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About goncalo

  • Birthday 04/09/1975

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    [1989-01] Macintosh SE/30 68030 16 MHz
    [1999-10] Macintosh Classic 68000 8 MHz
    [1992-10] Macintosh Powerbook Duo 230 68030 33 MHz
    [1992-10] Macintosh Powerbook 160 68030 25 MHz
    [1998-08] iMac G3 TL 233 MHz Rev. A (2x)
    [1998-10] iMac G3 TL 233 MHz Rev. B
    [1999-01] PowerMac G3 PowerPC G3 300MHz (PowerMac1,1)
    [1999-10] iMac G3 SL 350 MHz Blueberry (iMac2,1)
    [2000-02] PowerBook G3 400MHz (PowerBook3,1/Pismo)
    [2000-07] iMac G3 SL 450 MHz Indigo (iMac2,2)
    [2000-07] PowerMac G4 PowerPC G4 Dual 450MHz (PowerMac3,3)
    [2001-07] PowerMac G4 PowerPC G4 733MHz (PowerMac3,5)
    [2002-01] iMac G4 800 MHz 15” (iMac4,2) (2x)
    [2003-01] PowerBook G4 12” 867 MHz (PowerBook6,1)
    [2003-09] PowerBook G4 12” 1 GHz (PowerBook6,2)
    [2004-08] iMac G5 1,8 MHz 17” (iMac8,1)

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  1. Hi Jason. Is everything ok? It's been a while since your last youtube video. Hope everything is Ok!
  2. Hi. This is a long haul project, it is on standby at the moment, sorry ;-)
  3. So, just to clear things up. There where no "liquid crystals pouring out", it was the adhesive pouring out. And while thinking about the aforementioned crack, I wonder if is there a relation between the angle of the polarizer and the angle of the crack on the film. That could mean this panel uses a 90-degree polarizer since the crack is at about 95/100 degrees.
  4. I've bought a "Polarizer Film Angle Tester" from aliexpress (~10€) - I'm hoping it will help me solve the angle question regarding this PowerBook and many other screens. But alas, this project is on hold right now - this retrocomputing stuff is a slow process for me As for prices, I've found that a 17" sheet is about 10€. But I've recently noticed they are getting more expensive..
  5. I'm so relieved having discovered my damaged LCDs can be fixed! I've noticed several sellers of polarizer film mention degree angles - does anyone know the angle for the MB 1xxs? Has anyone bought and applied this polarizer film? SHARP LM 64P58 assembly removed from the backlight unit: The polarizer film peeled off: LCD with the adhesive still on: Adhesive peeled off and flat blade: Finished LCD unit:
  6. Ok, I just noticed this subject was discussed in a more recent thread: That's Google fault! I just got here from a google search - don't judge me
  7. EDIT 1: Thanks, PB145B! Good news everyone! So I had this damaged PowerBook 160 LCD lying around and decided to investigate following PB145B suggestion. I removed it from the reflector bed and looking at its transparency, the outlook was even worse than previously thought. Apart from the apparent surface crack and bubbles lying around, I could see cracks on the glass itself. Having nothing to lose on this unit I started to peel off the polarizing film. I must warn you, the adhesive smell is pretty intense.
  8. I’m having this issue of “lcd rot” in many systems. Symptoms vary - from cracked panels to fungi-like patterns first it was a Digital HiNote 486 laptop - it was carefully stored in a horizontal shelf without any other weight on top - the screen cracked al liquid cristals came pouring out. Some compaq LTEs are also turning up with strange patterns. They have had no physical stress placed upon, but all of the sudden the lcds start to rot. Two PowerBook 160 have also developed cracks and air bubbles within the lcd layers. This is a serious concern to those that collect and enj
  9. What a coincidence! I was given a "generic" usb floppy drive just today, but my problem was the opposite - I just couldn't make it to work on a windows 10 pc (no drivers/device not recognized... the usual windowy party). As soon as I connected it to the G3 keyboard (what can I say, it was closer...) I was greeted with the low power warning. II plugged it to the iMac USB port and it worked like a charm
  10. So it's a tray-loading (just saw the photos..) I think you should start with the neck board (I can't remember the name) and remove all cables/connectors. You'll find a small plastic 'button' you must press to release the red cable. Then go to the video board (the one you have on its side - where you'll find a lot of connectors!) And eventually the power source board - be patient with the connector near the base of the crt - you can loosen it from the video board side in case you have already removed it.
  11. What I wanted to say is that he might be doing some maintenance and that it will return soon - I hope
  12. Yep, it's down. It happened a while back https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/27972-is-macintosh-garden-down-or-abandoned/?hl=macintosh+garden
  13. Every electrolytic capacitor will eventually need to be replaced (link). But of all seven iMac G3 I own, none needs replacing - maybe in five years time. I have made a thorough capacitor list for the rev. A and B tray-loading - the list is huge! 57 in both analog and video boards and 11 on the logic board You can find easy-to-follow disassembly instructions on the Apple Service Source manuals (link).
  14. I guess the foam that support the center tweeters/magnets (?) is gone, turned to gooey mush. I happened to all my slot-loading iMacs - I had one intact but as soon as I installed 10.4, the startup tune just blew the foam. You can see more here: https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/20369-preserving-imac-g3-speakers-with-flexible-adhesive/
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