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Everything posted by cannfoddr

  1. @JDWI know you have a caps list for Sony power supply do you (or any one else) have a similar list for the non-Sony SE/30 supply? @Nottomhamnks:
  2. So I did my first SE/30 analog board recap this weekend - followed @JDW's video on YouTube and used his Mouser capacitor list. It all went very smoothly thanks to the excellent video. The removed caps all seemed to be in pretty good condition when I tested them with my meter. So
  3. My first ever Mac was a G4 15", I think the USB 1.0 model. I gifted it to my Niece to take to University here in the UK. I saw this as a £0.01 auction on eBay and ended up picking it up for the princely sum of £16.00. The seller contacted me to say the keyboard had gone missing so the keyboard in the photo is one of mine, but I do have a Bluetooth keyboard from this era that I think will go well. Its a pretty stock configuration with no significant wear and tear that I can see. Booted up fine and I got the CD drive to eject. I am waiting for the login password from
  4. Raster I have done all of that - see earlier in this thread, its definitely Logic Board. The problem moves with the board and the 'good' board works in the 'bad' boards chassis. Good board with boot either chassis hard disk. I have swapped ram and rom around the two boards and even used s 3rd SE 800K board I have. Its just the one SE/30 board that has the video problem. Plan of record for now, I think: Build my best possible SE/30 out of the bits that I have: Recap Analog Board Recap Sony Power Supply Find best Floppy Romin
  5. I am being ultra careful with the clips, this board has an odd mix of plastic and metal clips on the sim slots. I don't think its the Semisamac (??) problem here. I have tried all combinations of ram and rom I can thing of and always get the same issue. The interesting thing is as a final test I reconnected the hard drive and powered up. You can hear the OS loading from the hard disk (I have a video that I will add). I am still thinking some kind of logo board video problem. The first screenshot after UF8 replacement is almost exactly the same as another I saw on
  6. The diagonals are camera artefacts from my iPhone - the screen is just parallel lines in real life. Board has been fully recapped and cleaned thoroughly in IPA and dried. I have a Rominator that I can try and some new 16MB ram sticks. I have another SE/30 that runs fine without battery - I am not sure that is a requirement to boot. No PDS cards. I'll go and try the BMOW rominator and some 16MB ram. Thanks
  7. So I have some progress to report. I checked all the continuity between UF8 -> UGC -> HSYNC Pin on the main board (Pin 11) and there is continuity everywhere there should be. So I went ahead and replaced UF8 and I now have VSYNC. The picture fills the screen but is garbage: The machine still appears to startup, I get a chime and the display comes on but it distorted. So I then decided to go ahead and replace UE8. Again the machine boots and I now get a different pattern: Startup is pretty much the same as before: startu
  8. For the sound the recap and a good clean were all that was needed
  9. Sorry I meant the FDHD that writes 1.44MB PC Floppies.....my bad
  10. Just fired up my recapped SE/30 and put the network card back in. I found some diagnostics on the HD and fired these up and am getting an address error from the Hardware diagnostics. Card is using the dynaport driver but its a Shiva Access-T The drivers seem to load and the led flashes. I've cabled it up to a cat 5 connection and the light goes solid so I think its working! Unfortunately the disk image I am booting from does not have TCP loaded so I am going to wait until the BMOW ROM is installed and RASCSI is working to build a new image with TCP and do som
  11. Is it normal to have a Mac SE/30 with an 800K drive. One of My SE/30s has a PC compatible FDD which has successfully formatted and written to a 1.44MB floppy. The other won't have anything to do with the 1.44 Floppy disks and just ejects them when I try to format them. I have some old Mac disks from Ebay that I think are dead, it will read some of those and actually managed to copy some files. How hard are the FDHD drives to find?
  12. So the recap is complete. The board has had 3 days to dry out - no smell of IPA. I re-assembled everything this evening and powered on, everything seems to be working plus the sound is now working again. A complete success.
  13. So I am looking at the schematics. UF8 looks like it feeds into UG6 pins 2-8 and the VSYNC comes out of UG6 pin 14 which then connects to the PIN 11 on the Logic Board socket: So I can check continuity between the UF8 and UG6 connections and continuity between UG6 pin 14 and Pin 11 on the socket. I don't have a scope (yet) - I guess if I did I could power the board and look at the signals on these lines. Assuming I can prove continuity I guess my next best step is to replace UF8 or am I better just going there first?
  14. I was wondering if sugru would work?
  15. One of the case screws on My SE/30 is no longer biting and just goes round and round. Has anyone got a solution for this?
  16. Whilst waiting for my UF8s to arrive for the board with no V-Sync I cracked open my (mostly) working SE/30 and pulled out the logic board for its recap. This is my second attempt. It mostly went a lot smoother this time all the can capacitors off with no damaged pads using a cheap hot air station. One or two got a bit lively. I applied Kapton tape to all the potentially vulnerable plastic bits. Still had trouble with my old nemesis C2 the negative side sits on a huge bit of copper and is real pain to heat up. I got the Cap out with some difficulty but then discovered the repla
  17. I took a look at the board today and reflowed the solder on UF8 and UE8. Still no joy! I am waiting for a delivery from Mouser with replacement UE8s and UF8s so when that arrives I will swap out UF8 and see if that helps.
  18. no i turned the brightness well down - read warnings of burn in
  19. If I were to decide to replace UE8 which I understand is a 74LS166 Which of the following 2 mouser parts should I be looking at: 595-SN74LS166ADR 595-SN74LS166ANSR Both are SMD, I think not sure what the difference is?
  20. Board is re-capped (plus a trace repair to one I damage removing C2). Scrubbed, IPA soaked and dried. Unfortunately I am still looking at a horizontal line. I know its board related as another board works fine in this chassis. I am off to do some reading about UE8 as a potential cause and how I might go about diagnosing the problem.
  21. So its all back together after the recap and the IPA soak. I switched on got the chime and I can hear the had disk booting but I have still just got a single line display! I know the chassis is good - I've connected another SE/30 board and it displays fine, this board exhibits the same problem when plugged into the other chassis. Its something logic board related but now I am not sure where to start. I guess I am off to read the manuals and see what to look at next. Good news is the re-cap and trace repair seem to have worked (phew)
  22. So the last few parts turn up and I made some progress. This is my second ever trace repair, first one on a mac. Its just above C2 on the left: The whole board is now having a well earned bath in IPA after a good scrub down with an anti-static brush: I'll let it soak overnight then dry it off for a couple of days - then we will see
  23. Am in the process of doing the recap but I broke a trace (see my recap post). Have the wire for a repair but waiting for Amazon to deliver some solder mask, am going to practice my trace repair on a prototype board from another project before I move on to the mac logic board. Washing up bowl, IPA, and anti static brushes are standing by for the clean and soak.
  24. is the cable for an SE/30 - I am looking to build one of these and replace the logic board connector. Do you have a part reference for the connectors?
  25. So almost finished the recap today MOSTLY went well BUT looking at the photos above I think I damaged a trace when desoldering C2 - you can see it in the above photos. I have some thin wire and solder mask on order so I will need to fix the trace before I can replace C2. Fixing traces is well out of my comfort zone!!! I also managed to somehow re-block the hole by C2 and it was a total pain to get the solder out again - I managed in the end with an oversized solder tip and some wick but that is probably how I damaged the trace in the first place. I used 25v Tantalums
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