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thegarse

6502
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Elk Grove, CA
  • Interests
    Vintage Apple, Arcades, Pinball

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  1. Fixed update: I went on a wild goose chase and it paid off. Traced the pot on the underside of the board testing all resistors. This little dude measured 9Mohms. That can’t be right. Found a reference guide online (which can be wrong btw) that said it should be 1k ohms. Used the rework station, replaced resistor using salvage parts, turned on, winced again, this time I had horizontal adjustment! Wow, what a ride! Thanks to all that helped!
  2. Re-glued the inductor back together, reinstalled and same issue (I didn't expect anything different). PP1 isn't easy to get to so I'd rather set it using a MM once someone is able to provide a solid reading.
  3. Can someone with a CC board tell me what the reading on PP1 is, I have a feeling this is related based on a section in https://powercc.org/640x480/
  4. This may or may not be associated but I noticed this inductor (located at LL2) came off it's glue/base and was very wiggly, it is somewhat close the yoke connector but I have no idea what it is. I'd figure replacing it couldn't hurt but I don't know what it is or what the 95 represents. My transistor tester seems to not read it correctly and I can't seem to find a reference for LL2.
  5. Removed the pot for centering horizontally, it measured appropriately out of circuit. Could a load affect the pot? What components control horiz that I can test?
  6. Hello, I recently performed an unsuccessful recap on the analog board, when I powered on RL54 started to smoke so I turned everything off. Recently I re-checked ESR on all caps, triple checked polarity, replaced the 30 ohm 4w resistor on RL54 (there is some confusion here as the fried resistor I pulled was 30 ohm but I see multiple sites indicate a 330 ohm resistor is used there). Reflowed a few joints, reinstalled board, winced, then powered on. It didn’t fry the resistor this time. But now my horizontal centering pot doesn’t seem to have an effect/change on the horizontal positioning on the
  7. Well, I tried the 330ohm, and it also smoked so I turned it off. I think now I will try to disconnect as many things as I can and add them one at a time. I do have a AV board for a performa 579 so I can poach some parts but because it was a bigger screen a lot of items will not transfer. I'm guessing a short?
  8. Hi, I see RL54 as 30ohm 1w on https://powercc.org/640x480/ otherwise it's listed as 330ohm as stated above. I'm looking to figure out my issue listed here: any thoughts?
  9. Hi all got my resistors in. What would be the best place to start 330ohm or 30ohm? :)
  10. I found one doc that said RL54 should be a 33ohm resistor: https://powercc.org/640x480/ a few others state 330ohm, can someone give me a definitive value? Based on the color code of the original I see it as a 33ohm, I’m not a pro at reading color codes btw. Also will a cooked resistor measure the appropriate ohms?
  11. Hi everyone, I did the painstaking analog video recap on my color classic verified polarity multiple times and thought I was in good shape because the computer booted up without any issues. Today I booted the Mac again and got a bouncy pin cushion shaped image that looked like it was shifted to the right a bit. I scratched my head because it works fine the night before so I took the analog video board out double checked for broken joints, reflowed a few that looked suspect, rechecked the polarity and booted it again, this time I got less video and saw a plume of smoke and immediately I turned
  12. Moved the BW over to the IIc enclosure.
  13. Same orientation of the tubes? Thanks, theoretically I can put this B/W screen in the enclosure for the iic monitor right?
  14. Hi, what are some good options to get a green phosphor to fit in my Plus? The big 4pin on the b/w monitor doesn’t match the green monitor. I’m guessing making my own molex and soldering to the green contact points (leaving the thin cables untouched) thoughts?
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