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Macintosh SE/30 clock not working / time not advancing.

I've seen a few hits on google with different machines where the RTC doesnt work anymore, but nothing about the SE/30. My SE/30 boots up and runs, but the time will not advance on the clock. I've replaced the PRAM battery, what could it be? Thanks

 
I use the free software called "NetworkTime".  The clock I use is:

time.apple.com
Awesome! I was just wondering how to set the time via NTP and the software you mentioned in just in time. Thank you but more importantly, I hope this works for the original poster.

By the way, your link doesn't work but perhaps this will for the poster and myself, https://www.macintoshrepository.org/2248-network-time

 
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Yes I have reset the PRAM as well. The clock still does not tick forward. I'm guessing bad RTC chip? Network time is nice and all, but were talking about a standalone SE/30. No internet access. Thanks.

 
Recapped? If not, that's step 1.

Step 2 is to check around UK4 (the RTC chip) and Y1 (the 32kHz crystal that runs it), looking for bad traces. There are four signals from UK4 to UK12 (VIA1). Any of them goes bad from cap goo and the clock probably wouldn't run.

 
Recapped? If not, that's step 1.

Step 2 is to check around UK4 (the RTC chip) and Y1 (the 32kHz crystal that runs it), looking for bad traces. There are four signals from UK4 to UK12 (VIA1). Any of them goes bad from cap goo and the clock probably wouldn't run.
Didn't find any bad traces from UK4 or Y1. I need find a missing trace from C12 - side, but I don't know what it goes to.

 
C12 is a power supply bypass, according to the schematic. It's probably not directly the source of the problem. But indirectly, by leaking goo everywhere it may be your culprit! The recap has to be the first step, otherwise you'll be chasing after new and weirder problems as time goes on.

If you've got a multimeter (or a scope) you can probably check the 1Hz RTC output (UK4 pin 1) to see if there's any sign of life.

 
C12 is a power supply bypass, according to the schematic. It's probably not directly the source of the problem. But indirectly, by leaking goo everywhere it may be your culprit! The recap has to be the first step, otherwise you'll be chasing after new and weirder problems as time goes on.

If you've got a multimeter (or a scope) you can probably check the 1Hz RTC output (UK4 pin 1) to see if there's any sign of life.
The board was already re-capped due to not having sound(sound works now). Thanks for the tip on the pin for the RTC. I'll have to see about that.

 
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