Jump to content

jjclay

6502
  • Content Count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jjclay

  1. Count me in too please. Would be nice to have more than 8Mb in my IIfx...
  2. Another method of freeing up the grease was mentioned here: https://macgui.com/news/article.php?t=431 ...heat it up in an oven to soften the old grease. Also try some WD-40 which you've probably got around the house. I also keep some Xylene on hand, which works wonders (though it is nasty stuff, so you might want to wear a mask) Where can I find this Sony test app? JD
  3. Hi Joe. I'm keen to get some IIfx 64-pin SIMMs for my IIfx, if and when these may become available. Sign me up
  4. Hi Will. You mentioned the previous owner had connected it to 240v instead of 120v, and that had blown the fuse. I think it likely that some other component has been fried before the fuse went. I checked the failure mode of X2 and my money is now on that: When a Class-X capacitor, also referred to as an "across the line capacitor"—the capacitor placed between line and neutral—fails because of an overvoltage event, it is likely to fail short. This failure, in turn, would cause an overcurrent protective device, like a fuse or circuit breaker, to open. Ref: https://www.allaboutci
  5. Hi Will Bilbit is spot on - regardless of AB variant designation, your Mac Plus AB needs to say "International" for it to be able to be converted between 120v and 240v (see first pic below). My 120v Mac Plus (which was made in California!) does say International on the AB, and FWIW the AB model number is also 630-0102 (with no letter designation after it - there were many) and alternate part number on other side of AB is 820-0107-D (yours probably says 820-0082-E). Mine was made by Capetronic (Taiwan) during 40th week of 1988, a couple of years after your 1986 board. I've attached a
  6. Hi Will. Just taken delivery of a Mac Plus 120v here in the UK, and plan to convert it to 240v (the “International” ABs we’re designed to support both 120v and 240v, by simply changing some wire links and a few other components). Can you tell us which specific model of AB you have? There were at least 4 designs. With regards your fuse blowing, I’d suggest you start by checking the “safety capacitors”. These are designed to blow open, but the Y caps connect line and neutral to earth, and if these are bad it can trip the RCD (earth leakage device connected to your mains fuse board).
  7. Now that would be cool (and is a potential fresh batch of colour ribbons an incentive?) My boys think “laser printers” when they want to print. Would be great to show them how it used to be done (with lots of noise and time!)...I have an old ImageWriter II on my “get it working” project list I’ll have to take a look at.
  8. Hi JDW I'm sure it'll ship fine at this end, and will mark it appropriately so it travels as reliably as possible. Looks like I'd bought the last two from this ebay reseller in the UK - see listing here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372940190399. Yes, they buy a big 1kg tin and part it out into smaller tins. There is another selling doing the same but he's asking £10/tin instead of £4: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Em-30l-Grease-for-audio-equipment-UK-Seller-100-Genuine/192930439743?hash=item2ceb8ce23f:g:swgAAOSwMmhedf1F, and I think he's just about f
  9. Good luck with the deliveries! I still seem to be getting stuff delivered from the US, mainland Europe and China OK - but a card from the in-laws in Australia was 2 months late (yes I'm an Aussie, just in 'Europe' - or not as Brexit suggest...). Australia Post & many other postal/delivery companies often hitch a ride on regular passenger flights and with almost all of those grounded, so has a lot of mail. JDW I've just ordered a small tin of EM-30L off a UK seller - was only £4. I'll pick another one up for you and test the postal services in your direction! PM me for details s
  10. Hi JDW I ordered a couple of gears off the Italian guy in your first link, and when they arrived last year I was pleasantly surprised with them. Having finally got around to my Mac Plus repairathon a week ago (some of which I filmed and inspired by you might put a video or two together), I got around to using one of the two replacement gears on an 800k Sony floppy drive whose gears had shredded in the typical way. My observations are: - the gears look high quality - being moulded there are no 3d printed lines etc. - don't know how the mound was obtained, but the gears they
  11. If you can see the SCSI2SD volumes, it is more likely to be a software issue. Do different SCSI2SD volumes have different System folders you can use (e.g. use the application "System Picker" to select the volume and specific system folder to boot from...). On my SCSI2SD I have different volumes with different System versions, and I can swap between them.
  12. Finally getting around to sorting through my little Mac collection, and breaking out the IPA, new caps and soldering iron !

  13. I’ve used this approach in the past too, and you’re right for a couple of quick files it works well. For larger files I used SCSI2SD but am also experimenting with a LocalTalk bridge - was aiming to keep my archives on my Synology NAS, which is great to access from Mac OS X machines, but not classic systems. For that I have a G4 Power Mac or my trusty Pismo PowerBook acting as my Classic & Mac OS X “bridge” (i.e. firing up Classic environment as needed). Also experimenting with a Farallon EtherTalk bridge, which I’ve had some success with but really need to get my versions of A
  14. Thanks for posting this. I have an old colour pivot display but no cable, and can’t find an OEM cable at a reasonable cost so will break out the soldering iron and try to make one. Has anyone else followed the above wiring diagram and achieved success?
  15. I guess it's lockdown boredom or something - that and I've been trying to boot a vintage Mac Plus with external drives (which it does with a Zip100 SCSI and recent enough ROMs). With a spare Zip 100 USB drive kicking about, I wondered if I'd still be able to read & modify my bootable Zip 100 System 6.0.8 disk on my Power Macintosh 5,1 (2010 vintage) running OS X 10.13.6 High Sierra. To my utter shock, it mounted flawlessly first time. Even dragging the Zip to the trash to eject, and auto re-mounting works. Unfortunately, it is read-only (it's a MacOS Standard format
  16. Hello! Am new to this forum but want to offer my experience with a couple of Mac Pluses and my SCSI2SD v5.0b - bottom line is that both boot absolutely fine from the SCSI2SD into a System 6.0.8 partition of 120Mb that I'd created using the cracked version of Apple HD Setup (the one that can be used with non-Apple disks). The Mac Plus systems boot up from the SCSI2SD in literally 10 seconds! As already covered above, I initially had a few problems which I thought it'd be useful to summarise the solution here: 1) SCSI2SD plugged in but not being recognised (e.g. by SCSI Probe).
  17. Thanks folks. Righto, on that basis my next priority is going to be a few AB recaps. I'll wait on the PSU for my SE/30 as voltage under HD load is testing out OK (for now!) but will get to this eventually too. Good to know its not just a dry joint but likely died out and less functional capacitors...
  18. I have the same issue on a Mac SE/30, and in a similar situation to you (logic board recapped and AOK, but yet to fully tackle the analogue board and PSU). I have reflowed a few suspect dry joints, but this didn't improve the picture. Interestingly, if I leave the Mac on for a few hours (after which it has heated up...) the problem goes away. My current hypothesis is that its a dodgy solder joint which improves with thermal expansion of joints - but I'm going to fully recap the AB anyway... Anyone else have any ideas for a "quick fix"?
  19. Wow - dedication indeed! How are you getting on? I ask, because I took my Classic out of storage yesterday to recap the board, only to discover a similar scene since I accidentally left the Maxell time bomb on the board (my rule, which I must have missed, is to ALWAYS remove the PRAM battery from an old Mac...). Have pics and will share once image upload is working again on the forum. Going to drill out and re-tin the via, correct any missing traces I find, recap, and cross fingers. Don't have high hopes of fixing mine, but will give it a try. If it doesn't work I like the idea of ripping the
×
×
  • Create New...