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BadGoldEagle

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About BadGoldEagle

  • Birthday 04/18/1996

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXC7eF1qRzavpcrWPjtG2gA

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany - Stuttgart
  • Interests
    Compact Macs and post 1998 Macs (PPC and Intel)

Profile Fields

  • OCCUPATION
    Automotive Engineer

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2292 profile views
  1. It's necro-post time! (again) Take a look at this: https://modelrail.otenko.com/retro/power-mac-6100-66-dos-compatible-midi-out Shoutout to modelrail.otenko for the detective work!
  2. @Concorde1993 They're the same. The 9150 also uses it. YES. IT WILL FAIL IF HANDLED BADLY. My suggestion (if yours is still working) is to use a power strip with a switch. Plug everything in and then switch it on. TBH I'd recommend this for every computer that doesn't have a real power switch (e.g. the original Mac Pro). @markfendley I wish you good luck! There's one suspect looking MOSFET on the first board (the one with AC on it), but I doubt it has to do with the 5V rail. In any case, I wouldn't try to fix it myself (I got shocked enough by it
  3. AFAIK midi never leaves the daughterboard. I was searching a while back what the CT2501's pinout was but it's not available. You basically need a real ("PC") SB16 with the same chip and trace the signal back from the port. I guess it should be possible to modify the original bracket. Although building a replica board is simple (it's basically a pass through), making a bracket is not... We could make plastic braces to help join the two (and relieve some of the stress put on the DB26).
  4. I know the joystick port works but I thought they left out midi? What kind of cable did you use to get it working? Also, if you have one of those adapter boards (for the Quadra 700/9x0s), would you mind measuring it for me? I was trying at some point to design a new one (with a 2.5mm midi jack connected to the midi out pin of the ct2501). Width should be all right but I need to know the exact length. Also, what a great guide! I didn’t even know about the Orange 386 cards...
  5. The SE/30 was the only one to get 040 upgrades. With time and effort, it may even be possible to make the Turbo601 work with it. The Classic "I" had some 030 upgrades: https://www.micromac.com/products/compact_macs.html (BTW, they have NO stock left.) It may be possible to add a ROM card to a Classic II motherboard to be able to boot from ROM: http://www.synack.net/~bbraun/classic2.html
  6. Everything Bomarc had is already online. And there doesn't seem to be any other sources unfortunately...
  7. Sorry guys for the lack of content on the site recently (BTW thank you @ArmorAlley and @ktkm for pinging me). My PSU had a similar issue before it eventually blew up (powering a defective power supply can only damage it further): The 5V rail was completely dead (mine didn't hiss though, are you sure it's not the camera??). When connected to the Quadra, it kept power-cycling every second or so. Powering it outside the Quadra (by shorting the blue and the white cables together) kept it "stable" but the rail was still dead. I suspect some regulator on the primary "input" board is caus
  8. Wow this thread blew up all of a sudden, thanks for your interest! I have ZERO parts right now, no 9150, no Crescendo, no adapter, no HPV card. I was just wondering if this kind of setup was even possible. I have a big gap in my collection at the moment between the 950 and my G4 Quicksilver. The 9150+G3/HPV would be the ideal machine but I'm afraid it'll take years or even decades before I can piece it all together. That said, we can certainly start making some mock ups and it's only a matter of time before those flex cables crumble away.
  9. I didn't touch the connector, I don't know those CRTs well enough to play around with the pinout. I simply removed the yoke altogether on both CRTs, taking note which way the connector was pointing (roughly), and reinstalled the one that goes with the analog board on the good CRT. Some info on how to take it out (there's only one screw to loosen, try with the dead CRT first) https://oldcrap.org/2019/05/03/inside-macintosh-crt/ The part relevant for you: Then there's the adjustment. You shouldn't have to twist any of the magnets (only if the display
  10. The types @Scott Baret mentions only apply to the yoke. I've once swapped a "type B" CRT from a Classic II in a "type A" Classic. Just replace the yoke and re-do the adjustments. The neck arrangement is also pretty much standard, given that you can also use green/amber phosphor 9" from other manufacturers.
  11. Hi there, I'm just wondering if this is possible at all. I know there's an adapter for the 7100/8100 but there's no mention whether it works or not in the 9150. There seems to be some logic on the ribbon cable, so making a replica would be damn near impossible. Any ideas?
  12. You know you can swap out the yokes right? The tube itself is identical.
  13. The original housing now has four extra holes and the ATX PSU was successfully installed last Sunday. I ended up using the largest standoffs (I still need to make sure they’re not shorting against anything) and some nuts on the logicboard side. Tapping the holes won’t work here as the metal sheet is too thin (plus standoffs always have a collar). So the holes have to be 3mm wide (i.e. M3 not M2.5) to install the Bicker BEA-630. If you’re using a different PSU, YMMV. Rough measurements for the space constraints: NB: The original standoffs
  14. The drill bits arrived today and the standoffs are still in the post. I'll do the drilling and the installation this week-end. I will only be shipping boards with a few hard to find (or specific) components (live wire connector, µ-controller...). The rest will have to be bought separately (e.g. on Arrow) using the BOM I'm still concocting. It will be mounted vertically, on the wall closest to the logicboard.
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