Jump to content

Johnnya101

68020
  • Content Count

    2130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Johnnya101

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Moultonborough, NH
  • Interests
    Model Ts, macs, radios, film, and more!

Recent Profile Visitors

1602 profile views
  1. SE/30 is the ultimate compact. Classic II is a toned down SE/30, but above any other compact. The one to have is the SE/30, and if you can't afford one, the Classic II is good. The Classic IIs suffer from the odd Classic issues though, and have many things that tend to burn out compared to the SE series. Plus awful caps and small logic boards.
  2. Yup, definitely replace that PSU! There's a kit for sale to upgrade it to a modern one. Look around and you'll find it.
  3. Could always grab a good logic board for like $20, I think LaPorta had one for sale recently?
  4. This forums uploading tool sucks. Upload the image to imgur, copy the direct link of the image, insert as a url.
  5. If your first SE video still shimmers, could be that PSU. That happened on mine, they are all starting to go [the caps].
  6. Pretty sure drakware is other way around too
  7. No difference functionality wise, however the more correct keyboard is the "Apple Keyboard". Has the big border around the keys, has the lines on the sides and stuff. The extendeds are nice and usually cheap, date wise the original extended is the more correct one but it really doesnt matter, the extended I and II both look pretty much the same. The 7200 came with a later style keyboard, I forget the name though, but you will know it when you see it. Rounded off and beige.. The correct mouse for the SE and II is the tombstone angular mouse. There are a few different choices for ad
  8. Yeah, I have been thinking of getting rubber stuff printed again.
  9. The drip is just from the glue getting hot and old and dripping down (I would think and hope). Feel the drip mark. If its a little sticky its just glue.
  10. I would highly recommend getting all three boards recapped. Analog, PSU, and logic. Then you'll be set for decades. Let it sit turned off and unplugged for an hour, and then discharge it. It should have a bleeder installed. You might see a spark but probably not. After that, remove the cap and you can continue on taking it apart. Make sure to lube the floppy drive while it's out, and you should probably replace the eject gear.
  11. I have a couple of dead Connors and a working Quantum Go Drive, but I'd like to sell them with at least one of my parts powerbooks. An SCSI2SD is a much better choice. I have one in my 140. Fast. I made a 3d printed bracket too.
  12. No Jinnai, you're correct. Well, really the cap is there because without it the anode wire itself would be arcing everywhere. You NEED the cap to stay "glued" down. That's what the red you usually see in that area is. Glue. You also don't want any nicks damaging the cap. So it sounds like you should reglue the cap somehow. Or, like one of my junk SEs had, duck tape it.
  13. Desk lamp too close is my guess.
  14. Looks like you used a bunch of solder on those caps. You sure the blobs of solder aren't touching other traces or ics? I can't really tell from the photos.
×
×
  • Create New...