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Found 11 results

  1. Has anyone tried replacing the two metal can electrolytic surface mount capacitors on the IIci cache card with tantalum equivalents?
  2. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can
  3. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  4. Dear Members Recently I noticed my Quadra 950 not responding correctly to power ups, it was somewhat intermittent - the PSU appears to work as expected however. I took it apart and pulled the logic board out and noticed that a tantalum capacitor had burned up, it had some white powdery substance on top and appeared cracked in half. I carefully cleaned the area in and around the cap and while doing so it literally fell apart. The pad came loose either before or during cleanup but continuity is good — for now I applied a drop of solder until someone here can guide me on which capacit
  5. I finished recapping the comms board in my LW Pro 630 and now it is working once again! I still need to replace the caps on the DC controller board but at least it is working now that the communication board is resurrected. As soon as my next shipment from DigiKey comes in, I'll get the two caps on DC controller swapped out and she should be like a new printer. I have connected the MiniDin-8 to my Apple IIgs, and the ethertalk to the network. I configured ethertalk to my Raspberry Pi running A2SERVER and then shared it via CUPS to all of the modern computers in the house. The compu
  6. Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was pr
  7. Does the Beige Power Macintosh G3 often need to be recapped? I'll be receiving one soon and I want to know if I should prepare to recap it. I haven't seen many reports of them needing to be recapped, but I just wanted to make sure if it's a common problem or not. Thanks!
  8. Hi I just need a second opinion and potentially a little help locating a part. I am taking apart an iMac G3, cleaning and inspecting after I found a compromised battery. While going through the process I discovered that the largest capacitor on the Power Supply Board, Ver. 2 appears bulged to the touch and visually. Now, I did try to locate this part and it appears available in bulk which I don't want, I only need one but I was thrown off by the 400wv designation. What does wv mean? Could someone confirm if this is indeed a bulged cap and if you think it is, where can I find one?
  9. I was reading about the dangers of not replacing PSU capacitors on PowerBook duos, and today I get my one chance to go by capacitors so I need schematics for the 210
  10. I've recently gotten my hands on an old SE/30 that was stored quite well for the last few decades. I booted the machine up 2 years ago, and at the time it worked like a charm. When I went to start it up recently it displayed a typical Simasima (Horizontal lines, no boot) symptoms. I've done the following things: - Replaced the PRAM battery (it was totally dead) - Cleaned board thouroughly (although have not given it a full bath) - Replaced capacitors: C1, C3, C4, C5, C7, C8, C9, C10, C12, C13 (with 47µF, 16v, tantalum) and C6 (with 1µF 50V, electrolytic). I did not replace C11 or C2 (axi
  11. I'm new to this forum, if I do anything outside the rules let me know and I will correct my postings as appropriate. I recently acquired an SE/30 with 8mb ram and 80mb hard drive. It is in decent physical condition, and even included an ethernet networking card. ]'> Gentleman shipped it to me, I unpacked it, plugged it in, and used it for 5 minutes. It ran great and the display was bright and sharp. Audio was fairly quiet but working (its max was about the same as my SE FDHD's mid level I suppose) I then proceed to open up the case to put in a new battery. Luckily the origin
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