Jump to content

SE/30 Simasimac persists after recap


Recommended Posts

Sorry, my multimeter is complete crap, it doesn't even do capacitance test, it only does voltage and resistance test, and it updates at a rather low frequency,so i dont think it's going to be useful. I'll just wash the board again and hope in the slim chance i missed some electrolyte that's been causing shorts

Link to post
Share on other sites

After washing the board, and rinsing it again, after it had dried for a while, weird white spots had appearad around some of the caps, now all of the caps i installed were brand new, installed with the right polarity, and the water i used was just warm, but not hot tap water and dish washing soap, it seemed to center around capacitors, could this have been old electrolyte that i missed getting off the first time, or is it from my fresh installed caps? I rubbed some off with a finger and it didn't smell fishy. Anyway it came off easily with a Q-tip and denaturated ethanol. Could be flux from my sloppy soldering job

 

https://imgur.com/a/xkjCy7b

Edited by Riilu
Link to post
Share on other sites

Drying it in front of a space heater for a few hours (very effective, heats the entire board up, so there was no water at all left), tried it again, no dice. Seems this board is just no good. Poo, guess i can sell for spare parts since i wont be able to afford anything to test the damn thing with in many months.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I once posed that same question, and while it may theoretically be possible, the pinouts are likely different, and you risk blowing up the Classic II's power supply, the SE/30 board, or both if you don't rig up some sort of adapter.

 

Probably best to try another SE/30 power supply (one from a plain SE should work too, as they're the same part).

 

c

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well then, I don't think I can get just the supply without buying a whole functioning SE or SE/30 where I live, so i'm probably better off inspecting the analog board on the SE/30 tomorrow and look for any bulged or leaking capacitors, might as well take out the CRT and retrobright the thing, it's a bit yellowed. Yes I will discharge the CRT and handle the analog board like it's a bomb

Edited by Riilu
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

So I removed the RAM upgrades installed and ran it on just the 4 sticks, i powered it on, and instead of the simasimac pattern, the screen had that normal screen background as expected, but the floppy disk icon didn't appear, so i figured "oh maybe it needs the floppy drive" so i plugged the FDD back in since the HDD doesn't work and i turned the machine back on again, but now the simasimac pattern was back, so I turned it back off, unplugged the floppy, turned it back on, and now the simasimac pattern was still there, restarted yet again, and it still had the simasmiac pattern. This computer really isn't nice to me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, Riilu said:

So I removed the RAM upgrades installed and ran it on just the 4 sticks, i powered it on, and instead of the simasimac pattern, the screen had that normal screen background as expected, but the floppy disk icon didn't appear, so i figured "oh maybe it needs the floppy drive" so i plugged the FDD back in since the HDD doesn't work and i turned the machine back on again, but now the simasimac pattern was back, so I turned it back off, unplugged the floppy, turned it back on, and now the simasimac pattern was still there, restarted yet again, and it still had the simasmiac pattern. This computer really isn't nice to me.

You try just giving it a nice hard wack on the analog side of the case? I have a fully recapped se/30 and if I don't use it for a few weeks it gets grumpy and dosen't post to the happy mac. Hitting it fixes it. :^)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends what that voltage is used for. Most ICs run on 5v or 3.3v. If the -12 isn't used to run an IC it's probably fine. I come from arcade repair where we watch our 5v closely but not so much 12v. 12v is usually used for fans or audio amps with wide tolerances. 

Edited by Skate323k137
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
On 5/24/2018 at 3:18 AM, Riilu said:

Well I'm probably gonna give up on this repair until i can either find a replacement board, or the tools necessary to actually find the problem. Probably some complex memory problem

Happened to have the same issue after recap.  I fixed it.  Turns out there was a short between C8-C10 and a line next to these caps.  Wasn't visible to my eyes at all but my wire trace showed there was a short there.  I re-soldered them.  The short disappeared and it booted to normal. 

Edited by 9166188
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...