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Everything posted by Alex

  1. Someone here mentioned an Asante AppleTalk Ethernet bridge. Search "localtalk ethernet bridge" on YouTube for a few more videos or google the same.
  2. If you have other compatible AppleShare capable Macs computers then AppleShare alone should be enough. The reason I prefer to install an FTP server is that it allows *any* client to connect, all the way up to the latest Mac/PC/Linux OSs etc because FTP clients allow for a vanilla FTP connection without SSH/SSL. So having an old Mac assume the role of an FTP server allows anyone to connect to it. Of course you wouldn't need or want to port forward because I am mentioning this from the perspective of the LAN. Connecting to the server would require only the local IP address the Mac is serving fro
  3. If you have the network issue resolved (sorry I only skimmed this thread). Install and run an FTP server on the Q800 — you can then move any files back and forth from any Mac/PC or whatever.
  4. Hello I will list off random things you can try, none of these suggestions are in a particular order so I suggest you read them first and decide which is the least disruptive. So things like resetting PRAM or NVRAM are quick. Ping can be quick as well to check for time outs etc. *** Is the download speed drop isolated to the SE or do other computers downloading from FTP also suffer a similar fate? Since this began to occur have you changed any of the files or added any new extensions etc to the SE System Folder? Is the SE provided a s
  5. Look for any debris that might be contributing to a short somewhere. Check all the solder joints that you've reworked or had to solder in. Check if no solder might have splattered where it shouldn't have but yes, double check your work.
  6. Thank you for sharing this and for the reply. The machine looks marvelous. Good job!
  7. Good grief! One never knows the gems that come out of these conversations. Thank you 360alaska! Downloading your share and I will add those missing schematics to my share incase.
  8. Here are bunch of schematics, none of them unique. BOMARC included. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VnDnfgf92viDq2Tl_wLvxx8I7tTjl89K?usp=sharing
  9. How did you end up adjusting the hinges to loosen the grip. This is what I understand you did.
  10. Not yet but I did ordered SuperLube 51010. Because I have so many other things on the go the package of Superlube remains unopened. I think about the project a few times a week so I know I have to get to it. I am privy to this post and once I get back to it I will absolutely update the progress here. It won't be soon but it will happen.
  11. What happens if you put back the original drive?
  12. How does the CRT perform pre and post recap?
  13. Everything you need is on the macintoshgarden with the added bonus of no pay wall nor login crews ever being necessary. Glad you sorted your issue.
  14. Information offered by @trag, @ScutBoy and @JustG should be on a wiki. Not to derail the topic but is the wiki still live and updated?
  15. Short comment, as per this shot. I have an iMac G3 and the metal chassis suffered a similar fate. I would clean it with some vinegar and with extremely fine sand paper (the kind that you can work with when wet) — sand and sand until all that rust is gone and then you can spray paint that part. I did this and it turned out really well. Considering how it looks, I doubt there is anything to lose. Cheers! —Alex
  16. A really unusual logic board cleaning process. WD40? Please consider viewing to evaluate if this process helps in your situation. I wanted to introduce you to a really unusual process of cleaning a board, I have never tried it but it's presented here in this video. It involves using WD40 (I told you it was unusual) on the board to clean it. Of course if you do this you will have to really do some serious post clean up. It was a while since I watch this video but when I saw your post I immediately remembered this video.
  17. Here is what you can expect, Video Chapters 0:00 — Intro 2:19 — Capacitor Locations 4:41 — Capacitor Replacement 14:18 — Microscope view 18:55 — Lifting head for cleaning 21:13 — Protective yellow plastic disk 22:37 — Metal Mounting Bracket 24:31 — Ribbon Cable Types (stripe color) 26:20 — Disk Ejection Woe 26:57 — Cleaning & Lube 30:11 — Sliding smooth with KURE 5-56 (WD-40) 34:22 — Plastic Gearbox Disassembly 37:43 — Gear that usually breaks 40:31 — Microscope view of Gears 47:06 — Head Assembly Removal for lubrication 52:02 — SuperLube Grease & Oil
  18. It would appear that you isolated far enough to see a question mark so it is promising but testing might prove more difficult without diskettes. I am no expert re the Classic but I have some questions about the hard disk. Does it sound normal to you? Does it appear to make attempts to start up from the HD? The solid grey screen would tell me (no expert remember) that it might be trying to boot from the HD but gets stuck somewhere and as far as it gets, the flashing disk icon would not apply. Try any diskette, even if there is no OS on it. It would
  19. Read all about it. It's a bug and there is a fix. https://archive.org/details/macos_8_2020_bug
  20. Disconnect as many internal devices as you can. Power up with a minimal hardware configuration. So remove HD, remove CD/DVD, airport, RAM (unless you need one stick to detect the chime), remove the graphics card. So the idea is to minimize the config to isolate to a particular internal device. If power remains on with these devices disconnected look for any debris in the connection points, RAM slots, PCI slots, anything and clean them up. Clean anything that looks dirty or corroded. Scan the logic board with your eyes, looking for anything corroded or suspicious. So if
  21. If a board is swapped, the same serial number is burned in by whoever services them (AASP or ARS). My recollection tells me that serial numbers won't change even if a board is replaced as part of a repair or some other repair extension program. I am not so sure though, I tend to believe the same serial would be burned into the new board to keep the serial on the back of the machine or wherever it is to match the About this Mac window. If you contact an AASP they should be able to tell you (they are usually less cranky then Apple about reveal silly little things like that). From a practical per
  22. Also check http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html It claims my iMac was assembled in Cork, Ireland but I can assure that it was not. I worked at Apple Cork at the time and it was not assembled there. It was in another country in the EU. I am almost certain but this was in 2011.
  23. XB also claims a USA assembly, see https://igotoffer.com/apple/apple-serial-number-why-is-it-important
  24. Not sure if this helps or if it's even accurate: https://www.stijit.com/web-tips/macbook-serial-number-meaning. It's certainly not a PMG4 so it could be a miss. Country of macbook production Starting from 2010 and onwards in later models the first three characters define the factory where the macbook was made: FC – Fountain, Colorado, USA F – Fremont, California, USA XA, XB, QP, G8 – USA
  25. See if it's even here: https://checkcoverage.apple.com
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