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  1. I had asked a couple questions in a previous thread about a SE/30 that I had picked up, but I don't want to totally hijack someone else's thread, so I'll hijack my own When I turned the SE/30 on, this is the screen that greeted me: http://imgur.com/ZK6m2Lh On the SE, the checkerboards were bigger, and seemingly indicative of a RAM problem, that mostly went away with new RAM, until it didn't. On the SE/30, is this a RAM or cap issue? I'm assuming, based on the other thread, that the thing will need to be recapped anyway even if that's not this issue, but if it is, then no more diagno
  2. To piggyback on this thread as opposed to creating a new one, how does one identify the original caps? I picked up an SE/30, pulled the battery, but I'm not sure what to look for as far as caps. none appear bulging or leaking, but I don't know if it's been recapped or not. My inclination is that it has not since (I would think) there's not really much in the way of solder on the back of the board that doesn't look like it was machine soldered. If that makes sense. Top of board: http://imgur.com/nLAldEh Bottom of board: http://imgur.com/7GW4eqU
  3. Interesting! The lady said that one of them started on fire, I wonder if this was the one, lol
  4. The network card seems like a pretty standard bonus, as far as these kinds of posts go any idea what the blue connector could be? I'm going to start taking these apart in the next few days, but an idea of what to look for is always appreciated.
  5. Been a while since I've posted, but I've been buying some stuff locally. Picked up another car load of stuff from Craigslist, with some interesting stuff. I'll be adding more pics over the next few days, but this was just my quick and dirty research photos. Some of the stuff is pretty well used, hoping that most of it works: http://imgur.com/a/79HP0 I'm particularly interested in the blue connector coming from one of the 512s, and what I believe to be the Lisa mouse.
  6. Ah, ok. I'll get 2.1 on there then! It's an SEFD, with 4 MB, so I'm trying to keep things pretty minimal if I can.
  7. Using 2.0.6? I switch to Class C, but I don't see a way to switch the IP range at the top. If I manually set a 10.x IP address, it still tries to pull in a 192.x address. I thought I read that 2.1 isn't usable on systems with less than 8 MB RAM, so I'm trying to stick to 2.0.6. Unless I'm misreading that.
  8. I've been reading about this for days, but I can't seem to find anywhere that has asked this question : can I set up MacTCP 2.0.6 to use a 10.0.0.xxx IP address? Worst case scenario, I could flip my whole network over to 192.168.0.xxx, but I'd rather not if I could avoid it. If this HAS been asked and answered, I apologize profusely and hope that someone can post a link that I can peruse. Thanks in advance!
  9. That makes total sense. I'll check it out tomorrow and report back, but I'm sure that's it. I'm not sure if it has a terminator, but it is powered on its own if that makes a difference. I'm still fuzzy on power termination.
  10. Hi all, I acquired another SE, an FDHD this time. I pulled the HDD out because it wasn't booting anymore, installed a new drive and system 7.1 from a dead LCII I had, and it runs like a dream now. My problem, such as it is, comes from trying to hook the bad drive up to an external enclosure to see if I can pull some data off of it. I'm using the guts of an Apple External Hard Drive (M2115) (http://appletothecore.me/files/m2115_external_drive.php), and whenever I turn the thing on it freezes my SE. I can't boot into the internal drive, even after setting it to be the startup disk in co
  11. Seconded, I've had great success cleaning off old Macs using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser and water.
  12. I found the Battery Reset 2.0 app here: https://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/3653/apple-powerbook-g3-series-battery-reset-updater
  13. I am able to charge both batteries in the left bay, now, after running the Battery Reset app. Even fully charged they don't show up in Control Strip in the right bay, it just says that the bay is empty. Is there a way to test if the PRAM battery is bad, outside of date/time not persisting? With no battery, even after being plugged in for a long time, removing the power cord shuts the computer off. Everything is pointing to a bad PRAM battery. Can those be recharged, or is it hosed?
  14. I do not, but I will soon. Thanks! I think the batteries themselves are alright as I've gotten both of them to charge at some point in the past few days.
  15. The weirdness continues: I picked up another a Wallstreet for parts, from CL, that had what I thought was a good battery. I thought it was good because when I popped it into the left bay, the lights came on on the battery itself. I left the machine on for a couple minutes, then shut it down. This was yesterday. I came back today, and the battery is dead. If I put a battery into the left bay, it shows up on the menu bar now (which it wasn't initially). When I put the same battery into the left bay nothing shows up in the bay in control strip. But removable media drives operate proper
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