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OCCUPATION

  1. I thought I'd post this here to perhaps help some. I have a Classic II which worked OK, but with only a faint sound. So I thought I'd recap, but only those caps I guessed were involved in sound. Started with C11, C12, C14 and C15: no help Then C9: no help After I changed C4 (47uF), I finally got a loud bong. However, I lost the mouse pointer Thinking I must have shot C5 and C8 while hot-airing that area to desolder, I changed them too, and I recovered the mouse pointer So everything looked fine, except for a heavy random hissing/whistling of t
  2. Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of which it was used as a door stop at my old high school). Re-cap went smoothly, and afterwards I cleaned the board with soap and a toothbrush, pressure washed with hot water, then shook and sat to dry overnight. Powered on the next day and I get a chime but no video. I decided to have a go at re-flowing UE8
  3. Hi, This is my first post on these forums. I felt this would be the best place to come to ask how to get my Macintosh SE working again. So I managed to get my hands on this Macintosh SE. It came with the original manuals, mouse, keyboard, and even a carry bag! I paid around $5 New Zealand dollars for it. Yes I can't believe it either. So when I got it home, I plugged it in and it turned on, and it worked! I think that the disk drive is dead, because it just had the disk logo with a question mark and ejected the yellow protector disk. I left it
  4. Recapping a Macintosh IIsi Power Supply Related reference (cheat sheet): http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/ or on archive.org, http://web.archive.org/web/20191125110228/http://recapamac.com.au/macintosh-iisi-power-supply/
  5. Hello! I've decided to recap the analog boards in my Macintosh SE and SE/30 and now I need to buy the caps and I'm wondering a few things: - which company should I buy the caps from (there's quite a lot of different companies and I don't really know which ones to buy)? - should the max operating temperature be 105 C or is 85 C enough, considering that the SE and the SE/30 have a fan? - is it okay to buy the caps from AliExperss (I know that Mouser is generally the best for capacitor purchases, but the shipping is quite expensive, because I'm located in a smaller co
  6. Hi folks, this is my first post here and I’m looking for some help diagnosing yet another video issue with a Mac SE/30 - hoping that someone could point me in the right direction. Usual story, dug the Mac out of storage to find it didn’t boot, display full of stripes and noise. Removed the caps, cleaned out the electrolyte, dirt and oxide, replaced caps. The board looks great, no visible broken traces and squeaky clean. Connected to power, the Mac chimes, POSTs and boots all the way to the Finder normally, the mouse and floppy work. The issue is only the left quarter o
  7. So this is not about the retrobrite that the 8-bit guy completed, that turned out very nice. Instead it is about this really bad video he did, sorry I know some of you may like him but this video was wrong in so many ways that I had to warn potential viewers. I couldn't comment on youtube because they were not available for this video. Do not twist off caps from any logic board, it's not in the manual as it were for a reason … you run the risk of ripping of the pads that capacitors are soldered to. Once a pad is removed through the force of twisting off
  8. I'm in the planning process to recap the SONY PSU housed inside my Apple HD20SC external hard drive enclosure. (I might make a video.) I've got a Mouser cart filled with mostly Organic Polymer Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors for that PSU (see below), which have very low ESR down to between 12mΩ and 43mΩ. There are many benefits to low ESR capacitors, and the life rating on them is very high compared to regular aluminum electrolytics. But my concern is that the output of some switch-mode (switching) power supplies can ring if the ESR of the output capacitance is too low (as per the data sh
  9. Hi Guys, i brought a used a/b analogue board/sony psu combo as a temporary replacement for my se/30’s whilst i recap and clear up my original items. The replacement board is from an SE which I believe is identical? Basically I’ve been experiencing some minor shimmers/flickering especially when cold (3-4 months now) so i thought it was about time to re-cap both my analogue board and psu as the motherboard had already been recapped some time ago, including a new battery. Question is psu board looks a little unusual, at first i though it was spilt liquid of leaking capacitors yet on inspecti
  10. It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today. Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K. Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need. Enjoy.
  11. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and
  12. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in
  13. I have a functional Xceed grayscale adapter that looks exactly like joethezombie's photo. There are 4 electrolytic radial capacitors that are old enough to warrant replacing, especially so since they are only temperature rated up to 85°C: C4: 10uF, 16V C5: 47uF, 10V C8: 100uF, 16V C9: 100uF, 63V There are numerous 10,000-hour 105°C rated replacements available on Mouser. Have any of you grayscale adapter owners performed a recap on your adapter? And more specifically, do any of you understand the function of the adapter well enough to know if replaceme
  14. Hi Everyone, My Classic II arrived! Cosmetically, it's beautiful, but it definitely needs recapping. The electrolyte fluid leak is very obvious. I don't see any corrosion, so that's good. Anyway, I have tried to do my homework, and figure as much of this out as possible. But I've hit a point where I am stuck, and I could use some help. My board has 13 capacitors. Looking at the reference for my board at maccaps.com, I see that I need to buy the following replacements capacitors: 8 - 10µf - 16V - SMT 3 - 47µf - 16V - SMT 2 - 1µf - 50V -SMT
  15. Hi All, I got a chance to inspect each of the 3 SE/30 motherboards I have for 2 systems. It has been a few years since I have looked at these and I am pretty certain I sent 2 of these away for a recap job however I am not an capacitor expert and could use help identifying the work done on each. Apology in advance for the quality of the photos. This is the board that came in my original SE/30: I thought I had this one worked however those appear to be the original caps. Is that correct? This is a socketed board I got off of eBay that looks like wo
  16. Hello people! I recently acquired a Mac Plus while doing a clean out of my grandfather's old factory. The keyboard and mouse were FUBAR, as they had been left under an old can of paint which leaked all over them. He said that there was also a hard drive somewhere, but we couldn't find it. I scrubbed as much old paint of this Mac as I could, and besides from a rather even coat of yellowing, it seems to be in pretty good nick. I took it home and plugged it in, and it made the start up bong and the floppy drive made noises, but the screen never fired up. I cracked open the case and be
  17. Hello I am going to be reworking the logic board on an SE/30 and am looking for a list of capacitors for the board. The board I have has already gone through a repair by an unknown third party and I intend to remove all the caps he put in place. I would like to install the original electrolytic capacitors and other caps that the board hosted. I don't want to go with tantalum capacitors because of their very disruptive end of life characteristics, namely they can blow up. I would appreciate if someone in the know could provide me a list of caps and their respective locations.
  18. Ran into an issue where my power adapter for my Powerbook 540c was outputting 16v on one pin, but only 2.xv on the other pin so my 540c would no longer start up. Took the PA apart(it's epoxied together) and discovered 6 capacitors. 2x 330uf - 25v, 2x 100uf 200v, and 2x 100uf 25v. The part numbers can bee seen in the picture. While the capacitors didn't look bad, I knew they were 20 some years old and it was time to swap em out. Sure enough, as soon as I soldered in the new caps I got 16v back on both pins and my Powerbook 540c is happy again!
  19. Hi all, Picked up a Mac Portable 5120 (non-backlit) last week; before powering it up, I removed the logic board, removed the caps from it - all of them, except the tantalum cap on the hybrid board - cleaned the board, replaced the caps, and got a new black 6v 4.5ah brick battery. Putting it all back together, it won't boot off of the battery alone - the screen flickers, and it either hangs on a flickering mouse-pointer screen, or flips over to the chimes of death. With the original Macintosh Portable power adapter and new battery connected, it will boot 90% of the time. When it fa
  20. I recapped my SE/30, and the repair failed to fix it. Prior to recap, the Mac had horizontal bars from top to bottom and no chime. The attached photo shows the screen after recap was completed, and still no chime. I checked to make sure RAM was installed properly. Also, if I remove the RAM, the horizontal bar pattern returns. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I apologize if the pic is oriented incorrectly. The uploader does this automatically and I'm not sure how to rotate the photo.
  21. Hi everyone. I thought I'd take the time to create a post about my recapping adventure, and maybe take the opportunity to ask a few questions. If the is dry reading for you, I apologize. I'm not known for being a good storyteller. So, for starters - A several months ago, I acquired a Macintosh SE and a Macintosh Classic. The SE appeared to work just fine (still has original caps on board), and was in overall good condition with minimal yellowing. The Classic would boot fine, but had no sound, and the case had significant yellowing. I removed the logic board from the Classic to find that al
  22. I picked up a Macintosh Classic at an electronic waste roundup the other week. Despite the case being badly discoloured and giving a RAM-related Sad Mac on boot, I could tell that the Quantum HD was still spinning and the display is really sharp. The machine has its problems, and I'm wondering if it's worth refurbing. Your advice/opinions on the following are welcomed: Capacitors — I recapped the logic board and replaced the PRAM battery. The logic board caps had all leaked, and cleaning up the mess was not fun. The battery, though dead, hadn't leaked. The Fishy Smell — The analogue bo
  23. I've bought a Macintosh Classic computer recently, it was in a very nice condition with original keyboard and mouse, but with an issue of a chessboard-like pattern displayed on the screen all the time. At first I thought that it might be caused by capacitors leak on the logic board, but after I've cleaned the logic board in a dishwasher and than with pure alcohol, nothing happened — the pattern on display was the same. So I decided that caps are dead and need to be replaced. I've replaced all the capacitors on the logic board, but again with no result. After that I've found the information abo
  24. I've had a box of 20 or so IIcx logic boards in the attic for a decade or more. I got the batteries out of them early on, so I never had a battery explosions, but I've been contemplating the damage leaking capacitors will do over time, and thinking I really need to get the box down and pull all the caps. So, I'm in the process of doing that now. It's a slowish process. I don't have time to actually test and "repair" each board, but I want to halt any damage. After I pull the caps, I'll thoroughly clean the boards. Now, here's the question: Is there any particularly vulnerable
  25. I recently acquired a working, but neglected Quadra 840AV. It came with 3 hard drives installed, an original CD-ROM drive, and with a 64 MB of RAM. It clearly needed a total recap of a motherboard and a good cleanup, which I did. Then I tested the machine, and I found out that a CD-ROM drive wasn't detected, even that it was connected properly. I figured out that it must be the drive that failed. Then I cracked open the Sony CDU561-25 drive, and to my surprise, I found capacitors that have leaked and corroded the PCB. The damage was quite bad, but fixable. There was a group that leaked, a
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