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Reverse Engineering the Macintosh Classic PCB for 1:1 reproduction


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8 hours ago, anthon said:

I understood the purpose of the resin, but not being a mechanical engineer person didn't understand how one would accomplish it. Thanks @Trash80toHP_Mini for explaining one possible way to do it. Sounds like it might be more suited to a CNC mill (for the leveling part) than a manual mill like I had in my head.

 

1 oz copper is 0.035 mm thick... that's some mighty precise leveling to pull off.

 

Mom's dad was a master machinist at GE during WWII and well into my youth. I'll bet he could have pulled this off using the manual tools in his basement machine shops. He made and fixed the machines used to fabricate the machines that produced the factory floor machines used roll out mass quantities of war machines.

 

.035mm = 1.38 mil, how much of that thick copper cladding did you want shaved off? [:)]

 

 

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini
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Oh wow. I just pulled my Classic from storage (no battery, I'm not stup...erm well, I shoulda maybe checked. The caps leaked and ate some traces. I might be a customer if I can't fix the damage.

 

Great work.

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19 hours ago, yuhong said:

I am surprised that people are focusing on the SE and Classic, when the Plus should be much easier.

 

There is barely any need for fresh Plus, 512K(e) or 128K boards. Those had the battery in a separate compartment attached to the analog board, thus battery corrosion practically never reaches the logic board. That, coupled with the axial through hole capacitors that are not known for leaking, means most of those boards are just fine, all these decades later. Unlike the SE, SE/30 and Classics, which have the battery on the board, which is prone to completely exploding all over the surrounding area with corrosive fluid.

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I suspect it's just more a situation of what machines Kai had. :) And that he had a FDHD/SuperDrive, not an original SE. Those Vartas on the original SE just don't explode. (At least not yet.)

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On 4/5/2021 at 6:13 AM, Daniël Oosterhuis said:

 

There is barely any need for fresh Plus, 512K(e) or 128K boards. Those had the battery in a separate compartment attached to the analog board, thus battery corrosion practically never reaches the logic board. That, coupled with the axial through hole capacitors that are not known for leaking, means most of those boards are just fine, all these decades later. Unlike the SE, SE/30 and Classics, which have the battery on the board, which is prone to completely exploding all over the surrounding area with corrosive fluid.

On the other hand, the only custom chip on the Mac Plus board is the IWM.

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On 4/6/2021 at 5:22 AM, yuhong said:

On the other hand, the only custom chip on the Mac Plus board is the IWM.

 

But that's partly it, isn't it.  Part of the fun of it is the challenge.

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Well, to clarify - yes, the SE was a specific target, I didn't have one, saw the battery issues and realised that the SE is the ideal target machine: -

 

Original 68k, but without the issues of a lot of PAL's on it, still has SIMM support, has 1.4MB floppy support and DUAL ones at that, ADB support means that keyboards/mice are easier to source, has a PDS slot, and is upgradeable, and it's the last pure through hole board iirc. Everything the Plus has but...betterer.

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On 4/7/2021 at 2:35 AM, Kai Robinson said:

Original 68k, but without the issues of a lot of PAL's on it, still has SIMM support, has 1.4MB floppy support and DUAL ones at that, ADB support means that keyboards/mice are easier to source, has a PDS slot, and is upgradeable, and it's the last pure through hole board iirc. Everything the Plus has but...betterer.

 

Don't forget, it has internal SCSI as well. The Plus can be modded as such, but the SE is definitely easier to internally mount a SCSI2SD/MacSCSI/BlueSCSI/etc.

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