, but UPS busts them up before they arrive (one shadow mask breakage, other tube issues).  Can't seem to find any old apple CRTs in my area (100 miles south of Tulsa), so if anyone had input on a substitute flyback or if you can even do that I would appreciate any and all input.

Thanks..

 

[Elfen]

Fly back transformers are dangerous when the capacitors  connected to them are charged up. This is true when the monitor is on and then turned off, the capacitors are still charged.

A discharge tool usually takes care of the problem.

As to where to get one, I do not know.

 

[techknight]

you make one using a flatblade screwdriver, an insulated handle, and a clip lead to ground. 

Some people put resistors inline to the ground, some people connect straight to ground. keep in mind when going straight to ground, it goes POP. then its discharged. 

But also bear in mind there is dielectric absorption, so it may appear to "charge back up" a slight bit after discharge. This is due to the inefficiencies and resistences in the dielectric allowing residual charge to spread back across the plates. (dag of crt). 

So ground it, pops, keep it grounded for a bit. Then youll be fine. 

This is assuming the flyback doesnt have its own bleedoff resistor. Most do. 

 

[Elfen]

X^D @ TechKnight. I meant where to get a replacement flyback transformer. Not a discharge tool.

 

[techknight]

Well, if you read what you write, you refer as to where to get a discharge tool.... Re-read that post of yours, and see if you dont come up with the same conclusion. lol. 

so instead of it saying this: "As to where to get one, I do not know."

It should say: "As to where to get a flyback, I do not know."

Because the sentence immediately above it, reads this: "A discharge tool usually takes care of the problem."

So, Unless you re-define the noun at play, it is assumed the following sentence "one" refers to the noun above it. 

 

[Elfen]

You are correct TechKnight. Excuse me for my bad English.

 

[CelGen]

Back in the old days if the flyback (or the deflection yoke) was arcing externally through a crack or something in the housing, one way to get a little bit more life out of it was to cover it in silicone.

 

[techknight]

90% of the time, the super high resistive material in the G2/Focus block breaks down, and it zaps the electrodes in the back of the CRT. 

The only fix is to change the flyback, OR.... find an external G2/Focus block that goes in-line the HV lead from an old TV set. I think some of the early 70s trinitrons used them, and they MAY still be available. 

In that case, patch that inline, and cut the wires off the flyback. Done.