Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Garrett

  1. Did you make sure the jumper was configured properly? There's a jumper for selecting whether additional SIMMs are installed or not on the expansion board.
  2. I actually made a similar meme back on Twitter after the Cybertruck announcement. Anyways, after getting back home I removed the logic board from the SE to look at the battery. It has a Varta battery that appears to be in decent condition, but I can't remove it since it is soldered on. Which is somewhat scary because I don't have a soldering iron (or skills) and this computer probably isn't going to be recapped for a while, since my 1991 Classic is currently being recapped. This is my first time working on a compact Mac other than my Classic, and the logic board i
  3. Recently in a couple posts I found a Macintosh SE on my local Facebook Marketplace. I wasn't going to go for it since I'm already sinking a bit of money into my (superior) 1991 Macintosh Classic, but I wanted to see it go to a good home instead of a landfill or electronics recycler. Last night I ended up shooting the seller a (honestly low-ball) offer to see if she'd bite. This morning she responded. Tonight, a 1988 Macintosh SE followed me home. For $45, I wouldn't say I underpaid for this machine - but it did come with some accessories. First, a carrying case - which
  4. I have no experience with fixing boards, but it looks better than some others I've seen online. The video ROM, crystal, capacitor and ROM card (especially the connector) looks toast, though. As a side note, it seems like every 1 out of 2 (or 3) SE/30s I've seen has an exploded battery inside. It seems like it's not as prevalent as an issue with other models. Maybe the Classic/Classic II is a close follower, but still.
  5. I got the analog board removed from the computer. I tried the alcohol method, and it seemed to work. I was able to get the neck board removed without any problems. The real pain was actually the anode cap on the side of the CRT. It took a good 10-15 minutes for me to get it removed. I hope it goes back in much simpler. Here's more: Thanks to everyone for your input. It is greatly appreciated. And thanks Eric for that video.
  6. I read something on one of the FB groups about a diode (specifically DP6) going bad, which can cause issues you're noticing. It's a MB4 1045 S. Perhaps that diode has gone bad?
  7. Thanks, @erichelgeson. The video helped a lot. When replacing the board, do you feel when the board is completely on?
  8. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, it shouldn't take much force at all to remove the board? I guess I'm not understanding the "keep motion perpendicular to the neck board" part - you just pull straight up on the board, right? Do you need to wiggle back and forth slightly, or can you just pull off? I may try to cut as close to the plastic connector as possible, if needed. Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill? It's just the CRT in this machine is in pretty good condition, so the last thing I want to do is accidentally destroy it.
  9. My main worry is accidentally breaking the nipple on the tube. I just pull straight up on the neck board, correct?
  10. I've heard people mention that you should cut the glue. I even noticed in the service manual for the Classic/C II that it says you need to cut the glue using a craft knife. But, then again, I'm guessing after 29 years the glue probably isn't nearly as strong as it was when new. So I should just be able to pull straight up on the neck board and it should disconnect from the CRT base? I obviously don't want to damage anything or break the CRT.
  11. Strange question today... I found someone who can recap my Classic's analog board. I noticed there is a little bit of hot glue keeping the neck board connected to the CRT base. They suggested I could use some rubbing alcohol to dissolve the hot glue, so I don't have to worry about using a box cutting knife to cut through the glue. Does this work well? Could it damage anything? I'm assuming I just take a cotton swab or Q-tip and douse it in the rubbing alcohol, then rub it on the glue? When removing the neck board, should it just pull on off?
  12. I still use an iPhone 6s on a daily basis. I've been thinking about possibly upgrading to the SE (2) and letting my dad use the 6s to replace his cheap/flaky Motorola Android, but I don't know. The 6s is still a really competent phone... I'd say it's probably the best phone I've owned. But that bar is pretty low considering I used to use cheap Android phones. After a year and half of using it, it's still snappy and works almost as well as the day I bought it. Mine has 32GB storage and I've never filled it up. About the only problem is it drops calls from time to time, but I don't know if that'
  13. I knew that machine looked familiar because I remember the Micah sticker on the front. It showed up for sale a while back, but if I remember it was out of my price range. (Though not badly priced for a 128k/512k machine.) Plus I wanted something a little bit newer to start my collection with. I haven't really heard of Micah or APS, so I'm not sure of their history. Though I am a Missouri native - born, raised and still live in Central Missouri.
  14. @TAinKC I looked at your username - do you happen to live in the Kansas City area? I remember someone had one of those Micah Macs up for sale here in Jefferson City a while back but I passed on it.
  15. In the photos I took of the machine before reassembling it last Friday, none of the electrolytic capacitors appear to be domed or leaking. Obviously, that doesn't mean anything. If the caps are not causing the issue, what else could be causing the issue? My electronics troubleshooting skills is near zero...
  16. Should simply having the analog board bring the machine back from the dead? When I got the LB recapped, I was considering also having the AB recapped. But I decided against it because it wasn't showing any signs of failure, and I wanted to avoid/put off having to mess with the AB because of the risks of removing the neck board. (Am I being too anxious over the neck board?) On a silver lining, recapping the AB would mean that this machine is 100% recapped... nothing to worry about. While I don't believe it is an issue on these "newer" compact Mac models, no more paper/RIFA/filter ca
  17. That was precisely my speculation, but unfortunately I don't have a multimeter to test any voltages on this machine. My guess is that there simply isn't enough voltage for the hard drive to spin up. When I boot into the ROM operating system and insert a floppy, the drive's current brings down the voltage and crashes the machine. Then, as the machine tries to eject the floppies on boot, it brings down the voltages again causing the machine to reset, rinse and repeat until you break the cycle by turning the machine off. The logic board in this machine was very recently recapped. In f
  18. I will try to remove the anode cap by hand once I can cobble together a tool to discharge the CRT. An flathead screwdriver (with an insulated handle) and an alligator clip running from the screwdriver to the metal chassis should be sufficient to discharge the CRT, correct? (That's what I've seen in almost every video showing someone discharging a CRT.) I'm assuming it's crucial to remove the logic board from the computer before doing any work on the CRT. As mentioned, I'm mainly worried about the neck board and reinstalling everything. Last thing I want to do is either break the ne
  19. Thanks for the tip on the logic board molex connector. However, I normally have the computer set normally when I reinstall the logic board, so I can't really put my hand below the logic board. As for the anode cap, I always thought you could simply squeeze the fingers holding it in place from the outside. Guess I was wrong, though. Tried powering up the Classic today and it was acting up again. I was able to get it to a flashing question mark icon ... hard drive doesn't seem to spin up. (I'm assuming it isn't getting the proper voltage.) On a couple of tries the machine
  20. I already know to discharge it at the anode cap. I've heard most CRTs from this era (should say the driving circuitry) are pretty good about discharging the CRT itself, but never a good idea to rely on that. When reinstalling the logic board in this machine, I was careful to keep my hands in the bottom part of the machine. The biggest problem for me is plugging in the molex plug coming from the analog board... sometimes I have to put a little bit of force on it to get it to snap into place properly, which makes me worry whether I'm putting too much force on the connector/board. As for
  21. Thanks. I'll find a video on the suction cap... I've seen some 8-bit Guy videos where does it but it's been a while. I'm mostly concerned about the neck board, given that the neck is the weakest part of the tube and thus the most prone to breaking. I recall seeing what appears to be hot glue around the area the neck board connects to the tube. Would I need to do anything with that prior to attempting to remove the board? Also, how much force does it take to remove the neck board? This computer (as far as I know) has never been serviced before I purchased it, so it's li
  22. Ever since I received and installed my freshly-recapped logic board for my 1991 Macintosh Classic, the machine has been reliable and working wonderfully. (Besides the 1-2 minute delays on startup, where it displays a pattern on the screen. It supposedly is something related to the ROM.) I should say the machine was working great... until tonight. One of my fears was finally realized: the analog board is obviously going to need to be recapped soon. (Although I knew it was going to happen at some point, I was going to procrastinate on it.) Upon starting the machine tonight, it took a
  23. That machine has came a long ways. Great job on the restoration!
  24. I think you're the one who responded to my comment on the System 7 arcade cabinet Reddit thread. (I celebrated my Reddit "cake day" yesterday.) As for the topic at hand, I would recap the analog board but I really don't like the idea of removing the analog board. The board itself doesn't worry me, but I'm mostly worried that I may accidentally damage/destroy the CRT during the removal or re-installation process.
  25. Yikes! That machine looks like it has seen better days. Good luck trying to revive it
  • Create New...