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Everything posted by techknight

  1. that line is also very dim. should be much brighter than that unless you turned the brightness down, so id look at UE8 too.
  2. Youll still likely encounter cap damage even when NOS, so youll have to recap it for sure. Assuming it hasnt damaged the board already.
  3. it seems dark enough that your CRT might be weak. That is always a possibility.
  4. It is going to take a combination, with the potential of yoke adjustment. you will have to experiment.
  5. Not typically, if you cant change the title, then maybe we can get a moderator to do it. @Gorgonops or @Cory5412 if they wouldnt mind. Anyways we will just continue on from here. Yea, I figured the groundwire was an issue. Hopefully it didnt damage anything. but I bet it did. you may need to replace the vertical output IC, potentially.
  6. That typically cannot happen unless the CRT is not grounded. the CRT has to be grounded. there is usually a ground wire that connects up to one of the screw posts, and then works its way back to the neck PCB. make sure that wire is in-tact, and the solder joint is good on the neck PCB. also make sure all the solder joints are good on the Neck PCB, and the analog board connectors where the neck PCB goes, I typically just reflow them. Chances are though, the damage has already been done, and potentially the yoke now has shorted turns. its really hard to say. It equally could have da
  7. Yikes. I dont even know what to say about this one. but that "pop" was the sound of something getting damaged/blasted. Assuming it wasn't an arc-over in the CRT itself.
  8. Yea, but its not a tuned circuit, at least not the feedback portion of it. It isnt supposed to do that. You can try DeOxit, otherwise you can replace the pot. you would need to match up the specs, and footprint to something modern on Mouser or Digikey.
  9. Then you have glitches in your power rails, or the NMI signal.
  10. Could be a bad potentiometer, developing dead spots.
  11. Could be a multitude of things. One, could be the power supply itself not supplying clean power, or high enough voltages. It can equally be the NMI pullup connection open, or button bad, it could be any of the chips on the logic board, many things unfortunately. Could even be a bad copy of the System Software.
  12. This and many reasons is precisely why im not married, and love being independent.
  13. Oh, that makes it even more fun to figure out. The power supply stage is VERY different than that of the 5120.
  14. Thats a bad PMGR/Hybrid. Very common, and short of that, could be caps/resistors support components in the circuitry between them.
  15. If it shorts, it'll send 6V to 7.5V to all the 5V chips which would fry everything up stream, basically bricking the board. I have seen it. its rare though. The first thing it takes out is the SWIM, and a handful of 74 series logic next to the CPU.
  16. Yea I dont know of any solution for that type of topolgy unfortunately. you can do it all day long if you have Appletalk and some type of ethernet networking whether its over SCSI or Serial, or something. Appletalk over a wifi modem I dont know if its a thing yet, since in the Mac domain, appletalk over serial is localtalk and its a proprietary framing format and not at a standard baud rate either. I think it was SDLC or HDLC style serial. If someone wrote an SDLC/HDLC localtalk stack that ran on the ESP8266, then yea, you could do it, as it would act as an Ethertalk to Localtalk
  17. Dead machine. its the 5.2V regulator.
  18. No it isnt. I was replying to your post. Your Q16 heatsink is blackened from tarnish/corrosion. Not heat. That is not to say that the transistor got hot over the years, but the blackening of the heatsink is due to tarnishing.
  19. Well I wasnt clear on what your expectations are. Its just what I use to synchronize folders on my host machines. For example, if I have an Appleshare volume between a Mac and a Pi or something, I can run FreeFileSync/RealTime sync to sync that share to some other volume, like a mirror. Otherwise I dont understand what you are trying to achieve.
  20. I never encountered this issue so its going to take some extensive electronics knowledge and troubleshooting skills to figure it out. You make sure you ordered the correct replacement diodes?
  21. Doesnt look fried to me. Just blackening on the heatsink plating from corrosion. Thats it.
  22. a Host-only solution would be FreeFileSync or RealTimeSync. Thats what I use.
  23. Well whatever you do, dont send them to a landfill. theres always someone out there that can figure out and fix the analog board.
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