• Hello MLAers! We've re-enabled auto-approval for accounts. If you are still waiting on account approval, please check this thread for more information.

I've broken my Titanium :(((

galgot

6502
Argggg….Due to the fans starting really soon after boot, wanted to change the thermal paste, so disassembled it. Was very difficult to remove the board. It was stuck to the heat sink, was careful though i had to force and it came with a "clok" noise… No apparent damage on the board/CPU… so cleaned up the old thermal paste on heat sink and CPU, and replaced it with some ArticSilver paste. re-assembled it. no boot, nothing … only the cap lock key lights when pressed, and the power plug lights green…

 
So i suppose i've damaged the board… Stupid Me. Well i'm p… off, it's a beautiful 1 Ghz (was, now 0 Ghz…) Titanium, in mint condition. 
 
Now have to find a board.
 
(PS, sorry for coming crying here :p but i know you know what it is…)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I feel your pain, I did something almost exactly the same. All you want to do is keep a beautiful machine running and it ends up breaking. 

Let me know if you find an expensive source of replacement motherboards!

 
Did you install the RAM? It has to be in at least one specific slot. But I am not sure which one. Years ago I had repaired numerous TiBooks, but now I forget most of that knowledge.

 
Yes, it has two 512mb . I've googled "titanium won't start" and find a trick, starting the machine with shift-ctrl-power button, tried that this morning. It made some sound like the drive starting , but no chime. Then after 3 or 4 tries , it stayed silent again , nothing...

I did found a board, but a 867Mhz... 1Ghz ones are rare.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
you probably knocked off an SMD component or two by rubbing tools, or frame-rails against it by accident. 

There is the rare case you actually pulled some BGA balls loose from the board between it, and the CPU. But its rare... 

 
you probably knocked off an SMD component or two by rubbing tools, or frame-rails against it by accident. 

There is the rare case you actually pulled some BGA balls loose from the board between it, and the CPU. But its rare...
Yeah... The CPU was really stuck to the heat sink. Like glued with that old black thermal paste. Was looking like hard plastic.

@ olePigeon - thanks ! Send you a PM.

 
So that Ti-1Ghz is back to life :)

got another board from a delerict Ti-1Ghz bought for 20 Euros (broken screen, broken hinges, wrecked case...), swapped it, been VERY careful this time. cleaned and changed the old thermal paste.

But strangely, it would only if i zap the PRAM, i had to do 5 - 6 chimes, no less, otherwise it would show the question mark... also would not wake from sleep. PMU reset would do nothing...

been looking for a solution for a week, then found on a forum today, "start with Shift-Ctrl-Power..."

with no other explanations, never heard of that start-up key comb before...

Anyway, it worked ! Boot like new. Happy ;D

 
Once I had the same issue with another PowerBook G4. The fan activity became annoying, thus I decided to dismantle and reassemble the heat pipe and fan assembly. The black thermal glue used in the manufacturing process is quite difficult to remove. To avoid any shorts caused by newly applied thermal grease, I used a compound that is only thermal conductive (no metal particles used). However, the problem was not solved, if not made worse. Probably it was not an aged thermal contact but only a series of software updates that lead to the issue. On many machines a most effective way to permanently run the fan on full throttle is just to fire up M$ Office…

After working a while on thermo electric generators, I learned a little which applies to heat spreader assemblies, as well: Any thing you put into the thermal conductive path from a heat source (here: CPU) to a heat sink (here: environmental air) actually _increases_ the thermal resistance of this path. Think of an analogon in electrical resistances. The thermal resistance may be understood as a connection of individual resistors in series, which consists of the ceramic tile of the CPU, the heat spreader (with or without heat pipe system), the thermal transmission resistance from the heat spreader to environmental air (made as small as possible by fan propelled ventilation) and, of course, the thermal resistance of the small gap between the CPU tile and the heat spreader. If this gap is filled with air, it makes a large heat transmission resistance. Thus usually some stuff is put into the gap which conducts heat much better than air. However, even expensive silver compounds do add to the overall thermal resistance, in direct proportion to the thickness of the gap filled with the compound. Thus the amount of thermal paste always should be kept at a minimum to fill evenly the gap between surfaces in contact. Particles in thermal compounds lead to a minimum gap width of about the diameter of the largest particles in the compound. For smooth and even surfaces a much better solution than a particle filled compound might be a small amount of silicone oil or silicone grease (like this stuff: https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/aldrich/85402). This allows the gap to become as small as possible.

But beware: Silicone oil or grease or also silicone rubber casting compound or mastic is never again completely removable. Traces always remain on the surface and will not allow to durable glue or paint this surface. Many thermal conductive compounds contain silicone grease, as it is thermal and chemical very stable. When applying such stuff, be careful not to spread traces of it all around your workplace. It pays to use examination gloves and to change them frequently. Keep silicone stuff apart from other agents, in a separate box.

Before taking apart a PB G4's heat pipe assembly, make sure the air cooled surfaces are clean, without a fur of dust particles. Do _not_ blow compressed air through the fan, as spinning it up to a revolution speed beyond specification may damage the bearings. Also check for a correlation of fan noise and the System software you are running (Panther, Leopard, other…). On the G4 I prefer 10.4 a lot over 10.5, for the ability to seamlessly run the Classic software environment instead of SheepShaver.

P.S.: thermal conductive glue is not recomended for home use in CPU heat spreader applications. It necessarily must be applied with a minimum gap width to keep thermal stress low enough to avoid low cycle fatigue. Also it may easily end up with a total mess of cured epoxy resin, encumbering further treatment.

 
Again having problems with that Ti :-/

On power up, it invariably shows the question mark. It also makes a strange noise like

Weeeeezzzzz ..... Weeeeeezzzz :) not very loud. To make it see the drive I have to zap Pram 5 to 6 times, then the weeezz goes , and I can hear the hd starting ( krrr krrr krrr noises, please note my talent for PowerBook imitation ).

Also , if I put it to sleep for more than say an hour, the drive won't run, I mean the system runs, but if I try to access the disk from the icon on the desktop, I get the beach ball forever, and no hd noise...

The crazy thing is I've swapped mainboard twice ( both ok, tested on another machine, but I want to have this one working cause it's mint externally... ), changed the hd, changed the power card . So I don't know what the problem could be... Guess I will end up taking the all guts of the other (no good looking) working one to put it in there...

could it be the Pram battery ? Any ideas ?

 
Back
Top