JohnWorkman Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Greetings, This is my first post on this excellent forum. The content here was extremely helpful for me to recap my SE/30. "Mac Con for IISi SE/30. P/N 09-00005-00 REV. C2" Background I acquired an SE/30 with an Asante MacCon card installed on eBay a few months ago. I recapped the motherboard, power supply, and analog board as well as gave it a deep cleaning. I also removed the hard drive and floppy drive and connected the SCSI on it to the excellent RaSCSI board. All is up and working perfectly now except the network card. The first thing I noticed is that the fuse on the daughterboard was blown; likely someone in the distant past tried to plug a Mac Monitor into the DB15 AUI port and this shorted AUI pin 13 (+12V) to ground. I replaced the fuse and got my AUI transciever to power on. Symptoms Card doesn't seem to work. Asante Troubleshooter told me "NIC Transmission Failed" no matter what I did. Frustrated, I moved the slot-select jumpers on the card to off for both JP1 and JP2 which selects slot B. After doing this, the card worked... for a while. Long enough for me to install netatalk on my Raspberry Pi and get a network drive mounted on the SE/30. I think after restarting the Mac, the card stopped working. I am not sure if setting it to slot B did anything, but I believe it's just a coincidence. Asante troubleshooter says "NIC Transmission Failed". But it also (rarely) sometimes says "NIC Transmission Failed. Collision Detected" and even "NIC Transmission Failed. Carrier sense not detected" (Or something like this, sorry, didn't get a screenshot). At one point, I had it telling me that the carrier wasn't detected but only when the RJ45 cable wasn't connected to the AUI to 10Base-T transceiever. The Raspberry Pi the card is directly connected to auto-negotiates correctly as 10Mb/s half-duplex. Observations When I click the "Test" button in Asante Troubleshooter with only "Network Interface Controller Test" selected. Sometimes the yellow LED on the daugherboard blinks, but only if I've set the switch on the daugherboard to TN instead of TK. If I set the switch back to TK, the LED continues to blink on "test" until resetting the machine. Sometimes the Tx LED on my transceiver blinks when I click the "Test" button, but no packets are seen in the raspberry pi I have directly connected when running tcpdump. Troubleshooting ideas Acquire a 10Base-2 hub and see if I can make this work through thinnet. Start replacing the transceiver ICs on both the MacCon card and its daugherboard. Any other thoughts? I'm totally stumped and would LOVE to have this card working. I was ecstatic for the hour that I had netatalk serving files to my SE/30. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cheesestraws Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 What happens if you force the interface on the Pi to be 10/Half? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beachycove Posted December 21, 2020 Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 Something real simple like Ping (to the SE/30) doesn’t work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2020 21 hours ago, cheesestraws said: What happens if you force the interface on the Pi to be 10/Half? On the RPI I did "ethtool -s eth0 speed 10 duplex half autoneg off". Doing this makes me lose auto mdix, so a crossover cable is required. I connected with a crossover cable to the rpi with the forced media settings and I get the same result. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted December 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2020 20 hours ago, beachycove said: Something real simple like Ping (to the SE/30) doesn’t work? Correct. It won't even respond to arp requests. In fact, not a single packet is sent from the SE/30. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted December 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2020 If I leave the computer on for a few hours, and then power cycle it, the card then seems to work. I've tested this twice now. Perhaps temperature related? Bad connection someplace? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cheesestraws Posted December 24, 2020 Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 23 hours ago, JohnWorkman said: If I leave the computer on for a few hours, and then power cycle it, the card then seems to work. I've tested this twice now. Perhaps temperature related? Bad connection someplace? Hmmm, that does sound like a hardware error, then, yes. You're heading out of my area of expertise here, I'm afraid. Suggestion: leave it until it works with the case off, then squirt that compressed-air-in-a-tin that makes things cold on the back of the card to see if you can get it to break? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 After building a new 14 pin molex cable to run the motherboard comfortably outside the computer, I did some experiments warming up the Ethernet card using pocket hand warmers. I determined that the crystal that is right next to the DP83901V chip needs to be slightly warmer than room temperature in order to start up. If I touch that crystal with my soldering iron set to the very lowest temperature for a few seconds before powering the cold machine on, everything works! Based on some notes in the datasheet for the DP83907 (I assume similar controller), I've ordered a replacement oscillator and I will report back to this thread with my findings in the hopes that this is helpful to others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cheesestraws Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Well found! Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 On 1/8/2021 at 2:23 AM, cheesestraws said: Well found! Let us know how it goes. I replaced the crystal today. The card seems to work perfectly now! I have never fixed anything electronic like this before. It took a while to narrow the problem down, but turned out to be well worth it. After replacing the capacitors in the motherboard, analog board, and PSU, all I have left is to fix the floppy drive and I will have a perfect SE/30! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cannfoddr Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 On 1/7/2021 at 4:58 PM, JohnWorkman said: After building a new 14 pin molex cable to run the motherboard comfortably outside the computer, I did some experiments warming up the Ethernet card using pocket hand warmers. I determined that the crystal that is right next to the DP83901V chip needs to be slightly warmer than room temperature in order to start up. If I touch that crystal with my soldering iron set to the very lowest temperature for a few seconds before powering the cold machine on, everything works! Based on some notes in the datasheet for the DP83907 (I assume similar controller), I've ordered a replacement oscillator and I will report back to this thread with my findings in the hopes that this is helpful to others. is the cable for an SE/30 - I am looking to build one of these and replace the logic board connector. Do you have a part reference for the connectors? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnWorkman Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 2 hours ago, cannfoddr said: Do you have a part reference for the connectors? I sure do! I'd never crimped molex before, I found a nice crimper for about $20 on Amazon which got the job done nicely. Just don't use 600v 18awg wire like I did or you will not have a fun time crimping. Use 300v wire instead. analogboard<->motherboard: I have built this cable and the parts are definitely correct. Receptacle: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039012140 Receptacle Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000039 Plug: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039013143 Plug Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000041 Header: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/pcb_headers/0039281143 PSU<->AnalogBoard: I haven't built this cable, but do have the parts and confirm they fit. Receptacle: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039012100 Receptacle Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000039 Plug: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039013103 Plug Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000041 Header: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/pcb_headers/0039281103 Deflection<->analogBoard: I had to replace the header on my analog board as well as the receptacle connector attached to the deflection yoke because mine were very burned and brittle. The female pins selected here are the "high current" variety in the hopes that they don't burn again. Male Pin: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0002092611 Female Pin: 42477 https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0002091615 Receptacle: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0019091049 Plug: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0019092046 Header: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/pcb_headers/0015311046 CRT heater/gun <-> analog board I don't have this part, so I am less sure on this one... but this is likely the correct one. Receptacle: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039012120 Receptacle Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000039 Plug: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0039013123 Plug Pins: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0039000041 Header: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/pcb_headers/0039281123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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