My first SE/30 - will I be happy or sad?

[techknight]

Honestly I think in this case, you should pick up one of @Bolle reloaded SE/30 boards and move all the proprietary bits over to a new board and build it out. Best course of action here.

 

[Chopsticks]

Wasn't intending to upset anyone just suggesting more info. Not everyone is great at fixing and yes some people do charge for their time. Personally I reckon that's OK it's up to the individual to choose what's right for them.

the problem with many so called 'experts' who change money to fix vintage Macs or computers etc its that sadly many don't actually know the correct way to repair or fix things. over the years ive worked in electronics its shocked me more times then I care to admit in respect to the poor quality of repair work being done. to be fair there are people who actually know what they are doing and do good clean work. I guess the point im trying to make is that should you send a board off to get repaired just ask around and make sure they have a good reputation first.
personally I do my own repairs, but I have been trained so it makes sense for me to go that route.

A couple thing worth mentioning is that even with all that cleaning you have done you really need to desolder and remove any SMT chips that have been exposed to corrosion. the pcb below those chips likely has 'battery goo/acid still there'. probably good practice to straight out replace UD8 and any other badly corroded chips as they will eventually fail (due to the extensive corrosion on the pins its only a matter of time)
more could be said but honestly id just get a reloaded board myself and move parts over these days as long term reliability will be much better

 

[chiptripper]

Honestly I think in this case, you should pick up one of Bolle reloaded SE/30 boards and move all the proprietary bits over to a new board and build it out. Best course of action here.

A couple thing worth mentioning is that even with all that cleaning you have done you really need to desolder and remove any SMT chips that have been exposed to corrosion. the pcb below those chips likely has 'battery goo/acid still there'. probably good practice to straight out replace UD8 and any other badly corroded chips as they will eventually fail (due to the extensive corrosion on the pins its only a matter of time)
more could be said but honestly id just get a reloaded board myself and move parts over these days as long term reliability will be much better

Yes I think this is the way. It'd be satisfying to bring back the original board but I'll just worry about continuing rot in places I can't get to.

Re: UD8 etc, totally. I'm concerned about a handful of Apple ASICs that have corroded pins. In this regard the cap goo did more damage than the battery. Not sure how easily I'll source replacements.