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CharlesT

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About CharlesT

  • Birthday 07/17/1954

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    Seattle area

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  1. Just so this doesn't languish forever with no resolution... Per above recommendations, on both units, I replaced the optocouplers and the TDA devices. On the unit that I blew by not connecting the HV lead to the CRT, this had no efect, something else is at issue. I checked all the diodes and transistors that I could and they all seem to check out fine. So I'm at a standstill on that unit, clearly something else blew, no idea where to go next. However, on the unit in which I stupidly reversed the replacement elctrolytics, I also replaced the optocouplers and TD devices (
  2. Here's an Ebay listing for the TDA4605s. https://www.ebay.com/itm/291471780717 I just received an order from them. It seems less likely these would be at fault in your case since a bad one would most likely result in your supply not switching at all, meaning no output.
  3. Well, I might be closer to 'ending' up somewhere, closing in on 70. Thanks for the words of encouragement. I've got a set of the TDAs on order, will probably get some optocouplers while I'm at it. I'm gonna treat this as a learning experience, don't really 'need' the LC. It's just that it's the only thing I have with the beautiful Trinitron in it, which I just hated to see going to a landfill. I saw the thread where Uniserver mentioned Bomarc had these schematics at one point, too bad that source is gone. I've been looking at whatever Sony 14" monitor schematics I can find thinkin
  4. Thanks techKnight. I actually did check the HOT after the first failure and it seems to be OK, obviously under no load. The badness must have reached farther back so that the switched mode supply no longer does any switching. That's about all I know. After two bonehead moves on these guys I'm about ready to throw my cards on the table. I've brought up a 2GS monitor from the dead and fixed a couple of mac plus analog boards so thought this couldn't be THAT hard. But I had schematics for those others, and the 575 board is at least three times the complexity if not more. My background
  5. Hello all I have now managed to "brick" two analog boards in the process of doing recaps. I've had good luck with all my other recaps but these seem jinxed. The first came up properly (logic board and hard drive) but I had forgotten to connect the high tension led to the CRT. This bodged something and has prevented it from coming up since then (won't even turn on, so assume it's in a safety shutdown mode) The second, the above's replacement, was working fine but "needed" recap so that was done, but lot's of time passed between removing the old caps, then installing the
  6. Is anyone familiar with the bootloading process following reset? The 68000 data sheet shows going to address 0 following reset, which is RAM, but ROM, which presumably is where the loader resides, starts at 0x40,000. And Kai, most of the 68K signals are available on the PDS slot, so populating the desired pin sockets with a hand full of square post pins should provide a good connection point for the LSA pods.
  7. Have you been able to get the Rominator to work yet? I have one in my SE/30 as well. It's a common problem with the Rominator, not sure if it's board thickness or some other alignment issue, but very likely you'll have to play with the positioning of the thing in the rom socket. At least that's what I had to do with mine and others had to do so as well. Big Mess mentions it on his website. I thought he might have had it fixed in the newer versions since he mentions going to a thicker PCB, but maybe not. In any case, I can 'fix' mine either by placing small strips of card board in t
  8. Hi, I have both V5 and V6 versions of SCSI2sd in various systems. I have never had any issues with the V5, but the V6 has always been very sensitive to environmental conditions, specifically ribbon cable condition and noise from the power supply. With those conditions the symptoms were all over the place, including bus errors and just hanging. I did a lot of troubleshooting on my own and also worked with Michael (the designer in Australia) on trying to resolve the issues. With some fixes he did to my board (mine was an early version) things improved somewhat, but never resolved to reliable ope
  9. Hi, not such a long shot after all. Still have all the parts and would be happy to send them your way for shipping costs. No idea what the state of the screen is since I haven't turned it on for many years, but the recapping was done by Charles in Michigan before he went off the rails. All the caps on the display were replaced by him. Let me know what you'd like to do and I'll look at getting the stuff packaged and a shipping estimate.
  10. Have a look at my efforts in that direction. Might help in your search, although it's been a couple years.
  11. I just recently fixed one of these, different symptoms than yours. I replaced all the electrolytics on both the main board and neck board. Did not fix the problem. Problem turned out to be bad solder joints on the flyback. Redid all those and it was mostly working. The other problem turned out to be dirty contacts on the adjustment pots. Gave those some vigorous back and forth action and it came right in. Looks great with the new caps as well. The main board on that monitor is prone to solder joint issues.
  12. Totally agree with Compgeke. I'm using a 7600 for exactly that purpose. It ties into the ethernet network and using the serial ports and Apple's internet bridge s/w ties serial appletalk to that network. Plus you have both SCSI ports and can put in an IDE card for IDE drives. Plus it's easy to add a G3 card and also run os 9.2.2 with a little help. All het beste
  13. This sounds very similar to a problem I had with an LC575 and both comm slot and pds ethernet cards. The wouldn't be recognized by the Faralon software and caused booting problems. Problem turned out to be the power supply going weak. Re-capped that and everything works. The weak supply took longer than it should have to come within spec with the added load preventing the cards from being properly initialized during the power up process. If you haven't yet re-capped your power supply, could be the problem.
  14. Just wanted to close this off. I managed to find a replacement cable for the LG panel, as well as a "new" correct LG Phillips panel, both right here in the US, in Texas. Installed both and that Pismo is bright eyed and bushy tailed again. I now feel like I can replace a Pismo panel in probably 15 minutes or less, pretty simple, no hidden tricky parts. Cable was $12 and included a set of hinges, the panel was $36. Not too bad.
  15. I used the WD-40 on a Pismo and it worked a treat! Smells for a day or two but really perks it up nicely.
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