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  1. I'm working on bombed-out SE at the moment, as well. For through-hole components whose legs were left stuck, I found that a repeated sequence of flux, solder, flux, solder, etc. would loosen them up enough in most cases. It really depends on the amount of corrosion. Also, taking a very fine point and scratching away the top layer of corrosion on a via or component hole to reveal healthier solder underneath helped where there was just too much crap for the flux to deal with. It was tedious, careful work, but it got the job done.
  2. Ouch - that's going to be a problem (and is very likely what's causing your issue). I would try to find a dead Classic or Classic II analog board and scavenge the width coil off of it. Given their age, trying to extract the ferrite core is probably too risky; replacing the whole coil would be much easier. Additionally, before attempting to turn the threaded ferrite core, you can lubricate the interior of the cylinder with a non-conductive lubricant to help loosen up the threads over a day or so. Something silicone-based would probably work fine. The problem with width coils is that over time,
  3. "Broken" like it's cracked or like it's disintegrated into little crumbly bits?
  4. Yep! That's the width coil. Edit: Also, it looks like there's some waves on the top and bottom of the image on screen. Is that just me or is the vertical a little wobbly on your screen? If it is, fixing the horizontal may even that out a bit; if it is, and getting the horizontal in line doesn't smooth that out, then you may have additional HV issues to look into. That also may just go away on its own as the CRT warms up.
  5. Oof, that's some foldover, there. Vertical looks... okay, but horizontal definitely needs some work. If you've already done what I'm about to say, go ahead and skip down to the next paragraph. The horizontal width adjustment is the potentiometer at the very top of the cluster on the back panel; adjust the pot to make the screen as wide as you can, then slowly dial it back down until the foldover goes away. If you have done that already (which I suspect you have), then there are two things that need to be addressed. Foldover (or combover) that doesn't go away after adjusting the siz
  6. Green and yellow are correct (compared to mine), but blue and red are reversed and need to be switched around. Also, I may have misinterpreted your display - it is vertically flipped, but horizontally correct. In addition to this, it is likely not a signal issue, but a geometry adjustment one. I don't have access to the adjustment diagram at the moment, but, it looks like your screen is just too tall (and can be collapsed a bit) and too narrow (and can be widened a bit). There will be dials (potentiometers) on the analog board that will allow you to make these adjustments to screen geometry.
  7. Ohhhh yeah, if they hacked up the cable, then it's definitely wrong. Not only are the vertical and horizontal reflected (meaning that the two vertical wires were flipped and then the two horizontal wires were also flipped), but the geometry is inverted as well (meaning that the flipped vertical wires are running to the horizontal signal and the flipped horizontal wires are running to the vertical signal). If you can get the case open a take a picture of the connecter that runs from the yoke (the copper coil around the neck of the CRT) to the analog board, we can probably tell you h
  8. And now I've got chimes of death out of nowhere. That's two dead IIsi's on my desk now. I quit.
  9. I've got a IIsi (not the same as the other thread of mine) that boots just fine, but has a series of this vertical lines across the screen. The board has been recapped and some traces from UE5 to UF7 that were eaten by corrosion from the nearby caps have been repaired (the lines were there prior to working on the board, however). Once booted into the OS, I get nearly identical graphical artifacting to what is shown in this thread: I know the IIsi uses the 1MB of onboard RAM as VRAM, so I'm assuming the issue lies there. Could this be an address or data line that's shorted (or a bad RAM I
  10. Well, that was a beating; fixed the shorts, but still at the same fault.
  11. RAM looks like some of the pins are shorted together, but I cannot track down where. A0, A1, and A2 are shorted to each other, as do A4, A5, A6, and A7. Would it be too farfetched to go out on a limb and assume there's a short on one of the internal planes?
  12. Removed, cleaned, and resoldered. Verified there were no shorts between pins aaannndd.... still dead, but now it boots to solid colors and the yellow/white stripes that before only briefly flashed onscreen. I know the IIsi uses the 1MB of onboard RAM for the video, could one or more of those possibly be at fault?
  13. I have no idea why I didn't include pictures to begin with, lol. And I've got the soldered on type of ROMS; I have a spare SE/30 Rom lying around that I socketed and jumpered, but still got the same result. Edit: Images were enormous; moved them offsite so the page didn't look ridiculous. Images: https://imgur.com/a/fZDWAUp
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