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mdanh2002

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    http://www.toughdev.com/

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  1. See my Retro68 + CodeLite + pce/macplus set up here http://www.toughdev.com/content/2018/12/developing-68k-mac-apps-with-codelite-ide-retro68-and-pce-macplus-emulator/ The combination form a very good development environment for 68k Mac apps. Mac apps can be run on various emulators on different Macintosh system software just by changing the CodeLite project configuration dropdown. Autocomplete is supported as well. CodeLite can also be configured to tail the serial port output file and this can used for debugging purposes.
  2. Did you ever find the driver for this card? I also have the same card and couldn't find the driver. See my thread here https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/54757-driver-for-dove-fastnet-se-nic/
  3. Hi, I have a Macintosh SE with a Dove FastNET SE NIC card installed but couldn't find the driver for it anywhere. This is what I've gathered about this card: 1. The card was manufactured by Dove Computer Corporation (https://fccid.io/HY7) whose main business is network/telecommunication equipments 2. The card belongs to a family of similar NIC for 68k Macintoshes. The FastNet SEn is for the Mac SE whereas the FastNet SE/30s is for the SE/30. See details here https://archive.org/stream/TNM_Ethernet_connectivity_products_Fast_Net_-_Dov_20171214_0072/TNM_Ethernet_con
  4. The 190cs only has this problem when it boots from the hard drive. It does not exhibit the issues when booting from the floppy disk. And the problem always happens shortly after the "Welcome to Macintosh" text is displayed (backlight is turned off, making it very hard to see the screen). Something I observed today is that, if the problem happens, a PRAM reset (Command-Option-P-R) will restore the backlight to working condition again on the 190cs. I will take it apart this weekend and check again for leaky caps and see what I can find. For the 165, its backlight will always turn off around
  5. It could be caps on the 165. However I am reluctant to open it, since the cable between the LCD and the motherboard is 'almost' broken and I do not want to risk ruining it. For the 190cs, I doubt so. I checked the inverter board and it looks very clean, almost like the day it left the factory. I measured most caps on the LCD boards using an ESR meter and they seem to be fine. I also swapped the inverter board with another Powerbook 5300cs that I have whose LCD is cracked, and the same symptoms persisted. The symptoms did not happen when the swapped inverter board was on the other Powerboo
  6. Hi, I have a Powerbook 190cs and a Powerbook 165 that are having weird backlight issues. On both laptops, upon power on, the backlight will lit up for a while (5-10 seconds), then turns off. With this, I can still use the 165 since the screen is B&W, whereas the 190cs with color screen is totally unusable without the backlight. However, strangely on the 190cs, if I do not power it on for around 2-3 days, the LCD backlight will work fine for around 2-3 hours once it is turned on before the problem will happen again. Once the problem happens on the 190cs, I have to let it rest for a while be
  7. I tried shimming with no effects. I realize that if it's going to work, just a standard socket insertion would do and no additional press/shimming is required on the module. If it's not going to work, shimming isn't going to help either. Anyway the board failed on me again today (horizontal stripes on the screen with chime of death). This happened for both the stock and the BMOW ROMs. My suspicion now falls on the power supply. I just ordered another fully working Macintosh SE from eBay today. When it arrives in a few weeks' time, I will swap the motherboards and see if it's indeed a mothe
  8. I still think it's got to do with the RAM modules, or the circuits surrounding them. I did run a thorough test on all of the 16MB SIMMs using the SIMCHECK II RAM tester, and all tested good, which is expected since they are new. I suspect one or more of the 74F253 multiplexers are dying and producing marginal outputs not tolerated by the Rominator II. When I am free I will use my oscilloscope to examine the voltage levels at their output pins to see what's going on. Unfortunately the SE/30 motherboard and its CRT are not convenient to mess with. The logic board cable is very short, making
  9. The SE/30 works fine again with the stock ROM after a second wash of the logic board. I leave it running for the whole day today with no weird behaviour observed. Strangely it still doesn't work with BMOW Mac-rominator II (chime of death upon power on). I will have to investigate this on another day, after I get another SE/30 and see whether the new machine will work with the custom ROM. Maybe some marginal voltage or logic levels that are within the tolerance of the stock ROM, but not with the Rominator II.
  10. The shrinking display is a different story - I will check the analog board on another day. The 6 or 7 socketed chips above the 8 RAM slots get hot together, so the shorts must be something common to all of them. I have tried to power the on with each individual chip connected and others removed, and yes, each chip individually will get hot. I do not think that the traces on the logic board are broken because if they are, the machine would not work at all. I did manage to install a full System 7.1 with tons on software on this machine before this happens. In my case the ICs get very ho
  11. Hi, I recapped 2 SE/30 around 2 months ago. One of them still works fine, while the other has developed some weird problems. First, I notice that during operation, the PAL and video chips above the 8 SIMM memory slots are very hot, to the point of burning my hands. Secondly, the machine works fine with the original Apple ROM but not with the Macintosh Rominator II ROM (by BMOW) - it would show various stripe patterns or play the chime of death upon boot up. Finally, if left running for a while (30-60 mins) then the machine would no longer boot up with either ROM (chime of death is played).
  12. I bought myself an SMD rework station 3 months ago but so far only practiced to use it on an old VCR circuit board trying to remove some ICs. Did not get the results that I wanted and burned several nearby SMD components as well. So i guess using it on the SE/30 motherboard to replace the RAM socket is not for me. I am happy with using tape to secure the RAM - who's going to see it once the case is put back During the repair process, I also checked through the commented ROM source code listing for the Macintosh Plus (not SE/30, but both should share similar ROM routines) here http://www.b
  13. My RAM sockets were still pretty solid when I first touched the board. I think the sockets would have remain so had I been more careful in removing the RAM. Btw, the corners of the screen did get rounded off once the Mac found a boot disk and started to boot from it. The machine also comes with a SE/30 PDS Ethernet Card, which still works well. Unfortunately, download speed (tested with Fetch and MacTCP on System 7.1) is only around 30 KB/s at its best, despite the card being a 10Mbps card ...
  14. I got it working. Once I discovered some corrosions beneath the ROM slot, I washed the board a second time using white vinegar and let it dry for two days. Upon the next boot up, I immediately saw the familiar question mark on the screen asking for the boot disk! Yes, the motherboard, if working properly, is supposed to boot all the way until it asks for boot disk, even with no keyboard/mouse/floppy/hard drive attached. The machine now has System 7.1 installed using Amigakit SCSI2SD module, with the PDS ethernet card and everything (including file transferring via FTP) works perfectly fine. Au
  15. I just tried, no difference with the floppy drive and SCSI hard drive attached. I think it does not get passed the memory test. Also the corners do not get rounded off after a while - they are perfectly square. Any other ideas?
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