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Quadra 605 build log

Transferring over the overclock control strip :) The build is not ready for it (I need faster ram, vram, and probably a cooler 040) but it will be fun to try :).
Ignore what people say about VRAM and RAM speed. The overclock controlstrip is timed for stock RAM/VRAM. Stick a heatsink on the CPU and you'll be fine to 40MHz, although you might want to move a the resistor described in the readme to run SCSI if you have crashes during large file copies.
 
It runs fine at "40" (actually 36 with just a heatsink) but a bit warm. With the fan pointed at it, it's ice cold. Definitely feels a lot faster!

BlueSCSI got here today and a Apple Twisted Pair PDS ethernet. The BlueSCSI has been great, having fun loading up old software. The real win though is that I realized how horrible and loud the IBM 320MB drive was. Previously the machine was audible in the next room with the fan off, now it's quiet even with the fan.

The ethernet also worked great, but the metal bracket at the back is 90% rust. It was cheap, but it clearly was in a weird environment. The PCB looks new, but the outside facing pieces look like they were recovered from the Titanic. I took the bracket off for now to soak over night in deoxit, but I may just 3d print a new one. I had to clean the pins on the 8p8c jack, but it worked right away when I plugged it in to a 1g/10g switch, surprisingly.

The most interesting discovery I've had so far is that Mac OS 7.6 is incompatible with jumbo frames (lol, at least I think this is the problem). Over PPP my personal hotline "server" worked fine, but over direct ethernet transfers never start. Seems like small packet stuff works, like logging in etc. It is probably time for wireshark. I may need to force it to talk to other equipment through a "router" to handle IP fragmentation/mtu if the problem is MTU larger than 1500. Going to try newer OpenTransport versions too.
 
I remember using jumbo frames in 7.6.1 with OT 1.1.2. I also remember that it was a real headache setting it up, and I may have had to use a third party tool (OTConfig or something?) to adjust window and frame management to get it to work.

OT is awesome in that it has APIs for everything for custom tweaking -- but like many Apple products, suffered from Apple not providing default tools to leverage those APIs to the best effect.

NetDoubler is also a potential option to automate some of this for you.
 
@adespoton I ended up just throwing OpenWRT on an old switch and setting it up as a dumb-old-internet router, which works well enough, I can reach both local services with jumbo frames (since it does the ICMP bits for the mac) and the internet. I was trying to find IPNetTuner for a while, I'll have to check those other options out. I'm not sure I need jumbo frames here though :)

@Phipli thanks for all your work on this, it's awesome. The control strip works great. I do have some 60ns VRAM coming (it was easier to buy the new ones from Kero's mac mods store than find OEM). I also have MC88916DW80 on the way. I am probably not averse to trying to push the machine a little harder in the future, but the control strip is 95% of the way there with 0% of the risk.

Latest pic:
withbluescsi_cropped.jpeg
Current status:
- PDS card installed! Works well with normal MTU and network. Has issues with some things, probably would recommend just using a travel router if you have a fancy local network to isolate it.
- BlueSCSI installed! It is awesome. Found two potential issues, mostly resolved:
- The DaynaPORT drivers are a mess. For 7.6.1, use the 7.5.3 installer, and maybe just copy the DRVR resource from it into the system and install nothing else. Spent a while dealing with extension conflicts, and ended up reinstalling Apple ethernet drivers and OT afterward. With two cards, my PDS shows up as "Ethernet (slot 14)" and the DaynaPORT as "Alternate Ethernet". Haven't found the strings to change these.
- The BlueSCSI has several bugs related to ExFAT filesystems, and not all of them are fixed. I will file a bug upstream (or add to the existing one), but it's somehow possible to have an hda image that is blank to linux (all zeroes) be bootable and contain data to the bluescsi. I think this may be related to sparse files, in addition to the existing issues with file lengths. Recommend FAT32 for new installs!
- Sound still doesn't work because RPT-60A shipping is very slow :(

New issue:
Sad mac on about every other boot. Code is usual 0xf 0x1, sometimes 0x16 I think. Removing everything removable doesn't fix this. I think it's a ROM addressing error? Board inspection around the ROMs seems fine to me. I still need to reflow all the new caps to make sure they are soundly connected, so a cold solder is a possible cause. Still investigating that, not sure if BlueSCSI disk read strangeness with ExFAT could crash it, another possible cause.
 
Using the nomenclature here: https://tinkerdifferent.com/resources/sad-mac-error-codes.82/

The Sad Mac I get every couple of boots in a while is
XXXX = 0x0000
YYYY = 0x000f
ZZZZ = 0x01 (I've seen another number here, I can try more and see if I can get it)

That document says YYYY value of "F" is "Reserved for macintosh compatibility", which sounds strange.

Since this started around BlueSCSI, PDS Ethernet, 68040 time, I can try going back to the IBM SCSI disk to rule out the BlueSCSI. I can reproduce this with the PDS ethernet disconnected, which surprised me because it was my prime suspect. I guess next suspects are the solders on my recap job or the bluescsi, I'd expect a bad CPU to have more runtime side effects.
 
BlueSCSI released an update, I applied it, and I can't get a Sad Mac anymore...it sounds like a SCSI signals timing issue, maybe. Or maybe it just happens when the machine has been on for a while, which could be a cold solder. Still debugging, but I was able to reboot six times without a sad mac, so that's something.

I also found IPNetTuner. I was looking for some other thing and found this: https://discmaster.textfiles.com/search which searches file indexes on Archive.org. Probably the most awesome website I've found in a while.

Lo and behold, a Japanese Mac Magazine CD had a copy of it on four seperate occassions. It does allow setting the MTU, as well as the tons of params @adespoton memtioned.
 
BlueSCSI released an update, I applied it, and I can't get a Sad Mac anymore...it sounds like a SCSI signals timing issue, maybe. Or maybe it just happens when the machine has been on for a while, which could be a cold solder. Still debugging, but I was able to reboot six times without a sad mac, so that's something.

I also found IPNetTuner. I was looking for some other thing and found this: https://discmaster.textfiles.com/search which searches file indexes on Archive.org. Probably the most awesome website I've found in a while.

Lo and behold, a Japanese Mac Magazine CD had a copy of it on four seperate occassions. It does allow setting the MTU, as well as the tons of params @adespoton memtioned.
I think that's probably the tool I was thinking of; the config interface looks the same as what I remember. Took a few tries for me to get everything stable, but the performance boost was very noticeable once complete.
 
@shirsch
Nice! I'm going to try to go passive heatsink if I can, but that is interesting. Is it loud? Was also thinking of trying to rig thermal conductivity to the RF shield of the top case, because that is very large, thin and metal.

@adespoton
I also found https://discmaster.textfiles.com/br...cintosh Archives/Internet/OTAdvancedTuner.sit which might be similar, I haven't tried it yet, but seeing that archive name gave me a flashback. I did play around with window size and other stuff with IPNetTuner and got a sustained 180k/sec, which is fine I guess. Still no dice on the modern network even with mtu 9000, but I may try more to see what happens at some point.
 
That little fan has a noticeable whir to it, but it's better than an overheated CPU. At 40 MHz. it was getting uncomfortably hot when run without forced air flow. It probably has a lot to do with the die-stepping of the CPU. Some of the later 68040 shrinks were better able to deal with higher clock speeds.
 
@shirsch
Nice! I'm going to try to go passive heatsink if I can, but that is interesting. Is it loud? Was also thinking of trying to rig thermal conductivity to the RF shield of the top case, because that is very large, thin and metal.

@adespoton
I also found https://discmaster.textfiles.com/browse/12233/Freaks Macintosh Archive.bin/Freaks Macintosh Archives/Internet/OTAdvancedTuner.sit which might be similar, I haven't tried it yet, but seeing that archive name gave me a flashback. I did play around with window size and other stuff with IPNetTuner and got a sustained 180k/sec, which is fine I guess. Still no dice on the modern network even with mtu 9000, but I may try more to see what happens at some point.
Hah; that CD! I did a sanity check on the flyleaf for Freaky on that one; still have the CD from the test run around somewhere. I seem to recall using that tool later in OS 9; not sure if it works with 68k Macs or not, or if it's for OT 1.2 and up.
 
That little fan has a noticeable whir to it, but it's better than an overheated CPU. At 40 MHz. it was getting uncomfortably hot when run without forced air flow. It probably has a lot to do with the die-stepping of the CPU. Some of the later 68040 shrinks were better able to deal with higher clock speeds.
I replaced mine with a Noctua A4x10, it's a drop-in replacement and virtually silent with the low noise adapter. I loop the excess cable under the SCSI ribbon - this photo is a WIP assembly but you get the idea. Highly recommended, it's so quiet now!

IMG_6147.jpeg
 
Any of the later 040s (02E31F, E42K, L88M, K63H) will do 40Mhz+ without issue regardless of marked frequency and won't be substantially different in power consumption/heat/max frequency between the various models.

There's no need to go overkill on the cooling, more or less any heatsink is enough to when combined with the stock fan orientation to pull air across it. You should use a different heatsink than the one you linked here though - yours has a high density fin stack that's intended to have air forced through it eg. in a server or similar. You want something low density for this.

A low profile chipset cooler on the CPU is also more than enough. I collected some part numbers here.
 
@killvore that is definitely a clean look. I noticed I can hear the CPU back EMF in the default Elina fan, so I will probably go this route. Its not too bad though, wondering if greasing it might make it quieter. I can't reassemble the case until I have a form-factor appropriate PSU set up, currently have an ATX 300W sitting beside it with the green wire jumpered, so I haven't tested how well it works with the case closed.

@zigzagjoe I stopped trying to use that heatsink because it didn't fit with the PDS installed. The one I have in the picture is working really well with Shin-Etsu paste and the fan pointed at it, at least. Mine is an 02E31F I think, 68040HRC33. I still am not sure whether the H is actually temperature related, but it is probaby 50-60F without a heatsink, and runs fine with the gold one (I have no idea what that is from, parts box heatsink).

@adespoton those were the days, I probably spent too much time building RealBasic bypass tools (installed via IE exploit of course) for At Ease and making hotline bots to fight other hotline bots.
 
I have to check it out. I've been using hotline to distribute files to my various mac projects, and 1.2.3 is pretty limited for 68k.

Progress so far:
- RPT-60A installed. Had to replace a fuse at one point, I think when I installed it upside down. Protip: insulate the top and the bottom.
- I have a 128MB SIMM but it doesn't click closed, the chips are a little taller. Tempted to shave the chip or the socket, but so far I've been good
- Sound works now that I have a -5v supply, no issues there
- Two caps with partially lifted pads came off due to user stupidity and lack of hot glue. So far it runs fine with these gone, but probably need to replace them (second RAM bypass cap, one of the floppy supply bypass caps)

Getting close to done. I'm a little terrified to replace the clock chip until I get better with hot air.
 
Using the control strip, I can set it to 40 or 45MHz, but clockometer won't go over about 37MHz.
I've had the same experience. I've wondered if it has something to do with the tolerances of the RAM and/or VRAM I'm using.
 
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