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  1. It can't be demand from AROS users, though G4s are the machines of choice for that OS. There is a company buying G4 machines to keep very very expensive Heidelberg press equipment going, but I don't think the PB G4's one of them.
  2. haemoglobin reached me via PM, and I can confirm that I swapped the whole top successfully
  3. Unsurprisingly, it worked perfectly. So I now have a perfectly working greyscale 180!
  4. Thanks! Thought it would be something like that. I shall let folks know how it goes. I'll definitely also be taking the mono 180's memory board across, as it has the full 14 MB. The colour one has much less.
  5. I've got two 180s here: a greyscale with nice steady display but a busted disk and some internal support damage. It boots nicely from floppy, but the old 120MB disk made siren noises. Replacing the HD with an 80 MB from a 170 wasn't recognized in Apple HD SC Setup (but then, I don't hear any spin up noises from that one, either …) a 180c that makes all of the right booting noises from its 120 MB drive, but the screen only gives backlight and the whole upper screen assembly/hinge is coming apart. Can I take the lower case of the 180c (with logic board, hard drive, floppy, etc) and mate it wi
  6. Is that battery tray your own design, Westinghouse? It looks very neat. Can you share it, please?
  7. ah, sorry; got what you meant. Looks like a Type A, and that's what my 140 is now powered with. Thanks!
  8. There are many DC connector sizes, including: Type A: 5.5 mm OD, 2.1 mm ID Type A: 5.5 mm OD, 2.5 mm ID Type B: 6.0 mm OD, 2.1 mm ID Type B: 6.0 mm OD, 2.5 mm ID Type C: 3.8 mm OD, 1.4 mm ID Type D: 6.3 mm OD, 3.1 mm ID Type E: 3.4 mm OD, 1.3 mm ID so I'm not sure what you mean by "the usual one". With modern NiMH cells, you could get pretty close to the original capacity with five (ish) AAs. I don't think I'd want to risk LiPo, as they have very special charging needs
  9. Just as a summary to all this, I've given up on this Classic. There's a trace corroded through on the logic board that is stopping all of the RAM appearing. A complete swap of the memory daughter card made no difference. The display board caps are shot, too. Although the display is solid, it starts to stink as it warms up. I've decided to keep the replacement display caps for the near-pristine Classic II I scored from a friend. I just recapped its logic board, upped the RAM and replaced the battery, and it runs really well. I'm glad the Classic II works with the BMOW Floppy Emu, as now I h
  10. What size of barrel connector does the PB use? I have a couple (a 140, a 170) with no power supplies. No batteries, either, and it doesn't look too hard a shape to 3D print for new cells and sensors Nice work on the replacement circuit!
  11. Great! I got the floppy working with a $2 (thanks, Above All Surplus!) drive cleaning kit.
  12. Thanks, all. I'll source the replacement big caps for the analogue board today. While I did clean the SIMM connections, I don't have any other machines to test 30 pin SIMMs with. Two and 8 chip SIMMs are rarer than hen's teeth around here; I can get any number of 3 or 9 chip ones. The 70 ns ones I tried (and returned) gave me the split Sad Mac as shown above. Maybe I'd be better off with a whole new daughtercard. Will definitely clean the floppy drive, once I work out how.
  13. I picked up a Macintosh Classic at an electronic waste roundup the other week. Despite the case being badly discoloured and giving a RAM-related Sad Mac on boot, I could tell that the Quantum HD was still spinning and the display is really sharp. The machine has its problems, and I'm wondering if it's worth refurbing. Your advice/opinions on the following are welcomed: Capacitors — I recapped the logic board and replaced the PRAM battery. The logic board caps had all leaked, and cleaning up the mess was not fun. The battery, though dead, hadn't leaked. The Fishy Smell — The analogue bo
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